I/m posting here to see what the experts think.

Yesterday I was using Fed. 200 primers for the first time in my above mentioned Savage. While testing some loads using 70 and 80 grain VLDs. Two primers were pierced. This was a 50% occurrance in the past when using PMP ammo. in this rifle only.

That's one issue. Later when firing other ammo I'd squeeze the trigger and get a load click but no bang. This happened three times out of 20 and the primers had no fireing pin impression, NONE, Zero. The second try for each that failed to fire, fired! I haven't ever taken a Savage bolt appart but will today or tomorrow.

The question is, have others had this happen and why? What was done to fix it? Just so you know I'm one of these guys who will stop the car and ask directions. roger

ROGER, i have had a simular problem. take the bolt apart make sure the firing pin is not bent.
there is a cross pin that the firing pin goes through( if some one tried to remove the cross pin with out removing the firing pin first the firing pin could be bent.) clean and polish the pin and the hole make sure there is no burs. clean the bolt sleve and, I used a doll rod with emery to clean up inside the sleve.
dave

quote:

Originally posted by bartsche:
Later when firing other ammo I'd squeeze the trigger and get a load click but no bang. This happened three times out of 20 and the primers had no fireing pin impression, NONE, Zero. The second try for each that failed to fire, fired! I haven't ever taken a Savage bolt appart but will today or tomorrow.

I think I can guess what the second problem is. Is the trigger an accutrigger? If so then I had the same thing happen when a friend's wife was shooting my 12 BVSS, she'd pull the trigger and you'd hear a click but no bang. Turns out she was just squeezing the trigger from the side but wasn't fully depressing the little tab in the middle of the trigger. The tab in the middle of the trigger is an extra safety catch and if it isn't fully depressed then it won't let the firing pin fall all the way, it'll trip and you'll hear the click but the safety catch will stop the firing pin before it strikes the primer. The only way to get it to fire after that is to re-cock the action. I'm betting that's the answer to the second problem.

I'm not familiar with that model, but if it were me, I would check firing pin protrusion. The only time I have ever pierced a primer was on a MkV Weatherby that had been reblued. The bolt had not been assembled correctly and there was excessive firing pin protrusion.

What I'm hearing makes sense. This action just came back from Savage for replacement or repair of a defective accutrigger. Thank you. roger

There was a mistake in my original post here. I put Re. 200 primers and it should have been Fed.200s roger

quote:

I think I can guess what the second problem is. Is the trigger an accutrigger? If so then I had the same thing happen when a friend's wife was shooting my 12 BVSS, she'd pull the trigger and you'd hear a click but no bang. Turns out she was just squeezing the trigger from the side but wasn't fully depressing the little tab in the middle of the trigger. The tab in the middle of the trigger is an extra safety catch and if it isn't fully depressed then it won't let the firing pin fall all the way, it'll trip and you'll hear the click but the safety catch will stop the firing pin before it strikes the primer. The only way to get it to fire after that is to re-cock the action. I'm betting that's the answer to the second problem.

That's the way the AccuTrigger on my 12BVSS has always behaved. As I've learned not to touch the trigger at all but to just put my finger on the safety lever and basically jerk it, I've gotten it to work pretty reliably. It's extremely difficult and frustrating to try to squeeze it slowly, as it's difficult to avoid touching the trigger before the safety lever's all the way down. And the safety lever takes more effort to depress than the trigger does to touch it off. The trigger's adjustable, and tightening it up might fix it, but the action's got to come out of the stock and the trigger has to have a special wrench used on it. I despise the AccuTrigger. I suppose it may be better than a conventional trigger beefed up to a 7 lb. pull or so to avoid accidental discharges, but as Savage shipped it it's a mess.

Whoever would think that having a long creepy pull before you can touch the trigger was a good idea?

And who would design an adjustable trigger that requires removing the stock? That's absurd.

quote:

Originally posted by Ricochet:
I despise the AccuTrigger. .

I won't use the verb despise but something veryyy close. roger

Here I thought I was alone.

I absolutely love the accutrigger, is there some manufacturer I'm missing that ships a nice clean 1 1/2 lb. trigger from the factory? I would say Ricchet should send his to the factory for a warranty repair. Mine has less than 1 lb. to set the safety lever, then another 3/4 lb's to fire. That's how it shipped from the factory so I haven't bothered to adjust it.

On my 12 FV it's just like a really well tuned 2 stage match trigger, which I happen to like. The initial takeup is very light and smooth, then you reach the point of the second stage and with just a little additional presure it goes bang.

Make sure you look at your technique, if you have the first pad of your finger in the center of the trigger it will never give you a problem. If you're tugging the trigger from one side, well that's just not conducive to accurate shooting.

quote:

Originally posted by browningguy:
I would say Ricchet should send his to the factory for a warranty repair.

I sent mine back to the factory and they Repaired it? and sent it back with a 4 lb setting and now click nothing? They only pay shipping one (1) way. Golly! when does the fun stop. roger

I guarantee you the "repair" consisted of taking the action out of the stock, cranking down the spring with that tool, and putting it back in. I can do that myself, and maybe I will. It's not manufactured defectively, it's just a poor design.

Yes, browningguy, if you get your finger pad right in the center and never touch the trigger, only the safety lever, it will usually work. And you will never feel the trigger until contact, which sets it off. No touching the trigger and slowly increasing pressure till a clean break. There's that long creepy pull of the safety lever with a greater effort than the trigger, just as you say you have with yours, then it shoots when you've depressed that squishy, draggy safety lever till your finger touches the trigger. It's a lame system. There's nothing "accurate" about it, it's a LawyerTrigger.

Yes, I despise it. I'd far rather have a conventional trigger, even if I had to adjust it to a bit heavier pull. But I'll put up with it and gripe about it because I don't want to spend a lot of money on replacing the trigger, even if one is available. It's a range rifle that doesn't have to be reliable, though the trigger's a nuisance. (It would be an extremely dangerous feature on a dangerous game rifle, or a defensive gun.) The rifle otherwise is very nice.