How can I check the headspace on a 6.5 carcano. Is there a way to adjust the headspace on this rifle.

You can add layers of "Scotch Tape" to the case head until you can just feel the contact on closing. You are checking the headspace with
that case. If you reload or buy other brass
you will have to recheck. If you find excess headspace set your die back when resizing.
Good Luck!

The CORRECT way is to get the headspace gauges and have someone who knows how to use them check it for you.

How many layers of tape does it take? How much undersize can a piece of new brass be? If you size your case oversize as suggested, how about the next guy.

Don't phuque around with it.

quote:

How can I check the headspace on a 6.5 carcano.

WHY?

With a world full of GOOD rifles, why bother with a Carcano?

Keith

I have a safe full of accurate rifles. I got this one from my Fathers estate. I'm a retired navy Master Diver with plent of time but little money so I find entertamement where I can. I have always loved tinkering with fire arms.

Stick two pieces of you tape (sticky side)
together and mike them.
If you have more than 6 mills of headspace
fireform the cases and partiall resize.
There is no danger.
Good luck!

I have used plastic strips for gaging bearing clerance on a crank shaft. Will this work for checking head space. What is the value of mils vs thousand of an inches.

I have often thought of using "Plasti-guage" to
measure headspace, but hav never tried it.
I ment thousandths of an inch.
Also if you fire form put a light coat of oil on the case to prevent a stretch ring.
Good luck!

quote:

Originally posted by mdvjrp93:
What is the value of mils vs thousand of an inches.

1 mil" = .001" (mil means 1/1000)
1 milameter = 1/1000 Meter

quote:

Originally posted by hawkins:
Stick two pieces of you tape (sticky side)
together and mike them.
If you have more than 6 mills of headspace
fireform the cases and partiall resize.
There is no danger.
Good luck!

This theory of using tape to ascertain headspace just keeps popping up, it must have gotten started by some garage mechanic. Don't do it! There isw a correct way and this is not it, too much room for error. With plasigage, if you push the bolt in it will compress the plastic and give a false reading as will the tape method. GEEEEZ

Plasti-gague is designed to compress you measure the clearence by the width of the
plasitc. scotch tape is nearly incompresible
you add layers until you can just fel it touch.
Before you condemn the approach, when was the last time you saw set of gagues for this rifle?.
The man want's to see if his rifle is safe, you have contributed nothing.
Good luck!

aluminum foil or shim stock is a far better media for this jackleg approach .. and tape is VERY compressable, hawkins .. don't kid yourself....

but you are comparing total UNKNOWNS by taking a new case (it IS undersized, without a doubt) and trying to back into headspace ..

you have a military chamber.. its likely to be at the far end of headspace when new .. and new ammo, which WILL be smaller than the smallest headspace spec for the caliber (it has to fit in all spec chambers)

a go or no-go guage is a whoppin 30 bucks .. and this is the ONLY thing you should use to back into this with .. measure the oal of the gage, glue as many piece of shimstock on.. measure the OAL of the now bubbaed gage and test it .. repeat until it won't close..

if safety is the highest concern, 30 bucks aint gunna kill you...

if you are worried its a little long, then use necksized brass and test every case for seperation after every shot.

i can tell you this, though, EVERY factory case is going to be smaller, in length and diameter, than the smallest go gage ... cuz that's how it works .. it AINT going to be larger, or it won't fit.

As I said feel for the tape to touch not compress. As I said this will measure the headspace WITH THAT BRASS.
I have compared this method to headspace gages in my 30/06. It aint bad, and will keep him out
of trouble.
Good luck!

quote:

Originally posted by hawkins:
... when was the last time you saw set of gagues for this rifle?.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewp...productnumber=620738

Midways sells one, which means Dave Kiff makes em. Call him and get one in a week or two. No muss, no fuss.

quote:

Originally posted by hawkins:
As I said feel for the tape to touch not compress. As I said this will measure the headspace WITH THAT BRASS.

Good luck!

Whatever you are Measuring ain't headspace.

