I am starting to hate red loctite, I have gotten in a number of mini 14's that the owner installed his after market parts with loctite then wondered why it costs so much to get them back off after they were installed wrong.
Why red loctite

quote:

Originally posted by Rolland:
I am starting to hate red loctite, I have gotten in a number of mini 14's that the owner installed his after market parts with loctite then wondered why it costs so much to get them back off after they were installed wrong.
Why red loctite

Sights? After market sights haven't impressed me much with precision. I had one drilled/tapped for a mount, smith told me he'd worn out two carbide taps on the stainless and wouldn't do another one.

This is off topic, but is Camp Verde still a haven for homebuilt aircraft?

All you have to do is heat it a little and it will turn to powder. I use a micro butane torch.
Trying to horse on parts that have red on them will result in frustration.

Red has its place. Most over use it. Whats worse is Rocksett.

Only place I ever use it is on a JP AR handguard nut because their instructions specifically require it...kind of a pain in the rear but I like their handguards. Butane torch or a few minutes in an oven set at 500 degrees will turn it into powder.

I also keep the tube far away from the blue loctite so as not to confuse the two accidentally. It definitely does what its designed to do.

The idea of heat did not work for me. Now...it was a barrel band sling eye that I had stretched and "smacked" in place. I used the green "wicking grade"

Couple years later, wanted to rewove it..finally put it in the lathe and turned it off.

Was it the loc tite or do you think that mechanical bond made it immoveable?

BTW...purchase of red should require a special license and permit....IMO

Several AR handguards specify it, and so do a lot of popular handgun parts and sights (Dawson Precision sights, some of the Cajun Gun Works kits with adjustable sears for example).

Scares me a little each time, particularly on sights, but I use it. And I also have used heat to release it.

I've only used green for barrel liners. Not sure, maybe it's more heat resistant than red?

I did recently buy the Orange Permatex thread locker. It's supposed to be between blue and red. It seems to be used on all my air compressor fittings from the factory. Might try it on some of these parts (for myself) and see how it holds.

The shop sees a good bit of torqued off scope base screws that we have to drill out. Mostly installed with red and not heated before attempted removal. It's the color of money for us.

I use red locktite on 6/48 and 8/40 screws when mounting scopes on my sporting rifles..I have a small butane torch that I can diret to the screw head until it shows release agents melted, keeping pressure on the srew until the stuff releases, its been working for me since the first tube of red loctite I bought many years ago..Its not a problem at all..I have done the same with most of the glass bedding products, heat works everytime, I don't know why it has not worked for some...If you use it on a barrel band or barrel band sight etc, it will leave the metal looking more or less case hardened and may need to be reblued..It may be that I usually keep pressure on the piece as Im removing it??

Duane,
I suspect you in effect welded the barrel band swivel to the barrel..I had one that Dennis did for me and I ended up leaving it on, and reblueing the barrel, used it later on another rifle..I concluded it was sorta welded on as it didn't leak andy glass or loctite, nothing!

If ya' haven't noticed, people do all sorta' things to their guns. I just had a Model 70 come in because its owner couldn't get the scope mount off. He had completely stripped out the hex for the Allen wrench, I tried gettin' a bite with a metric Allen wrench,, nope. So I milled the heads off leaving enough to get the Vice Grip on. I heated with my micro Butane torch, no smoke. I tried the heat again, nope. Don't know what had been used as an adhesive, but heat wasn't making it to give up. Ended up setting it up in the Forster jig and drilling the slugs and tapping. Who'd a thunk it! Maybe RockSet or some other crap.

Try a #15 Torx bit. Drive it in with your bench hammer. Then use the driver or a ratchet. Works about 50% of the time for us. Heat always of course.

quote:

Originally posted by slivers:
If ya' haven't noticed, people do all sorta' things to their guns. I just had a Model 70 come in because its owner couldn't get the scope mount off. He had completely stripped out the hex for the Allen wrench, I tried gettin' a bite with a metric Allen wrench,, nope. So I milled the heads off leaving enough to get the Vice Grip on. I heated with my micro Butane torch, no smoke. I tried the heat again, nope. Don't know what had been used as an adhesive, but heat wasn't making it to give up. Ended up setting it up in the Forster jig and drilling the slugs and tapping. Who'd a thunk it! Maybe RockSet or some other crap.

Ive heated the screw head red hot, drove a screw driver blade into it let it set, chuck it up in a drill press and broke it loose, carefull or you will break the screw driver..

However if the butane torch won't work, your just better off to cut it out or off in the mill..same with screw heads..At that point I take them to my gunsmith who can fix anything..