I am going to start my first gunsmithing project. I am going to order a prethreaded, short chambered barrel and need to know what action I have in order to proceed.

It has the Yugoslavian crest (according to Blue Book), under the crest it has something in yugoslavian that appears to say "Model 1924". On the left side of the receiver it says... "FAB. NAT. D'ARMES de GUERRE HERSTAL-BELJIQUE"

Action hole spacing (center to center with tape measure) is about 7 5/8"
Action overall length (top) about 6 3/8"
Length from rear of front ring to rear of clip slot is about 3 3/8"
Front ring diameter looks to be 1 3/8".
I can screw the existing barrel off and its threads measures 1.1" Dia (using caliper accross the threads of the barrel)

What do I have? What do i need to specify when ordering a prethreaded barrel?

I purchased this gun cheap at a gun show. Looked like a work in progress. Has a custom varmint/target wood stock, had a 1 1/8" dia 28 inch barrel screwed into it, but its not torqued into action, has stock military trigger etc.

Any recommendations on a barrel? I am thinking pac-nor, shilen, hart etc. Would like a short chambered barrel in order to use a finish reamer to achieve proper headspace. I need to drill front receiver ring for scope base, has holes in rear ring for a target style iron sight base. Need a new trigger and I will bed the action to the stock. hoping to make a varminter/f-class style prone gun.

Any other recommendations for a novice gunsmith?

Sounds like a M24/47 large ring. These are what is referred to as "safety breeched". Don't know if you can get a pre-threaded & chambered for them. Maybe some can help us out here.

Well thats a start. I am hoping its a large ring, if thats the case i know some barrel makers make prethreaded mauser 98 barrels. I wonder if a M24/47 is the same?

Also caliber i am going to get is a 6.5x55 Swede. Good all around cartridge, a friend is going to redo a 6.5 Swede hunting gun so we are going to share a reamer. 6.5 Swede shouldn't bring any excessive pressure issues into play.

What you have is the much more rare model 24 made for yugoslavia by FN. Most were re-arsenalled into the 24/47. Very few exist in the original form.

That said, yes, it is a large ring intermediate action and as Doug said, it is a safety breeched variant. Thus, it will need an extractor groove cut.

This will give you an idea of what the others are telling you about a safety breech...Read the DISCLAIMER on page one...Hope this helps!
http://mausercentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18807
http://mausercentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18808
http://mausercentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18809
http://mausercentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18810

Hi,

You have a predecessor to the 24/47 - Yugoslavian 24s were of two types, those made in Belgium (FN) and those made in Yugoslavia on Belgian machinery. Most of both types later became the 24/47 after arsenal refurbishing. The FN made are supposed to be nicer, though both are nice enough. I have an FN 1924 Mexican carbine which is beat to hell but obviously very well made.

It is intermediate length, and if I recall correctly they are safety breeched like the M48 and therefore require an extractor cut.

I would suggest you save the $$ of the reamer and buy prechambered Lothar Walther barrels - they are affordable, very high quality, and long chambered.

Is it really necessary to make the cut for the extractor? Seems like most folks just set the barrel up like a normal mauser barrel? The only difference is the bolt face doesn't have extended lips opposite of the extractor.

Weagle

quote:

Originally posted by weagle:
Is it really necessary to make the cut for the extractor? Seems like most folks just set the barrel up like a normal mauser barrel? The only difference is the bolt face doesn't have extended lips opposite of the extractor.

Weagle

If you plan on having the barrel butt up against the inner "C" ring, yes. If you plan on barreling it like you would a 93-96 on the face of the receiver, no. Since its a 98, barrel it like one.

Thanks TMG for the info on the Lothar-Walther barrels. Totally forgot about them. They look like they would work great.

I think i really need a short chambered barrel though. My situation is this, i do not have a lathe or mill. I would like a barrel as close to drop in as i can find. That way i could use a barrel vise to thread in the barrel and use a finish reamer by hand to achieve proper headspace. I am already having them estimate a price on a custom short chambered barrel.

Looking at their countours, is there anything to the muzzle weight forward contour...(the bulging muzzle thing). Never seen that before, is it supposed to be a vibration damper or something?

Also, another part i will need to work on is drilling the front receiver ring for a scope base. Rear ring already has holes present for an iron sight base. Any good recommendations about do it yourself drilling?

What about bases, i am think a weaver or picatinny style one piece base. Does that exist for a Mauser?

If you want to do it yourself, I would recommend the drilling jig from Midway - works very well. Drill press also helps. Tapping can be a pain in the ass though, especially if (when?) you break one off.

As for bases, I would opt for Talley or Leupold QR bases. They look a lot better, and function very well. Warne makes some decent bases too, better than any Weaver brand that I have looked at.

257 Roberts,

The Leupold one-piece base works well on the Intermediate Mausers. You MAY have to have an extractor groove even if you do not safety breech the barrel. I have seen several actions where the extractor stuck up beyond the face of the primary torque shoulder by up to .007 inches. I have also seen some that did not protrude at all and which worked OK without the groove. To determine how your action will set up, hook a cartridge case under the extractor so that it is held to the bolt face, then carefully remove it and insert the bolt into the action. What you are doing is insuring that the extractor is positioned in a normal position. Check from the face of the action to see if the extractor is protruding beyond the face of the torque shoulder. If it is, the extractor groove is going to be required or else you have to thin (and weaken) the extractor.

Clemson

I recently fitted a barrel to a Yugo 48 action which is basically the same as yours. This has the "safety breach" feature which is slightly different then a standard M98. If you just fit a standard large ring barrel in this action and headspace you will leave an excessive amount of the rear of the cartridge unsupported, not a good idea. Pac-mor or Douglas should be able to provide you a pre-treaded and short chambered barrel but you will still have to make an extractor cut after chambering and headspacing. I would not try to use any of the 'popularly priced" pre threaded m98 barrels for this action. Good luck

Larkin
NRA LIFE, FFL

If you leave off the safety breech feature and just barrel like any other 98 mauser you will need an extractor cut in most cases as Clemson pointed out. Not always but damn near.

Regardless, if you barrel as you would a normal 98 mauser you will not leave any more case head unsupported than on a standard 98. Average is .108". That is darn near identical to what you find on a typical 98.

Ok, thanks everybody. Another question is about "locking" screws for the action. On the floorplate, there are two screws that "lock" into the indents on the action screws. Anybody know where to find these, what are they called?

Brownells carries these items as well as others. Check Brownell's first I would say. Good Luck

I left a misleading post earlier, should have checked the facts better. I'm glad Mike set the record straight and apoligize for any confusion I might have caused. I won't post anything else unless I'm damn sure I know what I'm talking about.
Larkin