I use black moly grease. Just buy a can of wheel bearing grease at the auto supply store and you will have a lifetime supply.
Place a small amount on the lugs each time you clean the rifle. Put some on the bolt cocking cam also. And, if you ever take a cocking piece and shroud apart (like a M70 or a Mauser) place some grease on the mating parts, it makes the safety easier to operate.
Chances are if you do your own automotive repair, you have some moly grease in the garage.
Posts: 1055 | Location: Real Sasquatch Country!!! I Seen 'Em! | Registered: 16 January 2001
I favor a grease made with a synthetic oil. The reason is that if the gun gets cold a grease made with a mineral oil can become a solid and your gun will freeze up. This is why some greases are made from synthetic or semi synthetic oil.
I use a EP grease (grease with an extreme pressure additive), synthetic oil and moly.
If I had to give up any of those features to get a synthetic grease it would be the moly. However moly is also quite desireable.
Most stores carry a Mobil synthetic EP grease. There may be some specialty lube mfg that puts up grease in a small tube that would work also but you have to get one with a synthetic oil.
Thanks for the help folks, I have some grease here but I am not sure it is of the type you mention. Now the test is to see what grease Aussie shops sell
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002
Wasn't there a recommendation a while back that the lugs in a stainless action be "burnished" with a softer metal so it would have a better interaction with the grease?
Rob
Posts: 1694 | Location: East Coast | Registered: 06 January 2003
quote:Originally posted by Recoil Rob: Wasn't there a recommendation a while back that the lugs in a stainless action be "burnished" with a softer metal so it would have a better interaction with the grease?
Rob
That may have come from one of the smiths here who was concerned about gauling. Like Rick's suggested use Moly and an EP grease if this is your concern. Moly is a solid lubricant and will work when the grease's oil film is compressed to boundry condition.
Grease by the way is just oil held by a thickener or base as they call it just like jello holds water. When under load the base releases the oil and then in an action called reverseability it retracts the oil as the load relaxes on the surface.
quote:Originally posted by Savage 99: [QBGrease by the way is just oil held by a thickener or base as they call it just like jello holds water. When under load the base releases the oil and then in an action called reverseability it retracts the oil as the load relaxes on the surface.[/QB]
Excellent description Savage. Most people never understand that concept. This is one of the few times that I've ever heard anyone even mention that. It commonly goes unnoticed or recognized.
Posts: 1021 | Location: Prineville, OR 97754 | Registered: 14 July 2002
What I've been using on mine is just the good old Coastal Unilube high temperature wheel bearing grease I've got a tub of in the basement. Looked up its composition. The base oil is a highly paraffinic mineral oil of a high viscosity index, its viscosity falling in the upper end of the SAE 30 range. The thickener is a lithium complex soap, mostly 12-hydroxystearate (a.k.a. ricinic acid, the main fatty acid in castor oil), with some azaleate (a straight chain 9 carbon saturated fatty acid with a carboxylate at each end.) Certainly the solid particles of molybdenum disulfide would provide better lubrication under sliding friction with sustained high pressure, but the high pressure of firing lasts only a millisecond or so during which time the lugs are stationary. SAE 30 oil isn't going to squeeze out far during that time. A plain grease works fine. Moly's messy, nasty stuff.
I also use that grease as a cast bullet lube with perfect satisfaction, BTW. With a wink towards our distinguished board member who's world famous for his excellent bullet lube home-brewed from a complex recipe, I call my off-the-shelf grease "Ricochet Lube."
Posts: 424 | Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA | Registered: 28 September 2003
That grease is too heavy to use in very cold weather. The pour point of a 30W oil is zero degrees F (ASTM D-97. Wheel bearing grease is usually NLGI 3 and as stated before a grease with a synthetic oil is really what should be used. While your grease would work fine on the lugs sure enough someone will put it on the treads on a firing pin and it may freeze in sub zero weather.
The camming surfaces of a bolt and the cam on the firing pin are a good application for moly. Just don't get it on your shirt. The rifle will thank you for the moly, your shirt will not.
You're welcome to keep that cold weather, 99. I just finished walking the dog here in my shirtsleeves. It's a gorgeous sunny, breezy, slightly cool afternoon.
Posts: 424 | Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA | Registered: 28 September 2003
I've been using plain old milsurp LSA since my days in Vietnam. Seems to work in every application I've tried so far although I will admit I've not had the good fortune to try in real cold country. BTW, shot ducks this AM down at the river mouth (ten minute drive), it was in the low fiftys, damn near froze my ass off.
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002
I've been using LSA since the early '80s. I notice that it tends to dry into a soapy sort of solid. Wonder if that's responsible for the shallow primer dents my M77 (of early 80s vintage, long lubed probably overgenerously with LSA) is making? I'm going to soak that bolt in a degreasing solvent for a while and see what it does.
Posts: 424 | Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA | Registered: 28 September 2003