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Removing Oil Staining From a Stock
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Picture of Prewar70
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I picked up a very nice '53 Superposed. Condition is excellent but it does have some oil staining around the wrist and side panels. What is the best way to draw out that oil Without affecting the original varnish finish. Staining is not bad but the longer it stays there the more likely that it will deteriorate the finish. I was told that you can put borax on the wood, place under a light bulb, and the heat will draw the oil out without harming the varnish. Sounds a little scary to me so any help would be appreciated.
 
Posts: 895 | Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota | Registered: 13 July 2004Reply With Quote
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Anything dry with a neutral PH will work, some probably better than others and everyone use to have a preferred method. Try talcum powder, corn meal, sawdust. What does help is whatever you use put it in a 180 degree oven for a half an hour to get it really dry.
 
Posts: 7774 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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Prewar70,
I do not know of any ways to effectively do it with the finish even on it. You have to get the wood bare and coat it with a mixture of Diatomaceous Earth (swimming pool filter material - also known as a whitening agent) and a carrier like alcohol or a paint thinner. It will suck the oil out.
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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I have not tried to de-oil a nice stock. Have done lots of military stuff. The most effective way is to use heat. Strip the stock. Wait until the wife is gone and use the electric stove burner. Turn on the exhaust fan. Turn the stove on high. Hold your wood close enough to get real hot but not burn. The oil will boil to the surface. Whipe it off with a paper towel. As for dark stains, you may try a little wood bleach on the stain itself after getting some oil out. I have not found that covering the wood in kitty litter and leaving it for a preiod of time to be of any use. Brownells suggests a mixture of whiting and solvent painted on the wood and left to soak up grease to be effective. Never tried it so I can't say. Sounds like it may be worth a try after the bulk of it is sweated out.

Big leson here is do not use too much oil. Certainly do not hose the action with spray oils.
 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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Whiting + solvent has been used for many years.I don't know how successful it would be to try to leave the original finish on, usually it's a refinish job.It certainly shows the evil of over oiling.The oil does over time tend to rot the wood.
 
Posts: 7636 | Registered: 10 October 2002Reply With Quote
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Brownell's books, Gunsmith Kinks have several articles on this very subject.

The one most recommended by them is Whiting and TCE solvent mixed into a paste and smeared over the affected area. (both available from Brownell"s) This WILL remove ALL the oil from the stock, including any natural oils. You can even watch it draw out the oil. If your going to do it, plan on refinishing the entire stock. It should cost you about $30 to do the job and still have plenty left for a couple more stocks.

Also diatomaceous earth IS NOT whiting. Diatomaceous earth, is also known as "oil dry" or kitty litter and is a form of clay formed from dead diatoms. Whiting is powdered limestone.
 
Posts: 1980 | Location: The Three Lower Counties (Delaware USA) | Registered: 13 September 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks to all who responded. For fear of ruining the original finish, I might try removing the buttstock and pulling some of the oil out from the inside of the stock, where the wood has not been finished. I would suspect that is where it picked up the oil anyway.
 
Posts: 895 | Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota | Registered: 13 July 2004Reply With Quote
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