I see there are die sets for threading barrels to 5/8x24 by hand.

Is this a good idea to use on a mod 700 30 cal?

No.

You need to use a lathe. The die is to touch up the threads after.

Muzzle brakes suck. They make you less welcome at the range. I hate beieng near a guy with a brake equipped modern rifle. They are no good for hunting, unless you hunt with ear protection. They will damage your hearing. Brakes are an ill conceived fad, IMHO.

If you are firing a 20mm Lathi or a 50 BMG that is different. For any normal hunting caliber they are not needed or desireable. Just the opion of an old deaf guy. Don't take it personally.

Those dies are for cleaning up the threads attempting to hand thread a muzzle break IS NOT a good idea.



.

You probably need a lathe for a sporter barrel to cut the muzzle to the right major thread diameter. However, die threading the muzzle is done rather often for AR style rifles. No reason it can't be done with any other barrel.

You use a 2 piece set. One part is the die, the other is a piloted guide that holds the die in alignment with the bore. Pilot fit is pretty important as you can imagine.

Again, this assumes that your muzzle is already the right starting diameter.

If you want a brake, look at Witt Machine for one of their clamp on brakes. Easy on, easy off, and not permanent if you don't want it on.

Jeremy

It's not a good idea to use a die at all for muzzle threads. The dies wander a lot. Best to pick up damaged threads and clean them on the lathe. Once you get them running crooked there is no coming back except to re-thread to a smaller size.

No.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
No.

Times 2.

All of the above x 2.

Plus, if you go sticking a pilot or "guide" in the muzzle and then turning hard enough to cut a thread from bare steel, you are GOING to screw up the rifling. I've fixed a few like that. A guy in the barrel business told me many years ago, "Never stick anything in the muzzle."

I use a die to chase and sometimes finish a thread, but that's it. Otherwise it happens in the lathe.

quote:

If you want a brake, look at Witt Machine for one of their clamp on brakes. Easy on, easy off, and not permanent if you don't want it on.

I think I'll go this route.

I saw a guy at the range that had a rifle that I have, a Rem 700 CDL in 300 ultra. His rifle was braked and I asked him how he liked the brake and he said its the only way to go. He said it kicks less than a 270.

Muzzle brakes are serious tools not meant to be used around infants or babies.....

Public ranges are prone to be full of these it seems

Darn! That is the most butt-ugly Martian contraption I've ever seen!

quote:

Originally posted by Scota4570:

Muzzle brakes suck. They make you less welcome at the range. I hate beieng near a guy with a brake equipped modern rifle. They are no good for hunting, unless you hunt with ear protection. They will damage your hearing. Brakes are an ill conceived fad, IMHO.

I agree. I have a braked (removable) 6mm Rem. And yes, it's nasty. As far as braked rifles at the range goes, it comes with the territory.

quote:

Originally posted by Dulltool17:
Darn! That is the most butt-ugly Martian contraption I've ever seen!

But it works! As an old engineer was told me, "It's fine as far as form, fit, and function goes, but it looks like shit."

Yep. I'm just gonna have to play my hole card and (OUT UGLY) you Ted. If memory serves the barrel measures .900 inch to give you a feel for the size. The thing roars like a Jake Brake in a hospital zone. But it just sort of sits on the bags and smiles when you shoot it !

he he he


Capture[1] by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr

[QUOTE]Originally posted by H47:
All of the above x 2.

Plus, if you go sticking a pilot or "guide" in the muzzle and then turning hard enough to cut a thread from bare steel, you are GOING to screw up the rifling. I've fixed a few like that. A guy in the barrel business told me many years ago, "Never stick anything in the muzzle."Quote ]





Nuff said... he lost 3/4" off the length of his barrel to have it done right..

I would rather have a corn cob on the rnd of the bbl, much easier to remove...Bill

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:
Muzzle brakes are serious tools not meant to be used around infants or babies.....

