Gentleman, how does one make the proper taper on the i.d. of a banded front sight to match the barrel taper.

Thanks
Brett

Use a rotary tool to relieve the inner surfaces except for a "rind" of metal about .025 wide all the way around. Then use a chain saw file (round pillar #2) as big as you can find and file it to fit.........OR

You *could* heat it up and drive it on like Ruger does, but if it goes on crooked you'll have to cut it off...........OR

You could just fit it enough to get it half way on and then peen the band with a flat hammer to stretch the band to fit, then polish the planishing marks out. (Most English guns were fit this way.

Always drill a solder feed hole under the sight if you're going to solder it on.

Flux the metal before final assembly then heat and feed the solder into the feed hole while brushing the joints with more flux.

Remember that solder flows towards the heat....wave heat and brush and the solder will come to you. Make sure you see solder EVERYWHERE theres a joint, otherwise the barrel will rust under the ramp.

Dear Mr. Belk

Thanks for your thoughtfull reply. It is always a pleasure to read your posts.

How much clearance is recommended for 1) soldering 2) epoxy??

Brett

I've used the flat hammer method a couple of times, with excellent results. Of course, it is pretty low on the fun scale.

Brett--

The "clearance" is about impossible to measure. I would think the way I do it there's probably .001 to maybe .003 inside where you can't see it, but the actual joint should be as close to zero as possible. Solder will flow through a joint light won't pass through.

I second the method of expanding the band with a flat hammer. Works very well, providing the base diameter of the band is enough to allow you to get 3/8" or so of it onto the barrel. You can also drive it on as far as you can with a block of wood, then expand / size the band to allow you to rotate it to the correct spot.

Good luck,
Todd