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Hello, I have to weld a 1911 frame is the 3.5% Nickel steel welding rod from brownells good for this? Thanks John | ||
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One of Us |
it will work OK, but use it as a last resort. You're talking about stick weld, and that is difficult for even a pro to control on a small weld. Rather if you can't do it go so someone who can do a good job with a heli-arc. (TIG). It'll only take a few second to do, the weld will be metalurgically correct, and finishing it will be 1/10 the work | |||
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one of us |
I'm not sure what they use for steel but the nickel steel rod may not blue the same.I would agree that tig would be a better way to weld. | |||
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one of us |
3.5 nickel steel works very well with a tig welder. I use it a lot for bolt handles, blues nicely, that is what Brownells recomends it for. It will work well on your 1911 also, this rod was developed for aircraft welding. Another good rod for tig welding on gun steel is Tartan. Only catch is you have to buy a minimum of 25 pounds I believe, which is kind of expensive. I split an order with another gunsmith. Now we have a "life time" supply. Craftsman | |||
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one of us |
The Brownell's nickel rod works well for tig welding. It blues very well with most caustic blue baths. At $26/lb for the 1/16 dia., it's kind of expensive. You can buy it in 1/4 lb packages, even more $$ per pound. Craftsman, that was 8# for $100 plus shipping. Have you used any yet? I did one bolt and I'm getting ready to do another. Both for the same customer and neither one gets blued so I can't tell you about that part. It does weld nice. I'm thinking 4# may go faster than you'd think if you use it for more than just gun work. Mark Pursell | |||
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one of us |
For those of us without a Tig setup, how does this rod work with OxAct torch? I'm thinking of bolt handles etc. prior to heat treating. Thanks. Jay Kolbe | |||
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one of us |
snowcat Brownell's 3.5% nickel steel rod works very well with oxy-act torch too. I used it that way on a lot of bolts and other gun parts for several years before I got a tig welder. You dont have to have the bolt re-heat treated after welding a bolt handle. Use a good heat sink for the body and lugs, set your torch pretty hot, bring the parts up to temperature as quickly as possible, then back the settings off to a light hiss and weld as normal. When finished use a small tip to heat the cocking cam to a dull red in dim light, have a can of water ready and quinch. Dont hold the bolt with your hand over the holes on the belly of the bolt. Dont ask me how I know. Mark, I knew that Tartan rod was expensive, just didnt remember the poundage. I have not hot blued anything with it either. Craftsman | |||
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One of Us |
Craftman You have a PM | |||
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one of us |
Craftsman- I really appreciate the information. Jay Kolbe Jay Kolbe | |||
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one of us |
You are welcome Craftsman | |||
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