Gang,

The Ruger (old model) Blackhawk's Base Pin is a subassembly comprised of the base pin; spring and latch which is pressure fitted into the pin's recess and is angled inward slightly to retain the latch.

To remove the spring and latch would only require the removal (by reaming) of the two indentation shoulders so that the pin may be blued to the same texture as the remainder of the unit.

Question remaining is how one would rework the assembly to retain the latch without significantly altering its existing state. I thought to take a small cold chisel and slightly round the edge and place the pin into a small block of wood and give it a couple of whacks (much as the same principal of the rivet).

Is this a sound approach or is it just not worth the effort (becuase the latch is spring loaded during this intended task {boing!} )????? TIA�

[ 05-15-2003, 18:26: Message edited by: Alex Szabo ]

Alex---

I'm not sure what you're asking....

First off the "OLD" model is a solid pin. There's no sub-assembly to it.

The "NEW" model Blackhawks have a plunger in the end of the base pin that holds the transfer bar to the rear so it doesn't hang on the firing pin.

So, what is it you want to change?

The most common alteration of the Ruger base pins is to make a new one to fit the bigger hole that had to be made in order to straighten the cylinder with the action and frame.

The base pin holes MUST be BORED to straighten them with the frame. A reamer follows the axis of the original hole and we know that hole is WRONG.

If you want to blue the original base pin, do so. Be sure to boil it at least a half hour then activate the plunger several times to flush any residual salts from the plunger recess. If you see some come out, boil it again until it's clean.

I nitre blue the pins with the plunger in place BUT!! I take great care to be sure there's nothing in the plunger hole first. I soak in actetone, dry with compressed air, then dry in a toaster oven for 20 minutes before dunking in the 600 degree nitre.

Alex--

I've never used DicroPan at all and no nothing about it.

I assume it doesn't run any higher temperature than normal bluing salts (285 to 305F).

That's what Ruger used to blue the gun to start with with no damage to the spring..... and as I said, I've nitre blued mine at 600F with the spring in it......no problems at all.

To disassemble the thing you need a tapered spike with a hole in it for the plunger. Hold the pin with the plunger up and place the spike over the plunger and inside the mouth of the pin. Hit it once with a small hammer. The plunger and spring comes right out.

Unless you're making an oversize or some kind of special pin you don't need to take it apart short of color case hardning.

Most coil springs become unusable at about 650F

[ 05-15-2003, 23:20: Message edited by: JBelk ]