Hey guys,

Luckily I was able to get my money back for the turd quality installation of a Pachmayr Decelerator on my Mark X 458WM. Could you please post pics of what a properly installed recoil pad should look like. I know it should be an extension of the stock and back corners should be rounded. Is there anything else I should insist on the next gunsmith doing? I want to be able to spell out exactly what I expect so I don't get excuses for "average" work.

Thanks,

Hizzie

You want to hand the next gunsmith a picture of what you expect? How about posting a picture of the one you just had done and what the job cost?

Part of getting my $102.00 back was letting them put my old pad back on and them keeping the one they botched. I can describe the work:

-the flats of the recoil pad were dished
-the flats of the pad were raw, not smooth
-the pad was not an extension of the stock, there were high spots on the spacer and pad
-the back edge of the pad was sharp, not rounded, causing it to easily catch clothing
-the screw holes were ragged

The Manager of the shop defended his smith and work completed. He described teh work as "average." When I asked if he (the manager) would want me to show people the work completed and tell them that they (the shop) were responsible a refund was offered. My money was refunded with slightly more than a minimal amount of aggravation so I see no need to bash the shop. I will not, nor will my family, spend any money there in the future.

I just want to make sure I can be specific of what I expect so that I do not have to deal with any stess in the future.

I'm charging my camera as we speak.

The lines of the pad should match the stock, top, bottom and sides, and should extend on into space. The sides of the pad, the toe or the heel should NOT be dished. The finish can vary depending on cost of the job. I use a new 80 grit disc for pad jobs under $100.00. For jobs Between $100- and $119.99 I will dig out a slightly used disc from the garbage and for those rare jobs over $120.00, I will use an old gun barrel to wear down the disc to something resembling 320 grit. I do the same with lapping compound. The well used stuff we sell to the local dental school as tooth polish!

I also don't round the top edge unless the client asks for it.

I've never seen a photo of a poorly installed pad on this forum. Go over to "custom rifles" page and find an example you like...

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
I also don't round the top edge unless the client asks for it.

I'm sure that the dishing of the pad flats only exacerbated the catching of the clothing and the "sharpness" of that edge.

The finish should be the only variable relative to cost.

Better finish higher cost.

Rounded heal is up to the customer or done to fit the style of rifle or shotgun the pad is being installed on.

I am glad I saw this thread. here was me thinking I could just put some masking tape on my stock and use a small hand held belt sander to get the right fit! I am probably another 3 to 6 months away from doing this to my 1910 Mannlicher Schoenauer stock project.

Lousy photo, but, the lines are correct.

How about the rounded edges on this one?

You gets what ya pay fer....

I think Mr. Kobe's fit is as good as it gets. Frankly his finishing a leather pad to RCH tolerances is phenomenal.

The only issue I have with leather pads is that they are can be a little slick in the field. I'm having mine pulled and replaced with heel/toe plates. (Never tried pigskin though.)

As far as uncovered pads is a consideration, no excuse for it not to flow. But the degree of finish again is dictated by $$$$

Aftermarket Pachmayr Decellerator on a Ruger Hawkeye African.


And ditto factory mounted on a Kimber Montana.

Urban_Redneck, Jim Kobe and Arild Iversen -

Thanks for the pics. Those are how I expected the pad to look. I expecially like the rounding of the toe on the recoil pad.


FMC - How much sould a recoil pad cost so that I can expect quality work? The sides looked like a pencil eraser that had been dragged across rough pavement.

I had a turd job done on my shotgun with a Silver's pad. I ended up finishing it myself.

HEre is what I got and what I did...

http://forums.accuratereloadin...601009351#1601009351

quote:

Originally posted by Hizzie:
The sides looked like a pencil eraser that had been dragged across rough pavement.

I'm not defending the gunsmith, but the look you describe is common in improperly ground Decelerator pads. Decelerator pads are very "sticky" compared to more traditional(harder) rubber pads.

Chic Worthing(customstocks here on AR) recommends freezing decelerator pads before grinding them.

quote:

Originally posted by JBrown:

quote:

Originally posted by Hizzie:
The sides looked like a pencil eraser that had been dragged across rough pavement.

I'm not defending the gunsmith, but the look you describe is common in improperly ground Decelerator pads. Decelerator pads are very "sticky" compared to more traditional(harder) rubber pads.

Chic Worthing(customstocks here on AR) recommends freezing decelerator pads before grinding them.

I think you may be confusing that with the Limbsaver pads.

Hizzie,

Did the manager or smith indicate something to the effect of "General work is done for general prices and best quality work demands higher prices." I got that gem AFTER asking what the hell happened and him never once addressing the issue directly.

quote:

Originally posted by BaxterB:
Hizzie,

Did the manager or smith indicate something to the effect of "General work is done for general prices and best quality work demands higher prices." I got that gem AFTER asking what the hell happened and him never once addressing the issue directly.

Nope. I would happily have paid $20 more the first time not to have been aggravated with turd quality. Although I cannot understand anybody offering half ass work for discounted prices. That is just bad advertising. When I asked him if he wanted me to show off the recoil pad and tell people that they did it a full refund was offered. While my Mark X Whitworth is not my "dream rifle" I plan on keeping it for some time and shooting it quite a bit. To me a quality recoil pad, properly installed, is an investment in the rifle. I spent the money for a good scope (Leupold FX11 2.5x20), durable mounts/bases (warne maxima) and a quality sling (TX Hunt Co). I dont spend my hard earned money easily.

quote:

Originally posted by JBrown:
I'm not defending the gunsmith, but the look you describe is common in improperly ground Decelerator pads. Decelerator pads are very "sticky" compared to more traditional(harder) rubber pads.

Other than freezing, how do you finish a Decelerator pad and make it look smooth? Have had that problem myself. Seems like the coarser papers and grits actually give the better finish whereas the fine grit papers tend to roll the rubber up and tear it.

I do all the pads for me and my family now, I can do as good as the local shop. I will say that the limbsavers are a bitch to get real smooth. I freeze them and use wd40. The up side is I can do as good a job as the local shop. the down side is I don't have a jig (I wrap the stock in tape and use a belt sander, I can get it close as two layers of tape allow, but you can feel a slight edge from the stock to he pad) and don't get them as good as the real gunsmiths on here do. But hey, I only do them on hunting rifle not on nice ones.

And yes, I did learn the hard way about drinking, grinding pads at midnight, and leaving the barreled action in the stock at the same time, as the sanded through finish on my 375 can attest, but hey, I hate the way that stock fits me anyways and some day will replace it.

Red