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Horrible Ruger accuracy (help)
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I recently picked up a .300 WM and I've yet to find a load it will shoot consistently. I really like the way this rifle feels and I am considering sending it off to see if someone can make it shoot. I have tried the usual suspects of powders, bullets, factory ammo, etc. At best it does about 1.5" to 1.75" at 100 yards, even then the next group with the same ammo will be 2" plus (sometimes much worse). I am letting the barrel cool between shots and all the action screws and scope bases are tight. The trigger has been replaced by a Timney.

Heck my Guide Gun with a Leupie 2.5X Compact scope will shoot 1.5" to 1.75" at 100 yards with a Remington 405g SP running 1800 fps.

Here is a sampling of my luck with Ruger accuracy. It's not always THIS bad but yesterday was a very bad day at the range with the M77. There is no way a decent bolt gun should shoot this poorly!

Any suggestions? I really want to make her shoot as it fits me very nicely and there aren't so many left handed rifles out there! I don't mind spending the money to make it right, but I don't want to send it off only to get an inaccurate rifle back.

My Rifle


My pitiful groups
 
Posts: 498 | Location: Georgia | Registered: 13 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Matt Norman
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I'm going to assume you've cleaned the bore properly. I once obtained a rifle that had that kind of poor performance, and turned out the prior owner had been shooting a lot of cast bullets through it (a .300 Weatherby!) which required some serious cleaning.

My next step would be to check the bedding, particularly through the barrel channel.
 
Posts: 3300 | Location: Western Slope Colorado, USA | Registered: 17 August 2001Reply With Quote
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Buzz,



when you say that the 'action screws are tight'do you mean that you've tightened all off them up hard? If so, that may be the cause - I've owned a few 77's (still do) and all have been very sensitive to action screw tension - here's how I do it:

Loosen all the screws a bit, and then, starting with the front screw - about as tight as you can turn the driver by hand, back screw, not quits as tight, middle screw, just tight enough to hold the front of the trigger guard in place - tighten that one up, and I reckon it warps the action.



Bedding the action and floating the barrel might help, and it might also be worth getting the crown checked.



Also, sometimes a rifle just needs to 'settle down' - have a few shots put through it. My 270 shot like shit for the first 50 or so, then bingo! Over a short time, it started to improve. It's been consistent now for 4 years, and it doesn't get 'babied' - it's s hunting rifle, and the scars to prove it!



Hope this helps - they're great rifles, and my favourite squeeze is one in 270 which easily and consistently shoots about half MOA.



Good luck with it - I guess my username says it for me!
 
Posts: 1275 | Location: Sydney, New South Wales, Australia | Registered: 02 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Fjold
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I have that guns little brother in 7mm Rem Mag. It would shoot any load into 2-4" at 100 yards everyday. I had the action pillar bedded, the barrel floated, the trigger done and the barrel recrowned and it then shot every load into 1.5-2.5". After trying 5 different powders and 17 different bullets I finally tried the Barnes TSX 140 grainers with IMR4831 which will shoot into 1" consistently. If this bullet hadn't have worked the gun would have been rebarreled to 338 Win Mag.
 
Posts: 12821 | Location: Kentucky, USA | Registered: 30 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Quote:

Buzz,

when you say that the 'action screws are tight'do you mean that you've tightened all off them up hard? If so, that may be the cause - I've owned a few 77's (still do) and all have been very sensitive to action screw tension - here's how I do it:
Loosen all the screws a bit, and then, starting with the front screw - about as tight as you can turn the driver by hand, back screw, not quits as tight, middle screw, just tight enough to hold the front of the trigger guard in place - tighten that one up, and I reckon it warps the action.




Yeah - they are all REAL tight. I have followed your procedure and I will go back to the range with several types of factory ammo and my reloads - we shall see what happens. If that doesn't work I'll get it bedded and the crown checked. One thing I don't want to do is pay a good bit of money on smithing this rifle just to find out it still doesn't shoot well.
 
Posts: 498 | Location: Georgia | Registered: 13 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Buzz,

Same rifle (LH 300 Win 77mkII) same problem when I first started shooting this one in 2000. It was all over the place...mainly horizontal. Shot 1 would be 2 inches left of shots 2 & 3.