Telling me you ARE measuring headspace means that we do not share the same meaning of the term

I can afford the gage, but that will only tell me if the bolt has shifted from excessive firing. The biggest question is still unanswered. Do I have to turn the barrel to achive the proper head spacing "I think that is the problem I have". The symtoms are bright ring at rear of case, soot at the front end and primers are burned through. These are new hornday loaded rounds.If I have to turn the barrel. Can I use the gage to set the barrel to the bolt?

if you have boltlug setback, then its a wall hanger .. if you need tight headspace, it requires barrel setback and a reamer to cut a new chamber

I am still scratching my head over the plastigage idea. Plastigage is designed for a compression reading only. The minute you rotate the bolt into battery, you smeared the Plastigage and rendered it useless.

This outfit will rent you a proper headspace gauge set at a reasonable price: http://www.4-dproducts.com/dis...group=Rifle+Calibers

Jeffeosso; Headspace is the space between the case head and the breech face, hence the name.
You are confused by the practice of controlling
headspace from a datum line. In any event it is
the difference in dimension between the chamber and the case. That is what tape will measure, the headspace with that brass in that chamber.
Good luck!

quote:

Originally posted by hawkins:
Jeffeosso; Headspace is the space between the case head and the breech face, hence the name.
You are confused by the practice of controlling
headspace from a datum line. In any event it is
the difference in dimension between the chamber and the case. That is what tape will measure, the headspace with that brass in that chamber.
Good luck!

We are discussing different things then. I am discussing a gunsmithing term, which can be checked with a headspace gauge.

quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:

quote:

Originally posted by hawkins:
Jeffeosso; Headspace is the space between the case head and the breech face, hence the name.
You are confused by the practice of controlling
headspace from a datum line. In any event it is
the difference in dimension between the chamber and the case. That is what tape will measure, the headspace with that brass in that chamber.
Good luck!

We are discussing different things then. I am discussing a gunsmithing term, which can be checked with a headspace gauge.

Hawkins, if you think you are checking the headspace using a new, unfired piece of brass and getting a good measurement, then you need to measure a few pieces of brass. They are intentionally made undersize.

And, what would you think if I said you cannot measure lug setback with a tight, snug fitting headspace gauge/

This has gone way beyond me. I have gathered that if I just want to tinker then I can't break it because it is already broke. But it is not, as I suspected worth putting a lot of money into. If my rich uncle gets out of the poor house I'll rebarrel it. I think I'll try and slug the chamber to check the specs. I have never done this it could be intersting. If anyone has any sugection on this I'd be glad to hear them. If head space is the true problem I could fix that by having the barrel chamber reamed for a longer casing in the same calbier. Any thoughts?

These things do have a way of evolving.
you asked how to check headspace. that was answered.
now you give some symptoms: The bright ring
sounds like normal case stretch, as I said that
can be avoided by lightly oiling the case.
Sooty necks are not unusual, usually do to a light load and/or slkow powder. Primers "burnt through" are another issue that's alarming.
Are we talking black streaks around the primer?. Do not fire that rifle until you resolve the proble, It could be high pressure, and that rifle isn't strong and dosen't handle gas leaking very well.
Someone raised the issue of lug set back. Yoy can check for that by putting a stiff rod down the barrel and putting force on the bolt as you open it. Any indentation on the locking surface will be felt. If you have headspace fire oiled casesand dont fully resize. the barrel can be set back and rechambered, but why?.
I can add nothing more to this.
Good luck!

quote:

Originally posted by lee440:
I am still scratching my head over the plastigage idea. The minute you rotate the bolt into battery, you smeared the Plastigage and rendered it useless.

Exactly.

The plastigage ideal was just a thought. You are right you would smear the strip when the bolt was rotated close. I will be meeting with a man that has been reloading and working on guns since 1968. He will be able to tell me what is going on with the rifle. I do apperciate all the help and advice I got here. I look foward to learning from thre professional on this site. Once agin thanks!!!!!!