I want to build myself a rifle. Nothing fancy just a good solid hunting gun. In 7x57 or 6.5x55. On a surplus action if I can find what I want.
My question is that; I don't know a lot about mausers. What wouild be a good action and HOW do I identify it when I see it. Some of the backwoods pawnshops around here have a few sitting around still. Anyone care to recommend an action and or a book to read up on so I will know it when i see it.
I have or can bum the tooling I need. I am not in a hurry to finish. just something to work on to escape the daily grind on some evenings.
thanks;
mike

Still readily available for a reasonable price are the VZ-24 mausers if you are looking for a milsurp.

If you are looking for something a bit newer, look for a Sears Model 50 and utilize its FN action.

The VZ24 is a good action be sure and remove it from the stock as there could be significant pitting of the action below the wood line. I will probably start a war here but for the money Mark X Interarms or Parker-Hale are decent Mauser actions and you will be way ahead cost wise as there will be no need to cutoff and reweld bolt handles and they will have passable triggers and safeties. If you want to do all the work yourself it is a great project but fairly expensive by comparision.

Anything Spanish ( LaCorna ) avoid like the plague!

quote:

If you are looking for something a bit newer, look for a Sears Model 50 and utilize its FN action.

+1, you'll have less head aches and heart aches going this route; much more user friendly. Plus, IMHO, this would be a notch above the Mark X as a starting point, no offense to anyone.

Good luck.

The 1909 Mauser is an excellent action and good ones can be found sub $200 if you watch carefully. The M24 is excellent and can be sub $150. Keep in mind all of the add-ons will cost a lot more. Safety alteration, new trigger, polish/blue, drill and tap, stock, etc.

Have fun and go for it!!! I love doing it, but always spent more than my mental budget!

I still have several VZ-24 actions (and complete milsurp guns too) for $175 plus shipping.....I strip them to actions only because they are easier to ship!!! But can ship the entire gun as well. They are in 8mm Mauser (8 X 57) and I check pitting first.

This action as previously stated will make a fine 6.5 X 55 or 7 X 57 and will tolerate serious reloads as well.

My 6.5 X 55 is on one and I load 120 grain bullets to over 3,000'/sec in a 21" barrel....

As others have said the J C Higgens guns are excellent too but usually run $400 as they are usually used "as-is" in .30-06 or .270.

You can also use the M24/47 actions for those cartridges too....very fine actions but too short for .280 Rem and .270 length rounds.

I would not consider any pre-1898 Mauser for the task but others will disagree!!!

I just bought an 1916 (small ring) Mauser of pretty modern construction, on Gunbroker for $120.00. I’m very pleased with it, and even have been tempted to leave it as-is: it is chambered in 7mm Mauser (7x57mm Mauser). It is probably a “Spanish Mauserâ€. But I bought it to rebarrel in 45ACP, so I’m determined to follow through with my plans. The bold face shows it has never been fired. The barrel looks better than I expected, and I’ve not yet run brake cleaner through the barrel.

The small-ring Mausers get a lot of grief because they are missing the “third lug†on the bolt/action. The 1898 Mauser has this third lug. But as it turns out this third lug is never used during normal operation, but is only there in case the two front lugs catastrophically fail: the third lug never even bears any pressure unless the action is severely overpressurized to over 46,000 CUP.

Check these Internet sites out. Maybe buy the CD…

http://www.geocities.com/fritz125541/Unmarked1916

http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/spanishinquisition/index.asp

http://www.geocities.com/fritz125541/Spanmauhome

The only people that give the pre-98's grief for the fact they have no "safety" lug are those who obviously know nothing. The real deficiency in the pre-98's is their gas handling ability which pales in comparison to the 98. If you want a 7x57 or 6.5x55 and are content to limit loads to < 45,000 CUP, have at them. If however you want to utilize MODERN loads, get a 98 of some flavor.

A small ring Mexican 98 would be about perfect for a handly little rifle. But any 98 will allow use of Modern loads.