Trial and error has tightened it up a lot, down to shooting a little under an inch at 100.

Piller bedded with the barrel free floated except for a small pressure pad at the end of the forearm. Our friend from "down under" touched on the main factor, the front action screw. I had to play with it a bunch to get it right.

The best powder/bullet combo on paper for me has been Reloader 22 and a 180 gr Swift Scirocco. Unfortunately the Scirocco has not done well for me in the field so I'm taking another stab at making the partition shoot.

It's been a lot of work to make this thing shoot....but no one has ever said I was smart.

Good Luck!

Greg
 
Posts: 8 | Location: Orlando FL | Registered: 01 June 2003Reply With Quote
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Buzz,

One other thing, I noticed on your target that you are shooting 75 grs of RL22. When I pushed it to 77 grs it settled down a little. I'm not showing any pressure signs but move there slowly, every rifle is different.

Greg
 
Posts: 8 | Location: Orlando FL | Registered: 01 June 2003Reply With Quote
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I think rugers are known for having bad barrels, meaning not smooth inside. You might want to consider fire lapping or at least polishing the bore well. I have never lapped a bore but some people swear it will really tighten up groups. I usually polish my bore with an abrasive, non embedding bore paste, about 50 passes with that, then I follow that up with about 100 passes with flitz metal polish.
 
Posts: 215 | Registered: 22 June 2004Reply With Quote
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Quote:

The best powder/bullet combo on paper for me has been Reloader 22 and a 180 gr Swift Scirocco. Unfortunately the Scirocco has not done well for me in the field so I'm taking another stab at making the partition shoot.




I suggest you try the Nosler AccuBond. I think it may be better constructd than the Swift Scirocco. In any case, it has been a very accurate bullet for me in my .300 Weatherby -- the most accurate I've ever found for this rifle.

I've never been able to make Nosler Partitions shoot very well -- but then they're not intended to be target bullets.
 
Posts: 5883 | Location: People's Republic of Maryland | Registered: 11 March 2001Reply With Quote
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1. Krieger, Pac-Nor, Lilja, or Lothar Walther barrel.
2. Have it bedded.
3. 3.25# trigger job.
4. Lap or ream the scope rings.
5. Use a scope you know is good.
Works just about every damn time.
You can do steps 2-5, and if that doesn't turn the trick, then go to step one which is the most expensive step.
If you want a guarantee in this life, go to Midas Muffler.
Only accurate rifles are truly relaxing to shoot.
JCN
 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Buzz, if, as you say all three were 'real' tight, I can almost guarantee that it will take the rifle a while to 'settle' - that's been my experience! Be patient!

As to Ruger's having 'rough barrels', mine have all been like a mirror when I bought them, but it might help to explain my expereince of having to shoot them for a while to bring 'em into line.

If playing with the action screws gets you closer, but not quite right, get the action and about 2" of the channel bedded - I haven't had mine pillar bedded, but in your chambering it might be worth getting done.

Rugers aren't bad, they're just misunderstood!

Everyone I have spoken to about them has had success when they get the idea that a screw doesn't need 50 ft/lbs of torque!! Flick the torque wrench, and 'feel' the tension!!
 
Posts: 1275 | Location: Sydney, New South Wales, Australia | Registered: 02 May 2002Reply With Quote
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If you got the middle action screw "REAL tight" there's no friggin way the gun will shoot right . The action is likely in a terrific bind . Aren't you one of the guys that has consistent bad luck with Rugers ?
 
Posts: 1660 | Location: Gary , SD | Registered: 05 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Yeah - I've never had much luck with the Ruger M77. I took 2 of them and had them professionally bedded and it helped, but they were still a far cry from accurate. I do have to plead ignorance on the correct torque and sequence of tightening for the Ruger but now that I know, I will post the results when I go to the range again. I would be "tickled" if it was something that simple.
 
Posts: 498 | Location: Georgia | Registered: 13 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Buzz, I'm posting this to get the topic back towards the top - I want to see how things turn out, and it's already buried 3 or 4 pages.

