quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
....but then we still have those silly steps....

What's the problem turning out the steps?

Just sweep a constant radius from the last (step) parralel section @ the muzzle to the chamber (step)
paralel section & finish out W/a 1/4 turn radius.

Hey....nicely done.....I like it....Do you do that?...

If I send you a barrel will you do one for me?...please PM me a price if you do!

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:

Hey....nicely done.....I like it....Do you do that?...

If I send you a barrel will you do one for me?...please PM me a price if you do!

Dennis Olsen did it for a very reasonable fee.

I sent a drawing W/the dimensions.

I used an online calculator for radians/chords.

I measured the diameter @ the last "step" (.609" to .645") I think, & the diameter @ the sight "step" just ahead of the chamber.(.895")

Actually you use the radiai (sp?)

The difference of the 2 radiai W/the distance gives you the values to plug into the calc.

It's a looooong radius. 12'4" to be exact swept across 13" from the chamber area forward.

That is the radius that will allow the 2nd (.645 to.725")step where the taper starts on the military contour to clean up W/the least amount of stock removal.

The chamber area is cleaned up W/a 1/4 turn .090" radius although I think If I do it again I will use a 1/8 turn .180" radius.

You then turn the remaining distance to the muzzle @ the muzzle diameter, .609"in my case. The distance to the muzzle on my 23 1/4" trimmed & crowned barrel was 7 3/4". YMMV

The barrel still shoots very well. It's still the original 8X57 chamber & throat

Please note that the charge is mislabeled, it's 53.5 gr Vv N550, not 63.5 gr.

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
?...

If I send you a barrel will you do one for me?...please PM me a price if you do!

PM W/info sent

Junkie, like the barrel. Would you please pm me the info. I have a 6.5 swede I would like to have done.

Also. Reboring military barrels. Positively do not know anything about this other than the info given me by two gentlemen that rebore. Both said "no thank you" to many variables that include hard spots and inclusions that cause problems. Their main concern was returning a quality barrel to me. No info where they gained their knowledge...but I have always figured that if I am smart enough (which my wife seems to question)to ID someone with the skills to do the work, I should be smart enough to listen to them.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Just a comment on Mauser barrels; I have collected literally hundreds of them from all manufacturers and years from 1893 to 1945 over the past 35 years, and have re-barreled many of them. I have never seen a barrel that was not cut rifled, I assume by the single point method. Also, there is a good reason not to re-bore them; none of them were made from chrome moly steel, which is very strong and forgiving.

Thanks for the input.....It's always puzzled me just how hot one can load these things. I've got one in 7 X 57 now that just might be swapped for a new FWT from Douglas.....

quote:

Originally posted by Lost Oki:
Junkie, like the barrel. Would you please pm me the info. I have a 6.5 swede I would like to have done.

PM sent.

I'm not sure that the drawings will work for a Swede barrel.

Do they have similar "Step" dimensions to a 98K?

If not, I could lay out a radius that will work for your barrel if you can send me the spec's.