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M70 conversion
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What exactly is needed to take a CRF M70 (post-64 Classic) from 30-06 to say 300 Win Mag or 300 Wby?

I have the 30-06, and I have a factory SS Classic 300 Win Mag barrel. I also have a 300 Wby magazine and follower.

Besides opening up the bolt face and the bigger parts I already have....is there anything else involved here? Anything with the extractor? Will metal have to be removed from the actual action?

I know, I know, heard it many times "sell it and buy something closer" but to be honest, prices on the NH Classics are going up, quickly, and they're not quite a dime-a-dozen anymore. I got this rifle for under 500$, I don't feel like going through the hassle of selling/shipping, then tracking down another SS Classic and paying another 250-400$ just for the rifle. Rather just hold onto this one even if it means some added cost...at least I can spread that out!


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Posts: 2287 | Location: CO | Registered: 14 December 2007Reply With Quote
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The ejector and bolt stop will have to be shortened. I would also open the loading/ejection port up to 3.600".
 
Posts: 1244 | Location: Golden, CO | Registered: 05 April 2001Reply With Quote
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The ejector and bolt stop will have to be shortened. I would also open the loading/ejection port up to 3.600".

If you go with the 300Wby or longer. For the 300 wmag you can leave it the same length. As well as the ejector & stop.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Just did some Lego-ing with the 2 rifles (CRF 30-06 and pf 300 Wby).

If there is any difference in the ejection port...I'm not seeing it so it must be very small if there is a difference (and yes the 300 Wby is a factory M70) The bolt stop also looks to be the same for both.

BUT, I do see the ejector blade would be sitting at about...the start of the belt.


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Posts: 2287 | Location: CO | Registered: 14 December 2007Reply With Quote
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I also see the possible suspect on why the 30-06 hasn't really shot well, I think there is WAY too much bedding material in front of the lug. Like a LOT, nearly 1/4" thick. Also discovered this rifle has been pillar bedded as well as glass bedded! I bought it used and saw that it was glassed but this is the first time I've taken it apart. Also came with upgraded bottom metal which is a big reason I bought it. Appears someone has put time and money into this gun and it still doesn't shoot well....probably why it was on the used rack.


If you think every possible niche has been filled already, thank a wildcatter!
 
Posts: 2287 | Location: CO | Registered: 14 December 2007Reply With Quote
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I don't understand what the thickness of the glass bedding ahead of the lug would do with the rifle not shooting. It's common practice to be the first couple of inches of barrel as support. Unless it's lifting the receiver flat behind the lug out of contact, it shouldn't matter how thick it is.

The bedding overall could be at fault, or it could just not want to shoot well.


Mark Pursell
 
Posts: 545 | Location: Liberty, MO | Registered: 21 January 2003Reply With Quote
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Mark its almost 1/4", and is creating a pivot point I never noticed before. The action does not lay flat to the stock as my other bedded rifles do. I bought this used and only took it apart a few days ago.


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Posts: 2287 | Location: CO | Registered: 14 December 2007Reply With Quote
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I meant 1/4" THICK and it goes several inches forward contacting the barrel with the stock. I'm going to figure out how to remove that so that the action is bedded only.


If you think every possible niche has been filled already, thank a wildcatter!
 
Posts: 2287 | Location: CO | Registered: 14 December 2007Reply With Quote
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magnum extractor


White Mountains Arizona
 
Posts: 2861 | Registered: 31 December 2005Reply With Quote
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