Mate, if you'd like more info, pm me - it's easier, and I'm happy to help.
 
Posts: 1275 | Location: Sydney, New South Wales, Australia | Registered: 02 May 2002Reply With Quote
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On my last two Ruger M77 purchases, neither would shoot very well right out of the box. (Blued rifles with wood stock.) So, I decided to check the action screws. They were VERY tight from the factory. Escpecially the main action screw (the front one that pulls back/down at an angle). When I tried to unscrew the main action screw it felt like it had been screwed down with an impact wrench at the factory! That sucker was tight! I finally got it unscrewed.

I lightly sanded the barrel channel and smoothed it up a bit. I then put the action back in the stock and hand tightened the action screws. Just snug; not over doing it. (I didn't do any glass bedding or anything.) Since then both rifles shoot acceptably well. Around 1 to 1.5 inch groups at 100 yards. They might do better but I'm not the best shot in the world. (Both rifles are in .30-06)

So, you might want to check that the action screws are not TOO tight. My suspicion is that Ruger is over tightening the action screws at the factory. I'm not a gunsmith so any thoughts on this from other posters would be appreciated.

-Bob F.
 
Posts: 3485 | Location: Houston, Texas | Registered: 22 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Quote:

So, I decided to check the action screws. They were VERY tight from the factory. Escpecially the main action screw (the front one that pulls back/down at an angle). When I tried to unscrew the main action screw it felt like it had been screwed down with an impact wrench at the factory! That sucker was tight!




I had the same problem on a .223. There was a big gob of some kind of adhesive on the screw, and on top of that it was TIGHT.
 
Posts: 1246 | Location: Northern Virginia, USA | Registered: 02 June 2001Reply With Quote
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Couple of things to look at here before we get to going real radical on that rifle.
Action screws: The front angled one should be tight. The rear one should also be tight, not quite as tight as the front screw. The center screw should be just snug enough to stay in place but no more.

Now let's look at something that has not been mentioned. Try a different scope before you do anything else.
I had a Winchester M70 in 7x57 that shot patterns a shotgun would have been proud of. I tried everything, including glass bedding, free floating the barrel, trigger job ,ad nauseum. Finally, I changed the scope and went from 5" groups to most groups, depending on the bullet and load to well under 1". That was at 100 yards. Yup. It was a brand new Leupold M8-4X and it was bad.
it's just something you might want to think about.
Paul B.
 
Posts: 2814 | Location: Tucson AZ USA | Registered: 11 May 2001Reply With Quote
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Paul - Another good suggestion. I plan to take another good scope with me next trip to the range just to make sure that isn't the problem. The scope is a Leupold Vari X III that was bought used in 1991, so it has been around the block a bit; however, the last rifle the scope was mounted on did turn in some impressive groups.
 
Posts: 498 | Location: Georgia | Registered: 13 January 2002Reply With Quote
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I have all new rifles glass bedded, barrels floated and trigger lightened before even taking them for their initial trip to the range. Unless there is actually something wrong with the rifle this will leave the rest up to me to develop the best loads for it. But all the load development in the world is for nought unless the rifle is performing as it should. Even with a well functionning rifle it may take several years to find your best load. Such is the nature of accurizing a rifle. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal
 
Posts: 1866 | Location: Montreal, Canada | Registered: 01 May 2003Reply With Quote
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BTW I had an accuracy problem in my .280 (77 MK II).

Turns out that even with the recoil lug and flat behind it Acraglased, the middle and rear of the action wasn't contacting the stock evenly, so either of the rear screws could twist or flex the stock or action. Could feel it with my fingertips.

The problem went away when I Acraglased the bottom flats at the middle and rear of the receiver, as well as the trigger guard (which was functioning as a big spring to pull on the receiver).

That rifle is a 1 MOA rifle for 3 shots with reasonable handloads. My .223 -- sporter weight -- is a 3/4 MOA rifle for 5 shots with the handloads I've tried.
 
