I have a couple of ruger M-77 rifles and the scope won't stay set and after a few rounds the scope will creep forward. I have the same problem with two different M-77 rifles in different cals.
Can anyone help me with this problem?
Thanke,Dyno

I use Scotch tape. If the 77 is a .458 Win however I don't know.

Don ,
Thanks for the tip on the scotch tape.
I have had the same problem with a 338 WM and a 280 Rem. Both rifles are good shooters .

Best,Dyno

Non-hardening gasket compound will do the trick, on pretty much any recoil level. Lay it in the rings and let it get tacky, then install the scope. You can scrape off whatever gets pushed out of the rings when you tighten them. works great. - Dan

I use a small drop of clear nail polish, but first I align the scope as close as possible before I install the top rings, then I add the nails polish, and finally I double-check the scope to make sure the horizontal crosshair is level, then I tighten the screws.

Dyno,

I love the Ruger mount system and must admitt I have had no problems with them. I have used rubber cement from cycle puncture repair kits in the past to cure similar problems with other mounts though.

One thing I do find handy is to get a black permanent marker pen and put index marks on the scope and mounts. You're looking for a really fine tipped pen for best results. And don't worry a black pen will show up on a black scope. Once the scope is installed I mark a line on it tight against the front and back of one of the scope rings. Upon firing, If there is any creep in the scope, you will notice by looking at these marks.

Regards,

Peter

Peter,
Very good advice,I especially like the black line to prove that everything is staying put. I like the Ruger mounts too , I've never really had this problem with scope creep and some of the scopes on my guns have been in place since the early 60's.
I will be trying the adhesive.

Thanks,Dyno

Your rings may need lapping. Once lapped the scope will usually stay put. When scope rings are properly torqued down they usually don't slip unless they are not true to each other. The nail polish is also a good idea.

Bob ,
The lapping is another good point I had not thought of,I will look at the fit of the rings and how much grabum they have. With all the good advice I've gotten I think tomorrow I will fix
those suckers.

Thanks,Dyno

I have lots of Rugers, some of them big bores, and have never had a problem with scope slippage. I always lap the rings and that's probably why. I also replace the Ruger ring screws with Torx head screws from Brownells and tighten with a torx bit in a full size screwdriver. I think that the Ruger ring system has them all beat for sheer sturdiness!

Phil ,
It's always good to get advice from someone with first hand knoledge. Sounds to me like the lapping
the rings and Torx head screws is a great combination. The Torx head srcews are a great idea and one I have not thought of.

Thanks,Dyno

Here's another vote for the Torx head screws for the Ruger mounts! I ordered some from Brownell's and have been changing mine out the last couple of months as I find time. I lap the rings at the same time. Much easier to tighten the mounts using the Torx head screws!! No more messed up screw heads from the screwdriver slipping.

-Bob F.

Bob,
Thanks for the vote of confidence,I intend to do the same.

Best,Dyno

Incidentally, for those who may not know, you only lap the bottom half of the rings with the top halves removed. Also, lap until you have scope contact with 3/4 of the inside ring surface. If you go further, the rings may not have enough "grip" on the scope tube before the ring screws bottom out. Said another way, 1" rings may become 1" plus rings if you remove too much of the ring inner surface by excess lapping.

Good advise from Phil....I seldom lap rings and I do use rubber cement, lock tite or something gooey and sticky on big bores....

Some high dollar foriegn scopes have a teflon like dull finish on them and its bloody hell holding them short of epoxy...

I had same problem with my .458 until I reamed and lapped the rings. I only had about 25-30% contact before lapping. If the rings get too close I just remove a bit from the faces so that I have a gap with the screws nice and tight.
C.G.B.

Best thing out there, bar none, is ScotchKote. It is a honey-like substance that is used for coating electrical conductors. It cleans up with acetone and does not harm any scope finish that I have found. My .458's scope walked in it's rings even after lapping, and various other "fixes" such as friction tape and rosin. The ScotchKote can be bought for about $13 a pint at Home Depot or most any electrical supply outlet and will last forever unless you leave the top off-oops. One drop on one-half of the rings will hold anything in place. It takes long enough to set up that there is plenty of time to adjust your scope after putting everything together. To remove the scope you just remove the half of the ring not "glued" on and pop the other half off with your fingers. Again, clean up with acetone. Best thing since sliced bread.

I'll echo the ScotchKote advice! I got that tip some years ago and for the few dollars a tube it's more than worth it. I bought a tube rather than can as it's easier to dispense. An electrician told me to shake it around if it's been sitting as he thinks the solvents need to be mixed back in. I can't say one way or the other as I shake it just in case and haven't tried it after sitting a long while without.

I usually find that lapping helps a lot. If using Weaver rings, I quite often put a small piece of electrical tape in the bottom of the ring, and that usually hold the scope.