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attaching a barrel band swivel
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When attaching a barrel band sling swivel do you soft solder the band to the barrel or will it hold by just locking up on the barrel taper if I drive it down pretty tight?


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Posts: 837 | Location: Randleman, NC | Registered: 07 April 2005Reply With Quote
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I like to drill a tiny angled hole at the rear base and tap for a headless set screw (#4 or so), then put a real thin wipe of epoxy in and drive on. Set the screw and clean the barrel with acetone. The epoxy acts as a lube and lets you drive it on without damage. (Blue first). I have seen a couple of smiths use this method and it gives a good reversible job that is solid.
 
Posts: 1238 | Location: Lexington, Kentucky, USA | Registered: 04 February 2003Reply With Quote
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FWIW, our closest Guild smith (a Stockmaker) installs untapered bands using Black Max as the adhesive. I have confirmed this by FTF conversation with him.

THEY COME LOOSE!

I always, repeat always, taper the band's ID to match the barrel's taper. Since I'm not a good solderer, I use Acraglas and rough up the mating surfaces. So far, so good (knock on wood, grin).

Apparently some folks gave gotten good results by using heat and cold to shrink the band onto the barrel. I'm dubious about compressing the bore at that point but apparently it doesn't seem to matter, at least not enough to make a difference.
Regards, Joe


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Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
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i solder
 
Posts: 13465 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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I locate on the barrel where I want the base and then measure that diametr. I get the base a few thousanths under that dimension or thereabouts and bore it if I have to, then set the barrel up to run close at the attach point and turn it down to the diameter of the base less a few thousanths, a slip fit, and solder it on. You only need to turn enough to cover the length of the base. I use Brownell's Force 44 solder; it holds up well to hot blue, not like soft solder.

(went back and corrected my "fat finger" mistakes.)


Jim Kobe
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Posts: 5531 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Brownells sells a paste sold that works great on those bands after cutting the taper.
Don
 
Posts: 1085 | Location: Detroit MI | Registered: 28 March 2006Reply With Quote
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I solder them but Ruger uses a set screw which seems to work.
 
Posts: 17364 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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I solder them.


John Farner

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Posts: 2946 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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I really don't want to put more heat on the barrel at this point so I think I'm going to take Art's suggestion and put a small set screw into the back of the swivel boss and let it set into a small dimple in the barrel. That should hold it without slipping. Thanks for all the suggestions, I really appreciate them. I'll probably solder next time.


"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading".
 
Posts: 837 | Location: Randleman, NC | Registered: 07 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Take this from experience (unfortunately). When you fit the band and drill for the set screw, lube the band in some fashion before marking for the dimple. If you fit dry, the band will drive on slightly farther with the epoxy due to its lubricity.
 
Posts: 1238 | Location: Lexington, Kentucky, USA | Registered: 04 February 2003Reply With Quote
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