Posts: 1246 | Location: Northern Virginia, USA | Registered: 02 June 2001Reply With Quote
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buzz: if you've had trouble buy something else. in all these reply's i see 1" to 2" groups being stated. if a rifle won't shoot better than this especially after all this adjusting get rid of the crap. ive never seen a medium weight ruger rifle that would shoot. rebarrel the darn thing and you got a chance. their barrels are trash,junk,crap and ought to be used as another said "a tomatoe stake". have 12 different bolt actions and all will shoot 1/2" or less at 100 yards. from howas to remingtons. guess what? no rugers in the bunch. i don't buy junk. you don't need to spend alot of money to get a good rifle. ruger ain't it. junk,junk,junk,junk,junk!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Posts: 214 | Location: north carolina | Registered: 16 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Quote:

ive never seen a medium weight ruger rifle that would shoot.




If you'd like to, go to My Webpage and take a look. Rugers are just as accurate as any other rifle. Ruger makes some of the finest factory barrels today.
 
Posts: 619 | Registered: 14 November 2002Reply With Quote
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I have to agree with bobby - I have owned bout 6 Rugers all shot very well except a 300 WM, sold her.

My current project happens to be a Ruger M77 30-06 - all done up by Greg Tannel. (I mean EVERYTHING - single cut the threads, lugs, face, bush the pin, bolt sleves and new Krieger in a no5 SS)

Charlie Sisk builds Rugers too - he also builds some damn fine shooting guns ccuracy wise - Givin the same treatment I believe a Ruger can and often does shoot just as well as a REMchester. People love to compare a stock Ruger to a all done up Rem and then say a Ruger is a pos.

JME (just my expirence)
 
Posts: 1290 | Registered: 09 May 2004Reply With Quote
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Quote:

I have all new rifles glass bedded, barrels floated and trigger lightened before even taking them for their initial trip to the range. Unless there is actually something wrong with the rifle this will leave the rest up to me to develop the best loads for it.Cal - Montreal




I once had a varmint rifle straight out of the box that shot less than 1/2 inch groups. I didn't mess with it.

There might be some accurate Rugers out there, but they aren't exactly in favor with the accuracy gunsmiths out there. That front action screw is a bad idea that should have never happened - talk about action flex...
 
Posts: 7583 | Location: Arizona and off grid in CO | Registered: 28 July 2004Reply With Quote
<eldeguello>
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It's time for action and barrel bedding tests. Bed the action, and try the barrel both with about 20# of upward pressure in the forend channel, and if that doesn't work, try it free-floated from about 2" in front of the receiver ring.
 
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your badly informed and obviously biased. their barrels for the most part are sub-standard quality in manufacturing. real rough. some polish up and shoot. there are way too many that don't. sorry your very biased or you don't listen when you read these posts. listen to all these problems and adjusting these guys are doing to get these rifles to shoot. i guarantee if your honest, it took you a while to finally get your rugers to shoot. im sorry i feel this way but 14 of 15 rugers that have showed up at our small shooting club would not shoot without baby sitting and these 1.5" to 1.75" groups ain't shooting. after breaking in a barrel on any rifle and doing basic trigger adjusting they ought to shoot one inch groups. then with good reloading techniques you can push toward 1/2" groups and lower. the proof is from practical experience not opinion. we've had too many rebarreled to shilen, douglas,hart barrels etc. and then these rugers will shoot with anything out there. way too much tinkering for a 450.00 hunting rifle. ruger should be ashamed of that performance.
 
Posts: 214 | Location: north carolina | Registered: 16 January 2004Reply With Quote
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bobby those are some fair groups but you worked a while on those rifles to get'em to shoot. those 100 yard groups are decent groups but the 200 yard ones need work. should be able to shoot 1/2" to 3/4" on a good rifle. especially from the bag.
 
Posts: 214 | Location: north carolina | Registered: 16 January 2004Reply With Quote
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teal: i agree with you. the custom work done and a ruger will zip some darn fine groups. as good as anything. straight off the shelf, way too many shoot like crap.
 
Posts: 214 | Location: north carolina | Registered: 16 January 2004Reply With Quote
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same answer i get from my custom gun builder and gunsmith. ones who talk accuracy.
 
Posts: 214 | Location: north carolina | Registered: 16 January 2004Reply With Quote
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