I am resurrecting a Fox Sterlingworth stock from abuse and a crack “repair†by someone I can only guess was a blacksmith. The crack has been successfully repaired and a pad turned down so I now look toward finishing the stock. The gun’s first incarnation will be as a mechanically sound “shooterâ€. A restored appearance is not a priority but I am pondering touching up the checkering (for now) as a learning experience. All of the checkering is present; it is relatively undamaged but it does show some honest wear and the border cuts are shallow.

I know that checkering is not for the untrained and if I further restore the gun I’ll have a ‘smith re-cut it. But for now I ask is there a tool that an absolute rookie could use to just sort of dress up the checkering? Is this an application for a bent needle file? What say y’all?

If anyone on here would know it would be Chic (customstock). If he tells you something about rifle stocks you can take it to the bank.

Get some Dem-Bart? checkering toolf from Brownells.

Get a single line cutting tool from Brownells. Avoid the gunline brand. Dembart or Dioron will serve you better. You just need to follow the original lines and repoint those diamonds.

just for starters you need good checkering tools, buy a quality set. beginner set would cover most cuts.
srteightline jointer tool
right angle H3 for tight radisus and corners.
an offset H1 for 2,3,4 and skip line checkering. around or little over $100 bucks.
Dave

I recently restored a Sterlingworth that could be a twin to yours, sounds like. A single line cutting tool (as Bill suggested) works great for what you're doing. Mine came out very nice. Take your time and don't rush it.

quote:

Originally posted by Rick 0311:
If anyone on here would know it would be Chic (customstock).

Chic's username is "Customstox".

quote:

Originally posted by craigster:
I recently restored a Sterlingworth that could be a twin to yours, sounds like. A single line cutting tool (as Bill suggested) works great for what you're doing. Mine came out very nice. Take your time and don't rush it.

Craigster

You wouldn't have any pictures to show us what she looks like now would you?

Mr. Soverns... Thanks for the advice about the single line cutter. I must also say that I've saved your picture series about leather covering pads and I'm game to give that a try, probably on this Sterlingworth. I do however, have one more question. Brownell's has a coarse and a fine cutter. What is the difference in the two? Which one would I need?

Craigster... Your confidence in my ability to do this is inspiring!

I just recently acquired a digital camera. Once I get my shit together with it I'll post some pics. Rouge one, some of the Sterlingworths had what they call "flat top" checkering, ie, the diamonds weren't "pointed", the points were somewhat flat or rounded, for lack of a better term. My gun was made, according to the #'s, in 1913, first year that they were made on a 20ga frame, and the 13th gun made in 1913. Don't know if those 13's mean good or bad! If you want, PM me with the # of your gun an I can give you the mfg date, I have a list of serial #'s and production dates. I can also refer you to a guy in your neck of the woods who restores double guns, he's a wealth of knowledge and does beautiful work.

If you try to repoint the checkering here is a tip. Turn the single point cutter around so that it cuts on the pull. If you don't you will have lots of over runs and a gashed up stock. You can also use the thick plastic tape from those "click turn the wheel repeat" label makers as a stop to prevent over runs.

Here is what I would do.

Get two WE Brownell full view handles. Get 4 single line dembart cutters. 2 coarse and 2 fine. Set one handle up for pull and the other for push. Start with the coarse cutter. Finish up with the fine.