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Winchester lever action work
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My brother sold me his Win Timber Carbine in 444 for $100, because he didn't like the recoil. The action is notchy as hell. DOes anyone know of a good gunsmith who can smooth out this action? None of the 'smiths around me want to touch it because they are so complicated. Thanx
 
Posts: 258 | Location: Baltimore, Maryland US of A | Registered: 01 June 2001Reply With Quote
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Tombo: These actions have changed a lot from the originals. If you go to the Beartooth bullets forum (currently crashed) and do a search you'll find a thread on swapping out the lower tang and related parts for the original style. This of course will void all factory responsibility as you will also be removing their safety etc. It may be what you need if it can be done on your rifle. Or maybe you live with what you've got or trade it???
 
Posts: 312 | Location: B.C., Canada | Registered: 12 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Tombo,

Sometimes, the 'notchy' feeling you describe is due to grit in the action and burrs on the contact surfaces.

If you're mechanically inclined, you can disassemble the action, and flush all the parts with a degreaser (like Birchwood Casey's Gun Scrubber). At this point, you can either stone off any burrs (be careful, you ONLY want to remove the burrs, not change the geometry of the contact surfaces) or just re-apply a good teflon-based lubricant and reassemble the action.

If you don't care to disassemble the action, you should flush it with Gun Scrubber to get any grit and metal shavings out, then spray in BreakFree CLP (or a similar product).

Once, everything is back together, work the action (do not load the gun) a few hundred times to break it in.

Another choice is to send it to one of the lever-action gurus and have them do it for you.

George
 
Posts: 14623 | Location: San Antonio, TX | Registered: 22 May 2001Reply With Quote
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Yeah yeah, Lever action guru. Who are they?
 
Posts: 258 | Location: Baltimore, Maryland US of A | Registered: 01 June 2001Reply With Quote
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George is on the right track, first I would spray in plenty of that break free and work the action a few hundred times. My Marlin 45/70 is slowly getting smoother and smoother after each 100 or so cycles.
 
Posts: 7505 | Location: Australia | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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My 70's model 94 took a lot more than a few hundred cycles to smooth out, but it did, very very smooth now.
 
Posts: 872 | Location: Lindsay Ontario Canada | Registered: 14 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I agree with that "do-it-yourself" method. There are definite advantages:

no butcher to butcher up your guns screw heads

wear ( = smooth ) where its needed. Polishing will always take away "unnecessary" metal, too.

If you have a known problem area, use Rem Clean on that, good lubricants ( Break Free, FP 10 ) afterwards.

Disadvantage: parts look not polished, but have that "wear" look. I personally like my guns to look used, but not abused. I also look for that in a used gun.

Hermann
 
Posts: 828 | Location: Europe | Registered: 13 June 2001Reply With Quote
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Brockmans.....208-326-4120
 
Posts: 42180 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Thanx fellas. I appreciate the input. I really want a guru. I worked my win 94 to smoothness but the one I got from him feels like a real POS. Forget the recoil, I woulda dumped it because of the action. Now, I figure it's worth fixing though for the price.
 
Posts: 258 | Location: Baltimore, Maryland US of A | Registered: 01 June 2001Reply With Quote
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