Guess it depends on what you want in the end and your budget. Starting with a surplus action and converting it is not a cheap deal. You will end up with more money in the action than you will spend on simply getting a nice FN action. I have FNs and old style MKXs on most of my rifles. They make excellent hunting rifles. If I was going to have a full high $ custom made I'd start with a Mil98 simply for future resale.

If all you want is a good solid hunting rifle like you say then find a MKX or FN rifle in 7x57. Restock and reblue if you want. I've never owned a MKX factory barreled action that I couldn't get to group MOA.

An option for a 6.5 x 55 is to get a Turkish K Kale action and a Swede barrel. The turk action has small ring threads and the swede does too. I picked up a turk action and a swede barrel that I plan on reaming out to 6.5 x 284 just for the want of one. The turks can be picked up fairly cheap.

Rad

The two calibers you mention were factory mauser offerings; both in military mausers.

Trying to find a 7x57might be hard, but you should be able to find a good, serviceable Swedish Mauser. This means all you must do is have it stocked, bedded, scope mounts fitted, and the barrel shortened depending upon which one you buy and your preferences.

Brazil had a 7x57 made for its service in a M95 that is really a nice rifle. Kudude

Mike (Lost Okie), I just went to AmmoGuide.com. I don’t have a Subscription, but I use their free membership, so I can’t see everything.

I found two loads pretty quickly for the 7mm Mauser which were under the 46,000 CUP pressure limit of the Spanish Mauser:

1) 100 grain Hornady bullet, 3250 feet per second, 2346 foot-pounds energy 45,600 CUP. These bullets are 2.9 inches long overall.
2) 110 grain Speer bullet, 3034 fps, 2240 ft-lbs, 45,700 CUP. A 2.98 inch long bullet.

Lost Oakie

If you decide on a milsurp don't be afraid to take Vapodog up on his offer. He is a nice guy and honest as the day is long.

Thanks for all the help guys. This gives me a good starting point. We'll see what is out there locally before I look online. Wish to avoid paperwork.
mike

Dear Lost Okie:

In my experience the South American contract rifles like the 1908 Brazilian Mauser and the 1909 Argentine Mauser are beautifully made and really versatile. Try to buy the ones made in Germany either in Berlin or Oberndorf with "Deutsche Waffen - Und Munitionsfabriken (Berlin or Oberndorf)" written on the left side of the receiver.

Also, look for matching bolt and receiver serial numbers and ideally get the one with the most parts having the same serial number. You should check for the rear of the bolt lugs impacting the front of the rear receiver bridge at the end of the thumb cut. I bought a military Brno that had this problem, and it was a pain in the ass to re-bevel the lug way on the rear receiver bridge. Moreover the bolt hung down too far at full extension, and I had to shave down the comb of the stock for clearance.

I have come full circle, and probably will use the original military trigger on my 1908 and 1909 Mausers, but I have not constructed and shot one for accuracy compared to the Timney trigger ones I have constructed in the past. Nevertheless, the original triggers, if matching with the original cocking piece, break so cleanly even at the 5.5-6.5 lb. pull weight, that I am dying to try them out in their original format.

Excellent advice quoted above on looking for pitting below the stock line and/or under the top hand guard.

Here's what I would stay away from: 1943-1945 K98k Mod. 98 German military Mausers. War time metallurgy and/or heat treating could be suspect. There is an ongoing argument about these years, but no argument about 1942 and before.

I've looked at some of the Russian capture K98k's and some look okay, and some are awful, so that's up to you.

I have found that a really well sporterized rifle can save you money, but look out for over polishing on the receiver and bolt where the sharp corners are rounded off. I have repaired some rear bridges on receivers that were over sanded, and it takes time. Also, I picked up a 1940 98k probably sporterized in the early 1960's or thereabouts, and it came with a Timney sportsman trigger installed. That old Timney trigger blows my new ones away, no comparison, it's much better. So, if you see a Mauser with a trigger with grooves on it, check it out. The military trigger is smooth.

Lastly, look at the bolt face for pitting. Too much pitting around the primer ring, run away. A little pitting is normal.

If you want any more information, please PM me.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis