does anybody know anything about their quality, effectiveness, etc.
i have a 458 wm, the only loads i shoot are cast, full velocity. this brake is very similar to the BOSS system.
is there another adjustable, after market brake that is better,
DOES THIS BRAKE WORK? any experiences would be appreciated thanks

I've read a couple of articles where they tested it, and it seems to work as advertised. Apparently they now have to pay a royalty to the Boss people (whoever owns Browning this week) so it works on the same principles. The heat activated glue (for want of a better word) causes me some worries though. I haven't tried one yet, but I think I may have to, on a barrel I plan to change anyway (just in case). - Dan

I have a BOSS 30-06, and really don't like it. It does deliver great accuracy. I routinely get 3/4" 5 shot groups, which is nice. It also delivers prodigious muzzle blast, and is very unpleasant to shoot. I much prefer my "Turkington" 30-06 with a 24" barrel.

denton, is this muzzle blast directly back in the face of the shooter? also, is it much louder than a regular braked rifle? does it releive recoil much. just trying to figure if this thing works or not. there is not much info on their website. though i had a magazine that is probably 10-12 years old with their advertisement.
i only shoot cast, in this 458 wm, would the cast be a problem for the adjustments?
any info would be appreciated
dan,
my cz, has a 25" bbl. i had thought about cutting it down to about 22" if it had to be
thanks halfbreed

Here is one of my late night experiments. This version has three rows of holes in the outer & inner sleeve. Simply rotate the outer sleeve a third of a turn & tighten the knurled lock ring in either the open or closed position. It works.


[ 08-13-2002, 01:52: Message edited by: Bear Claw ]

Hey BearClaw,
My smith,put a brake on my new rifle.The holes,are not in a straight line,but twist,like the twist in the barrel,It seems to me ,that,although noisey,felt recoil is much less.It's better than my other brakes.
1geejay
www.shooting-hunting.com

My smith made a break for my .585 and it has 70 x 3mm holes with four chambers and the holes are angled 20 degrees forward in an attempt to reduce noise. It is removeable and when I recieve my my rifle back from the stock maker I will reportback on performance. Some have said on this forum that the holes in my break are to small. we will see I suppose.

halfbreed -

I have Que Industries tuners on two rifles - a Model 70 Fwt in 284 and a 7-08 Model 7. Neither function as a brake, only as tuners, and, they certainly work well in that application. Neither rifle would group better than 1-1/2 to 2" with their best loads; after fiddling with the Que adjustor, they routinely go under 1", and I'm not that great a shooter. They weren't cheap, around $175 for a blued one and $200 for stainless.

Dan Belisle - The attachment method they use is a heat shrink metal ring that's integral to the device. Once it's shrunk on there, it's not coming off.

I don't know if they're around any more or not - at least I can't seem to get their website up. It says 'The QUE Industries web presence has been removed'. That can't be good. Guess I'll have to take them out of the old 'Favorites' file

FWIW - Magnaport's brake is reputed to work well, without the major blast problems associated with most aftermarket brakes.

R-WEST

IMHO the size of the individual holes do not matter. 70 3mm holes or 35 6mm holes It is the total volume of gas expanding in the chambers & released through the holes that are the determing factor. As for the holes being drilled at different angles it works like this (any firemen out there will can relate to this) on a high pressure fire hose when you spray with a fan pattern there is very little backward force (recoil) ; but as you slowly close the cone of water the backward force (recoil) is greatly increased till it is VERY hard for you to hold on to it by yourself. Its the same with angleing the holes in a brake. As far as the angles making brakes quiter; if you have to measure the difference with audio instruments & not just be able to "hear" the difference you havn't accomplished much.(smoke & mirrors)

Thanks for the info R-West. Do you shrink (ie: freeze) the barrel before you heat and install the ring? I'm curious as to the method of metal expansion/contraction used here. I've installed bearing races and such with this method, it certainly doesn't move if done right. Would the installed ring put a pressure point in the bore? - Dan

r-west, your right. que is not available on line anymore. i also did a google search. i guess this answers my question!
well now to look for another brake, i was hoping to find an adjustable one though.

halfbreed

halfbreed: I think the Que brake is in the new Brownell's catalog. It's probably available on their website.

Bear Claw,

Do you think there are enough holes in my .585 break (70x3mm)?

I will fire some shots on and off when I get it and let you know if it works ??

JD,thanks for the tip. it is in the web catalog.
am i wrong, or just not paying enough attention? but is brownells high priced.
i had it out with midway recently. bought a micrometer advertised to read to the .0000", but it only measured to .000". then i had to pay return shipping! to be reimbursed upon receival.
their customer service has been less than right.
is there any better catalogs out there?
thanks halfbreed

dan belisle

The method of attachment is quite unique. The clamp ring material acually does shrink upon heating. Some sort of plastic memory phenomenon involved. It is not like heating a bearing to get it onto a shaft. The barrel is not cooled for the installation, and I do not think that the forces involved are enough to constrict the bore any at all. It's more like heat shrink plastic tubing, all the parts are assembled in their proper locations at room temperature, THEN the heat is applied. this causes the locking band to shrink and lock everything in place. The ring is NOT reuseable, and will have to be cut off to remove the brake (just the ring, not the barrel or brake). The catch is that you must have VERY accurate measurements of the location you wish to clamp to. The clamp ring does not shrink THAT much and the wrong sized ring will not work right. Too large = not enough clamp, too small = won't fit.

Thank you for the info Vibe. This sounds like one of those modern technological miracles (it slices, it dices, and for only one dollar more you get...). I guess I'm just going to have to buy one and check it out. Thanks again - Dan

dan, come on, whats the hold-up

hurry up and let us know what is going on with this.

It's the postal services up here Halfbreed. It's summertime (well, mostly except for the occasional snowstorm), and the dog teams have a terrible time running and dragging the postal sled on the dry ground. - Dan

Hey Dan - we solved the sled problem here in Alaska with some roller blade wheels made with the precision german bearings - the dogs no longer have so much drag with the sled and normally get the mail delivered on a regular basis, other than the occassional grizzly attack or when a bunch of tourists block the trail - good luck and be sure you reinforce the sled brake system........... sorry about hijacking the thread on muzzle breaks, I could not resist this one KMule

allright now, both of yas. i don't want to hear no more about the snow, not till we get some down here anyhow. temps runnin high 90's, humidity high 90's. just don't like to get out in this weather for much of nothing.
unless yall are ready to ship some down here!

PC that should be enough but I think that the chambers created by drilling the holes toward the center of the circle (center of the brake) play a part in the equation too.

Thanks Bear Claw, my break on my .585 will be the first rifle I have had with a break. To be honest I do not know what the "chambers" are or how they were made on my break all I know is it has 4 chambers and 70x3mm holes drilled 20 degrees forward in an attempt to provide recoil reduction and combat noise.

Halfbreed, we'ed be be happy to ship you some. would that be UPS or Fedex? Weekend before last I went to visit my daughter (she lives in the mountains) and on the way I had to drive through a small blizzard to get there. On August 2. The poor farmers hereabouts are taking a real kicking though. Kmule, those sound like fine ideas. We'll just adapt the sleds, oh wait, we have to mail order the roller blades. Damn. Back to the topic, shipping to Canada being what it is, I wait until I have enough stuff to order (for me and my friends) to put the order in. It's cheaper that way. Take care - Dan