Posting for Timan...

Very nice.

Doesn't he have a website? URL please if you have it.


Thanks
Terry

New Guy,

Do you know if those safeties available as separate assemblies? That is to say, can a person buy just the safety to upgrade an old Mauser?

Oh, and thanks for posting the pics, very nice!

TIA,

Bob

We've decided that is better to make the cocking peice with the solid bottom rather than use military surplus parts with the " V " notch cut in the bottom of them, which are actually desinged for use with the two stage military trigger. I have several reasons for making the cocking piece over useing military surplus.
1. It increases the overlap between the trigger and sear when the action is in the fired position, it holds the sear on the fired side of a Blackburn or other trigger, it dose not allow the sear to travel up into the v groove upon firing which in some cases can be deep enough to allow the sear to travel all the way back over the top of the trigger and back into battry with the action in the fired position which will cause the bolt to be trapped by the military v groove and the bolt will be stuck until the opperator pulls the trigger and retracts the bolt at the same time.

2. I'm also making the fireing pin, which is longer than the Standard pin and can control the fit between the two parts. Not too tight and not too loose, but just right.
If the cocking piece is loose and sloppy on the pin it will hinder the way the action recocks, it won't be smooth and the safety and trigger pull will be inconsistant, and sloppy fitting parts are a mark of a sloppy rifle and I personally do not like sloppy rifles.

3. These cocking pieces are made from 8620, this allows perfect fitting of the 3 pos. safety and then the cocking piece is heat treated and tempered.

4. I know how to make them. so why not do it.

TIMAN

Stuart,
Thanks for the info. I learn something new everyday.
I looked real close but I coouldn't see my initials on one of the pieces. You're getting me very anxious to see the finished action. Keep the updates coming.
Forrest

Yes, I will keep you posted as this all comes to fruition.
TIMAN

Timan.

Not bad for a small run of cocking pieces.

We used to use 1/2" x 7/8" rectangle sawn 8620 steel when we made our Swede speedlock cocking pieces. Had the form cutters for the Hortz mill and did them in batches of 200 at a time.
Would do the Hortz mill cuts on pieces 14" long and then resaw them to overall length +.010".
Had a spl 5C collet set up and could then run them thru the turret lathe to rough the dry fire stop, finish the stop with a .015" raduis in the corner. Then drill the two diameter hole in the cocking piece.
Then to a spl jaw in the mill to rough out the cut for the firing pin cuts, back to a lathe to rough the three grooves.
Then to the sloter to cut the relief for the firing pin to go into the cocking piece. Had to do it this way to break up the chips, otherwise they would ball up in the bottom and you had to lathe turn them out and would break more cutters that way.
Back to the lathe for the final cutter to clean up the three grooves.
Lathe turn the nose to length and dia. then cut the cam nose, final polish and heat treat.

I am thankfull we are not doing that part anymore as I had to make all the spl cutters and heattreat them in house.

Keep up the good work.

Jim Wisner
Custom Metalsmith

hey Jim,

I bought the parts you sold Jeff Pfeifer, Paul B.'s buddy in Boise. How's about making me some bottom metal for my 550 Gibbs? I had the 505 Gibbs you built him in my fat little fingers Friday afternoon. Artistry in metal does not adequately convey the quality.

Rich

Jim,
I've made a couple hundred cocking pieces to date, been using 1 1/8 dia. 8620. them milling it to a rectangle after turning a 9/16 diameter on one end which becomes the location and clamping for all the internal and external work in the end the part is held in soft jaws and milled to length and circle interp. the end of the part to .545.
Thinking about going with 4142 modified for the next run, better size choices for stock, no sawing or excessive milling. Then heat treat and temper it like we did the m-70 style there in Sturgis, fine tune it in with a surface grinder for trigger disengaugment. what do you think?
Timan

Tinman,

I really enjoy hearing you and Jim Wisner telling about the steps you go thrugh to make
parts and in your case complete action.

I know your very busy but would sure like to see more pictures of your actions in progress.

It's very fascinating to hear about and see all the work and steps to turn out your actions.

Thanks for all the pics so far.

Allen

Idaho Sharpshooter.

Sorry but I am not doing anymore Enfield guards. Jeff P posted some pics here after Paul got the barreled action last year.
I do make a Rigby Pocket Plate that will fit your newest CZ 416 toy.

quote:

I bought the parts you sold Jeff Pfeifer, Paul B.'s buddy in Boise. How's about making me some bottom metal for my 550 Gibbs? I had the 505 Gibbs you built him in my fat little fingers Friday afternoon. Artistry in metal does not adequately convey the quality.

Timan.

We were selling over 400 Swedish cocking pieces a year so I had to do production differently that you are now.

I just today priced some 4142 aneanled saw edge vs some 4140 normalized Hot Rolled. The normalized is 1.49 a pound vz 2.35 a pound for the saw edge, plus a two week wait on the saw edge.

The machineabilty of the 86L20 vs the 4140 is really not that much different unless you are using cnc machines. The good part about 4140 is the heat treating that you are aware about. You can get a good 48 - 50 RC on the cocking piece and not worry about breakage.
You might consider going to saw edge for the cocking piece. You can make a fixture plate to mount in a 5c collet that will have an offset pocket, to then lathe turn the round end and drill the hole in the part to do your indexing from. This way you could use a piece of 3/4" x 1" steel and have less machine cuts to do than the larger round stock. Surface two edges of the sawn edge to do your indexing from through out the production, untill it is time to machine the part round.

I am lucky as my main steel supplier is just 1 hour away and they have three plate saws running all the time. I stop at least once a year and buy trimmings (odds and ends) from their saws.

Jim Wisner
Custom Metalsmith

I see.
Timan

I looked at your website, but didn't see the shroud w saftey... as pictured above, or a price for it.
Or do you sell them seperate?
TIA
Glenn.