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Gary, You are talking apples and oranges when you refer to machine type oils and finishing oils. The oil you use on the action will ruin your wood and "oils" such as tung oil and linseed will only enhance it and protect it. I have done some refinishing of late on old pre 64 model 70's and in the checkering process I have found the wood near the action to be like mush in some places. There are some things you can do to "repair" the wood but the best thing is to keep your metal lubricants away from the stock. Chic | |||
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Dry lube works pretty good on gun metal and shouldnt hurt the wood. My dad has been wiping his guns down with good ole Hoppes #9 for years. Doesnt seem to hurt the finish a bit if a little Hoppes gets on it. | |||
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Drying oils soak in, then dry like paint (which used to contain a lot of linseed oil too BTW). I usually apply a coat of polymer car wax to my metal parts before putting the stock back on to deter rust without using alot of oil. - John | |||
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Right on Customstox, The "oils" used in wood finishing are actually various plant (and synthetic) resins, usually suspended in volatile organics (petroleum derivatives or alcohols); these evaporate and leave behind the dry resin as a sealer/finish. Machine and other oils are less volatile and would soak in and sit there, expanding and weakening the wood fibers; they also lack the resin ingredient.
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Next time try Ballistol ( http://www.klever-ballistol.de/ ), good for the steel , good for the wood , good for the leather , next time I'll try on my head in a hope it grow some hair daniel | |||
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True, the difference is vegetable (linseed) vs. petroleum oil. Thank goodness for the hardeners and resins they add to linseed. But get this , the factory-recommended stock treatment for Parker shotguns was a light rub-down with 3-in-1 oil. Go figure. | |||
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Gary, I was looking into refinishing some furniture once upon a time, and decided that I didn't know enough about the gazillions of finishes in the local paint store. I found this book to be very helpful in explaining how different finishes work, from oils to varnishes to shellac. I think of this as being a "must have" kind of book, unless you are Ray Atkinson and have already done everything (just kidding Ray ). "Understanding Wood Finishing, by Bob Flexner". www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/search-handle-form/104-1032179-5964731 | |||
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<Gary Rihn> |
Well guys, thanks for not making me look TOO bad. Like I said, I figured there would be an easy answer, I just completely missed it. Maybe sometimes I think too much... OK, back to rubbing in another coat. "Wax on..., wax off...". | ||
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******WARNING!******* Having books on furniture refinishing around the house can negatively impact your amount of free time. I recommend "Gunstock Finishing and Care" by Newell. I think most oil damage in military surplus weapons is caused by cosmoline. In sporting rifles its most likely caused by owners who are terrified at the idea of removing the stock (some rightfully so). After having the gun out in the rain, many just spray it down with WD-40 or something. In addition to putting car wax on the metal parts, I always put a coat or two of finish on all the interior surfaces of the stock and under the butplate. I still wonder why at least one gun manufacturer won't spend a few more pennies to do this. - John | |||
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Beelzebubba, I only had to intentionally screw up one refinishing project to convince my wife that I shouldn't redo furniture! I'll be ok as long as she doesn't look in the safe! | |||
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quote: You and me both buddy! "Look, they're procreating!" Tod | |||
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