Has anyone use their spray on / bake on teflon or lacquer finishes? How do they hold up and how does it look? I would like to do the action on a 700 with this. Also, when you bake it on, is it safe to use the kitchen oven or is this stuff too toxic? Thanks
Posts: 352 | Location: NJ | Registered: 24 February 2003
I have never applied this stuff myself, but I have a Savage/Springfield 840, 3030 with the black spray on teflon. It looks real good (IMO)and it seems pretty durable. A while back I was using, I believe, G96 nitro solvent, and it did attack the finish at the ejection port. I have since gone back to Hoppes #9 Benchrest, and have had no problems with it. My gunsmith has applied some to shotguns with good results. For a cost effective way to dress up and older gun it seems to work pretty well.
Is have used their "baking lacquer" and it is not nearly as good as KG Gunkote. I think the teflon-moly is a phenolic resin based product. If so, then its base stock is the same as KG. Don't know how the moly and teflon work. Have no experience. I do know first hand that the KG product is excellent.
I have tried the bake on Teflon from Brownells and I do not like it. If you get too much on the end product looks glossy. A friend had it commercially done and it keeps chipping off. I have not heard of any that do not do that on the sharp edges. I am thoroughly unimpressed.
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001
I had a rifle commercially coated with Teflon a couple of years ago. It looked great initially but over time it has chipped off from normal use. The last straw was when I took the electicians tape off the muzzle and had the teflon come with it. I'm getting the rifle blued.
I've been applying it over a clean grit blasted surface and that is about the only way I would do it. Much better adhesion to a rough surface that will give it some bite. Shouldn't ever turn out glossy either. It will wear a bit over time, but the beauty is the touch up ability. Worn bluing isn't nearly so easily covered.
I did two old rifles for a buddy over the winter, so it is too early to tell about long-term durability. I suspect, though, that it will not do well with bumps and scrapes.
His rifles are a couple of old beaters that he uses for plinking, etc. and he could not see putting the money into reblueing them. Expectations aren't high so the results likely won't be disappointing.
Posts: 733 | Location: N. Illinois | Registered: 21 July 2002
quote:Originally posted by 308Sako: This post obviously raises the question: How to remove a teflon finish? Anyone here know te process and what to expect afterwards?
I used Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II #083-002-012 (air-dry epoxy ester paint)on a Rem 700 with blued action and stainless barrel. The action was degreased, the barrel bead-blasted. The result was very pleasing. After 5 years use the finish has started to chip off around the holes of the muzzlebrake. I'll touch it up when it becomes a bother.
Posts: 4799 | Location: Lehigh county, PA | Registered: 17 October 2002
Onefunzr2, I have a similar situation as you, a blued rem. action with a stainless barrel. The Aluma-Hyde II comes in colors, right? What color did you use? What did to you do to prepare the action for painting? Did you bead-blast it or just rough it up with fine grit sandpaper? I'm just looking to do the action in a matte black and leave the barrel stainless. How long did the Aluma-Hyde take to fully cure? If I remember correctly, the catalog says it takes about 7 days to fully cure. Is this accurate? Thanks!
Posts: 352 | Location: NJ | Registered: 24 February 2003
I don't know about other colors; my can is flat black. I did not rough up the surface of my blued action--only thoroughly degreased the exposed metal I wished to paint. My gunbuilder advised me to have the stainless barrel beadblasted for better paint adhesion. So I listened to him.
Here is the dry time instructions verbatim from the can: "dries to the touch and can be recoated in approximately one hour. The rate of cure will vary with the film thickness, temp, and humidity. Wait 24 hours or more before subjecting Aluma-hyde to handling. It continues to cure for several days."
Posts: 4799 | Location: Lehigh county, PA | Registered: 17 October 2002
I used Brownells Aerosol Matte Black Baking Lacquer on a 870 Remington a couple of years ago. It rubs/ chips off rather easily and is a little to glossy for me to be called matte. However, the shotgun looked like $@#&! before and it still looks bettter than it did.
Posts: 3114 | Location: Southern US | Registered: 21 July 2002