Could someone post this formula for me? Would that be inappropriate???

I came into some nitric acid for free

DeBee,

This is the formula straight from Angiers book. You will need to determine the concentration of your Nitric acid so you can adjust the amount added to the solution. If the acid is in its original container it should be listed as molarity on th elabel. It may also have the specific gravity of the solution listed as well. Angier specifies a specific gravity of 1.42 for his Nitric acid. Anyhow, here's the formula.

100 Ml water
1.8 g. copper sulphate
12.5 g. of a 29% solution of ferric chloride
7.2 g. of the Nitric acid solution
2.5 g. of a 15% solution of ethyl nitrite

Angier also states that 2.5 g. of alcohol( I would assume ethyl alcohol) can be substituted for the ethyl nitrite for a slower acting formula.

I don't know your background and I'm not trying to be pedantic, but just in case. Remember to add acid to water and not the other way around or you could be in for an unpleasent suprise. Eye and skin protection is in order when dealing with any strong acid.

I have tried this formula before and found it to be bite into steel pretty well. A bit more aggressive than the Gun Goddess solution I have. But I am by no means a rust blueing expert... only an amateur trying to get there. Hopefully some of the more experienced folk will chime in.

David-

Thank you for posting the formula and for your concern about my safety. I'm assuming full strength for the acid as it is in a brown glass stoppered lab bottle but I have no idea how old it is either.

It seems you have already done what I intendend to do, compare the C-13 formula to GunGoddess. Could you perhaps give a more detailed report? Any color difference- "bluer or blacker", more about the "bite" or etch, and whether or not you could get the rust to build up with either formula...

I am experimenting with carding wheel velocity and composition. I have a nice Gesswein nylon wheel intended for cleaning jewelry I would like to run as well as a brush from a vacuum cleaner (very fine and soft). My intention is to burnish the rust (rather than remove it totally and leave only the black "stain" as the .0025 steel wheel does). I am trying to achieve a uniform layer of black rust on the surface of the steel. Unfortunately, my buffer runs at 1750 rpm on slow and I know that carding should be at 500 or so. Am I going to have to break out my old 1/4" drill and clamp it in the vise like the old days???

Any additional insight to this fascinating topic appreciated...