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Will epoxy firmly hold a barrel-band sling stud in place? Any particular type? Thanks. NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS. Shoot & hunt with vintage classics. | ||
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If you do a search I believe you will find that Weibe and others have had success using loc-tite. Jason "You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core." _______________________ Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt. Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure. -Jason Brown | |||
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Opinions differ greatly on this. At least one Guild member has been criticized for using Black Max, a Loctite product, to attach a bbl-band swivel base; however it's my impression that he didn't taper the inside nor did he allow the BM to cure long enough (IMO). I taper the inside to match the bbl taper, period, end of discussion. Provides a lot more surface area with the desired clearance for bonding, rather than a varying clearance that won't bond nearly as well. BM and most epoxies will release at ~300-350F, so be careful when hot-bluing after installation. IMO most any epoxy will hold better than BM but BM is a lot handier to use and will serve OK in many applications. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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JB weld works too, I know of a gun tinkerer in the nuclear industry that had a failure mechanics analysis done on this application of JB, can't remember the results but it showed that a RAMP front sight would be strongly enough attached using it. | |||
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I attached both a sling swivel and a banded front sight using JB Weld, mainly because I wanted to see how it would hold up. I tapered both pieces and expoxied them on. The barreled action was rust blued. The JB held up fine through the boiling and has held rock solid for the past 2 hunting seasons. Temp wise, JB is good for up to 500 degrees. | |||
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Any idea what temp they use to blue stainless steel? I'm having a barrel band installed on a stainless rifle that will be blued (DuLite 3-0 salts) afterward and don't want any problems. | |||
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Locktite (Blackmax) 380 will do the job. Pricy at about $25.00 an ounce. Only drawback is a short working time 60 seconds. Have your shit together. Doug Humbarger NRA Life member Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73. Yankee Station Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo. | |||
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Let me be more clear about this: the Black Max did not hold up under the recoil of a 458WM, the banded swivel base moved. Please see the caveats at the end of the above quote, IMO they are very important. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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My understanding is the most critical thing is fit. I wonder though, unless adding it after the fact and not wanting to reblue, why do it this way? isn't there a "correct" way? I'm guessing solder, or if the barrel will take it silver solder/brazing? I know that there is also the way that winchester did/maybe still does, do it on the safaris, kind of a pressed on fit with temperature variance of the parts?? can't remember for the life of me what that is called, might be the blasting rock I'm using to kill brain cells, but I was told that was how mine was installed on my mod 70 375. Red | |||
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Stainless steel bluing is around 250 degrees. Why take the chance with epoxy just have it soldered on, stainless is more difficult to solder but once you find the right type of solder it works just as good as chromoly and you wont have to worry about heat or recoil. Also shooting close to home its no big deal but in a remote location you will be worried about the stud coming loose. | |||
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For what it's worth I formulated many types of epoxy for different company's over the last 30 years as well as coatings specifically urethane . A quick cure epoxy IMO isn't the best long term stable solution for adhering parts to one another especially Metal parts . You want a slower curing chemically inert vibration resistant bond . A covalent bond Chemical& mechanical is superior to simply a chemical . However some times that's just not possible , so CLEAN areas to be joined as best as possible ,with an appropriate solvent for the materials being worked . MIX PRECISELY as directed . Allow induction time , figure before hand how parts will mate correctly for the period of time required to set . IE Tape Clamp rubber bands Etc. . A quality epoxy is far superior to the DIY Home centers as those brands are generally not specialty specific in nature . The link I posted has most every known type adhesive listed , see column at the left scroll down for type of adhesive click and you'll see more adhesives than you ever though existed . ITW Devcon and ITW Plexus products still formulates some of the BEST EPOXY made !. http://www.devcon.com/ ; | |||
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I think your best solution is to just machine it integrally with the barrel , like this: | |||
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Because I don't want to have to repolish & reblue this particular rifle. If I were starting from scratch, I would solder. NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS. Shoot & hunt with vintage classics. | |||
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Thanks Duane. I could remember it working somehow like that. I bought an unfired mod 70 safari express in 375, paid 650. it was in pristine shape other than the jackass had used pliers to jam the sling swivel in, marring up the band. I sent it off to Tom Burgess and he massaged the metal back into what it was supposed to look like, had Baiar blue it and you can't tell it was ever messed with. Red PS That integral stud is gorgeous, showoff. | |||
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