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When attaching a barrel band sling swivel do you soft solder the band to the barrel or will it hold by just locking up on the barrel taper if I drive it down pretty tight? "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading". | ||
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one of us |
I like to drill a tiny angled hole at the rear base and tap for a headless set screw (#4 or so), then put a real thin wipe of epoxy in and drive on. Set the screw and clean the barrel with acetone. The epoxy acts as a lube and lets you drive it on without damage. (Blue first). I have seen a couple of smiths use this method and it gives a good reversible job that is solid. | |||
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One of Us |
FWIW, our closest Guild smith (a Stockmaker) installs untapered bands using Black Max as the adhesive. I have confirmed this by FTF conversation with him. THEY COME LOOSE! I always, repeat always, taper the band's ID to match the barrel's taper. Since I'm not a good solderer, I use Acraglas and rough up the mating surfaces. So far, so good (knock on wood, grin). Apparently some folks gave gotten good results by using heat and cold to shrink the band onto the barrel. I'm dubious about compressing the bore at that point but apparently it doesn't seem to matter, at least not enough to make a difference. Regards, Joe __________________________ You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America! | |||
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One of Us |
i solder | |||
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One of Us |
I locate on the barrel where I want the base and then measure that diametr. I get the base a few thousanths under that dimension or thereabouts and bore it if I have to, then set the barrel up to run close at the attach point and turn it down to the diameter of the base less a few thousanths, a slip fit, and solder it on. You only need to turn enough to cover the length of the base. I use Brownell's Force 44 solder; it holds up well to hot blue, not like soft solder. (went back and corrected my "fat finger" mistakes.) Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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One of Us |
Brownells sells a paste sold that works great on those bands after cutting the taper. Don | |||
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One of Us |
I solder them but Ruger uses a set screw which seems to work. | |||
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one of us |
I solder them. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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One of Us |
I really don't want to put more heat on the barrel at this point so I think I'm going to take Art's suggestion and put a small set screw into the back of the swivel boss and let it set into a small dimple in the barrel. That should hold it without slipping. Thanks for all the suggestions, I really appreciate them. I'll probably solder next time. "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading". | |||
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one of us |
Take this from experience (unfortunately). When you fit the band and drill for the set screw, lube the band in some fashion before marking for the dimple. If you fit dry, the band will drive on slightly farther with the epoxy due to its lubricity. | |||
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