I have a Model 70 Winchester, and I have need information on the proper sequence for tightening down the action screws. I know the middle one gets tightened last, and only tight enough to keep it in place, but what about the other two? Thanks for your help.

Mike,

I cannot quote you from a particular reference, but this is what I do using a Sears inch pound torque wrench.

Front screw: 65 inch pounds.
Rear screw: 55 inch pounds.
Middle screw: 25 inch pounds.

All with red lock tite and the same torque regardless of caliber. All rifles are pillar and glass bedded with floated barrels.

I may be wrong, but I have had no problems and only good successes using this method.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Sam

I tighten the front action screw slightly snug, but not tight, then tighten the tang screw also slightly snug, but not tight, (at this point you may want to drive the middle screw until you feel contact). Then, I fully tighten the front screw, tighten the tang screw to about 75% of the tightness of the front screw, and finish snugging the middle screw.

If you "romp" on the tang screw, you can actually spring the action slightly and risk cracking the wood of the stock in the tang area, neither of which are good things.

I use the exact same procedure as stoncreek. I always have the rifle standing upright on it's butt. That way the action will settle in with the recoil lug in full contact.

Mike, I would not use lock tite. I beleive the red is for locking studs and bearings. You would likely have great difficulty removing the action from the stock in the future.

What Paul said! Red would need some heat or pneumatic power quite possibly for removal. If you want a thread locker use the blue--I think it's 212, I use it so often I just grab red or blue depending, plain old super glue will work fine as well, and is removable with hand tools.
Good luck--Don