ANyone offer some advice here?

I have a Kahles 3-9x42 scope on top of Ruger mounts(M77-MII)

because the mounts /rings are "fixed" ie, no lateral adjustment, I have to make up all the adjustment through the scope.
This is no big deal with image adjustable scope, but the Kahles are reticle moving. The end result is a crosshair in the upper right quadrant of my scope picture.

I've been told to adjust my scope only on 9x to mimise this and it does seem to minimise, but I like things to look and feel centred, and this scope isn't.

Am I a) doing something wrong?
b) playing with a faunicated scope?
c) Sh!t outta luck and stuck with the problem?

And before everyone jumps up and tells me I should have bought a Leopold, Whilst I don't mind the Leopolds, I love the kahles (when they're in the centre)

Thanks and regards,

karl

Hunter Down Under,

Is this an old Kahles scope? I thought pretty much all modern scopes from the cheap Far Eastern models to the top of the line European scopes now had constantly centred cross hairs?

I have a Swarovski where the cross hair increases in size as the power of the scope is changed, (I think the reticule is in the third plane rather than the first) but the reticule always stays centered.

Peter

HDA,

If it's a 1" scope, the Burris Posi-align conversion rings with offset inserts will probably do the trick. I don't think they come in 30mm though.

If it's a 30mm tube, Redfield makes some 30mm conversion rings that are windage-adjustable. Millett and Leupold conversion rings appear to be windage adjustable but I can't say for sure.

Try Brownells.

Then it's just a matter of shimming under the scope in front after your reticle is centered.

Aside from all the advise your out of luck..you have fixed intregal rings on the Ruger...

you could surface grind the action, drill and tap, reblue and mount conventional rings and basis on it that have windage and elevation..this is the proper fix.

At any rate a scope should sight in as near the scopes focal center as possible, or it will seldom hold a proper zero and then everybody will blame the gun, ammo, scope and whatever else comes to mind...but the culprit will be a scope set out of its center focal plane.

A scope should be centered in its focal plane by counting the clicks all the way and taking them back 50% or to center on both elevation and windage, then the bases ground to zero by bore sight....finish adjustment on sight in should be very minimal....this scope will maintain zero and will return to dead zero on quick detachable mounts and rings...

Ray, thanks for your advise....
Well I think I might put my Kahles on my 6.5x55 Kimber (bi-axis adjustable rings) and put the Kimber scope, whick isn't a great scope but will do until I can't afford a replacement on the .300.

Looks like being a long range session.

To all thanks for the advise.
(Damn I love this site)

I beg to differ with Ray. The Ruger rings are neither fixed nor integral- they remove quite easily.

All the rings I mentioned are specifically made to replace the factory Ruger rings.

Try shimming the mount - aluminum soda cans seem to work, they are about .003 and should give you (very roughly) about 1 moa (depending on ring spacing) for each layer.

Redfield used to make a windage adjustable mount for the Ruger. I have a set on my Ruger No.1 404 Jeffery with Kahles 4X scope. Never had any proplems.

I have a Kahles 6X scope with 26mm tube, and the reticle in it does not seem to move in the field of view. Or is it just that I have not had to make sufficient adjuistments to notice this?