i know how to make AutoMag brass and i have the dies and a lathe set-up to make it. What i need is input from someone who's made some. what brand of brass did you start with? what cal. [ie. 308, 30/06, 270] i know it can be made from any 30/06 based brass. did you aneal[sp] after forming? before?
any pointers? or warnings?

I had a 44 auto mag for a while back in `73. I was young, dumb and tired of a gun I couldn`t just buy ammo for if I didn`t have any loaded, and data was impossible to find except for a sheet of a couple loads that came with the gun. Like the fool I am, I sold it with in a year.
I remember I cut up a pile of my dads 308 brass for the first batch of ammo and used range pick ups for the rest. I didn`t stay with just 308 and used some 243 cases also. I can`t say for certain but I think I used more Win the any other brand, I know the stuff I used of my dads was win for sure.
The gun was new when I started and needed a stout load to function. It never did loosen up much, although I only ran ~1500 rds max through it before I traded it off. I used only H110 as a powder and 180gr Sierra HPs. Don`t ask what powder charge, but it was a case full as I recall.
Sorry I can`t be more help.

I use LC 308 brass as I have a pile of it. I have the case forming dies that do the inside reameing. I haven't tried it on a lathe. I would get a pile of about the same and make them from that to try and get the same case capacity. Most of the load data I have seen lately is rather mild, just barely more than a 44 special. Once you make your brass, you can measure the water capacity then run that through quickload to estimate pressures.
I have the 44, but would like to find a 357 barrel and a spare magazine also.

the load data i have is the same that came with pistol.
24gr of H110 in Military brass and 25gr in com. for 240gr jhp. starline has ready to go brass. may try some of it. if i hear of a 357 barrel and or mag i'll pass it along.

I have an A-005xx serial numbered 44 AMP with a B&B Sales 357 AMP bbl.

For a long time I made cases from 308 LC brass ... no annealing after forming. At some point I bought a case of CDM ammo and used cases from that before retiring the gun to an honored place in the gun safe.

I'll bet I still have some unfired CDM factory ammo that I'd sell for the right price ;>

mstarling
i'm just outside of bluefield WV
drop me a email or pm

No magic loading for the .44 Automag. Just have to get the ammo hot enough to function. Slow burning powders worked best ... H110 as an example.

Lubrication of the pistol is critical. They used to provide a silicon oil that they liked. Make sure the recoil rods are tight every time you shoot it, else you'll break cocking pieces and they are not made any more.

Loading the .357 AMP is a slightly different story. Chamber depth varied some and it is possible to move the neck too far down for some pistols. This results bad head spacing and severe thrust on the bolt face. Try to fireform a case and measure the length to the should ... make sure that you never resize much shorter than that length.

Magazines are a problem ... don't load more than 4 or 5. To many rounds can cause the mags to crack at the back. They are VERY hard to repair once that happens.

DO NOT STORE the piece in the original box. The urethane foam in the box deteriorates over time and will screw up the surface finish of the firearm!!! (I found this out the hard way, but fortunately with an old cocking piece rather than the complete gun!)



Actually, in terms of using the piece ... I'd recommend against it. It is simply too valuable as a collector's item. Find a Freedom Arms, Ruger or S&W revolver to hunt with. They kill just as well and are a lot cheaper.

starline makes unprimed new brass for it