I'm in the middle of installing a swing safety on an Interarms MarkX action. So far everything is working pretty good. I cut the cocking piece at the top so the safety engages and it moves the cocking just slightly off the trigger. When I disengage the safety the cocking piece rest's on the sear and everything is as it's supposed to be.

Really the only problem I'm having is, If you wiggle the bolt handle the safety will disengage. I'm thinking that if I was to reduce the spring pressure on the bolt lock plunger, this would fix the problem.

Am I going to create any new problems by doing this? Thanks in advance.

Terry

Terry, I think the problem is that the safety lever is not going past center in the on position. You'll have to remove some material on the stop pad. It's on the lower left side. It's harder to describe than it is to see. Take the shroud off the bolt, work the safety and watch. The lever has to come far enough to the rear that the plunger engages the "on" side of the cam. Then you'll have to recut the clearance for the cocking piece.

[ 08-28-2003, 16:36: Message edited by: M Pursell ]

Additionally on some of those lever kits, there is not a flat milled on the lever. The flat engages the cocking piece and holds both together. I do agree that the lever is not going back far enough thogh, IMHO

Jim

Tc1, The lever appears to be a knock-off of the design I started in 1961,so I'll state the original design intention. The apex ( pointy vee) of the 2 radii are supposed to be past center and a vertical detent notch ground using a thin cut-off abrasive disc in the dreaded Dremel (or better if you have one)- is cut to match the past center position. Staring at the inside face of the cocking piece where the safety lever engages the cocking piece this would be at the 1: 0'clock side of this face, not angled but verical to match. properly installed the lever should cam the cocking piece back .035 to .040". When past center by that ammount the plunger , or cup if it is one of mine should be fully engaged in the bolt sleeve retaining notch, thus not subject to camming the safety off when the handle is worked.
From your excellent picture it appears that you do not have the bolt inletted into the receiver or stock enough that the bolt notch position is lined up with the plunger. If when dis-assembled the sleeve turned into the bolt,(bolt out of the receiver)sleeve lined up as if to fire and lever does turn past center,then that is your problem. Don't mess with the spring until you check this out. An easy check for complete turn to battery of the bolt is to remove rear screw of scope mount on receiver ring and see if the bolt lug ejector notch is about centered in the screw hole.
The vertical detent notch need not be very deep- just enough to hold it in position and not need a crecent wrench to pry the safety to the off position.

TC1, I hope you don't mind me piggy backing on your post about these swing safeties. I have a few questions about the installation of these safeties. I purchased a installation kit for these safeties at a gun show. All I got was a bunch of levers, the milling jig, and a dull cutter for cutting the slot for the lever. I would like to know what pieces I am missing, especially the parts that fit in the hole where the original safety used to go. I need to know the shape of these parts and how they interact with the safety / bolt sleeve notch at the back of the bolt. The levers are as cast and need to be cleaned up with a file and I assume they must be hardened since they are soft and would not wear very well. Would using Kasenit do the job?

I am hoping to do the milling on my lathe as I do not have a milling machine. Was planing to somehow mount the jig on the compound and do the milling with the cutter held in a collet. I assume the relief cut on the right side of the sleeve could be cut with carbide cutter but what about the slot for the lever? The slitting saw that came with the kit was HS steel and very dull, and I can see why after testing a sleeve with a file, and finding it fairly hard. Does one need to anneal this area of the sleeve to be able to work on it.

Is the lever screw threaded at the bottom of the hole, and is it made of a carbon steel and heat treated, or is case hardening also good for this part.

At the moment I have half dozen maybe more, Mausers that I would like to install one of these safeties on and would like to be able to do it myself. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Hart

Hey Hart, Here is a link I found, It maybe useful Mauser Safety Install On the treaded screw, mine is on threaded on the bottom.
Terry

Thanks Terry, just what I was looking for. On a 98 mauser, what keeps the plunger in the safety spindle bore from rotating so that the spring is always on top?

Wagner mentions annealing the whole shroud. If not rehardened, I would think there would be a lot of wear on the buttress threads of the bolt sleeve as the bolt is opened and closed.

Thanks again, Hart

[ 09-01-2003, 00:16: Message edited by: hart ]