Don't like '94s? Bugger off!

So far, I have relieved the barrel bands, by filing the insides of each, until there is slight movement indicating no barrel pressure. I did the same for the forend, removing wood with sand paper wrapped around a dowell until it had slight movement and no binding. The results were no more climbing bullet patterns, and generally the ability to shoot 1.5" groups at will.
I even pulled off a .75" group one day with peep sight.
How about some other accuracy clues?

turn out the little screw that holds in the magazine spring plug until you can just wiggle the end of the tube against the barrel. then loctite or fingernail polish the screw so it does not back out. typically, that screw is turned hard into the little recess in the barrel, in effect giving the carbine a pressure point on a moveable tube way out on the end of the barrel. not condusive to consistency. i did all of these tricks to a 94 i once owned. very, very accurate for such a light, handy little gun. now get to handloading, if you really want to push accuracy potential - and put the .30-30 performance much closer to .300 savage ballistics. get a copy of sam fadala's book on the 94. lots of handload recipes and accuracy tips (but you already have most of those covered). fadala's loads come from other books, well-known experimenters and his own experience.

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I have Sams book, and thanks for the screw tip, I think thats in his book too, but I forgot.

Good tips and I'll try them right away. What is the name of Sam Fadala's book and where can I find a copy?

WINCHESTER'S 30-30 MODEL 94
The Rifle America Loves

By Sam Fadala

Thanks, John Y.

I have had great results glass bedding the forend and the area where it butts into the frame....Also run a bead of glass around the butt stock to frame mortise...It is tricky so first timers proceed with caution...

Here's a set of instructions on the generic steps for accurizing a lever-action rifle.
Levergun accurizing