Public ranges are prone to be full of these it seems

Wouldn't that kind of brake eventually push the bore into a slightly elliptical shape? Maybe a collet-type attachment would be better?

Barrels are stronger than that; but if you had a really thin wall, It might.

The forces are pretty evenly distributed. I suppose if you tightened it enough it could cause some temporary or permanent distortion, but not with those little gurly screws in aluminum.

Just for Giggles:
I generally cut threads on really thin barrels to an interference fit because there really is no shoulder to keep the brakes tight with or square up too. We were a bit worried that these brakes that had to be screwed on with a wrench of sorts might choke the bore somewhat. After much judicious measuring with ball mics and trying different pilots before and after we could find no measurable difference. Possibly there is .0001 inch choke in them as some claim. But even with .308 caliber on 1/2x28 threads we couldn't find it and even if it does occur, it appears to make no difference in accuracy or pressure.

quote:

Originally posted by Scota4570:
No.

You need to use a lathe. The die is to touch up the threads after.

Muzzle brakes suck. They make you less welcome at the range. I hate beieng near a guy with a brake equipped modern rifle. They are no good for hunting, unless you hunt with ear protection. They will damage your hearing. Brakes are an ill conceived fad, IMHO.

If you are firing a 20mm Lathi or a 50 BMG that is different. For any normal hunting caliber they are not needed or desireable. Just the opion of an old deaf guy. Don't take it personally.

I'm late getting to this but you've hit the nail squarely on the head: MBs are the worst thing you can do to a hunting rifle. Buy a "Lead Sled" to tame recoil on the Range then go hunting; you won't feel recoil when you pull the trigger on a trophy anyway. Don't be a pussy!

quote:

Originally posted by Toomany Tools:

quote:

Originally posted by Scota4570:
No.

You need to use a lathe. The die is to touch up the threads after.

Muzzle brakes suck. They make you less welcome at the range. I hate beieng near a guy with a brake equipped modern rifle. They are no good for hunting, unless you hunt with ear protection. They will damage your hearing. Brakes are an ill conceived fad, IMHO.

If you are firing a 20mm Lathi or a 50 BMG that is different. For any normal hunting caliber they are not needed or desireable. Just the opion of an old deaf guy. Don't take it personally.

I'm late getting to this but you've hit the nail squarely on the head: MBs are the worst thing you can do to a hunting rifle. Buy a "Lead Sled" to tame recoil on the Range then go hunting; you won't feel recoil when you pull the trigger on a trophy anyway. Don't be a pussy!

Tell us how you really feel.

The last two times I was at the range I was next too shooters with muzzle breaks. I don't have a problem with them.

I have never shot using a lead sled. They seem kinda awkward.

I have only owned one rifle that had a brake on it and it was a Sako AV in 375 H-H. I forgot it had a brake but I do remember it was a fun gun to shoot. Kicked less than my 338 I had also at the time.

I agree with most, trying to thread a barrel with a die set is fraught with likely failure to get a thread true to the bore. As for clamped MBs, yuck, just to bulky and ugly. Why not just run a thread on in a lathe then if you do not want the brake a properly matched thread protector returns the barrel to virtually standard. A trued threaded muzzle is essential if wanting to use a suppressor. Now these really do cut recoil and noise and are very worthwhile in this regard.
A very popular accessory for rifles here in NZ.

I'd volunteer to remove the factory MB on my 338 LM and provide the ammunition if somebody here will promise to shoot 20 rounds of factory ammunition off a bench and make me a gentlemanly wager that every shot will hit inside a four inch bullseye at 100yds.

There's a reason they put brakes on rifles.

Installing a brake is a J-O-B for a good gunsmith.

Somebody say Lapua? Small cartridge is a 308 Win.

quote:

Originally posted by Idaho Sharpshooter:
I'd volunteer to remove the factory MB on my 338 LM and provide the ammunition if somebody here will promise to shoot 20 rounds of factory ammunition off a bench and make me a gentlemanly wager that every shot will hit inside a four inch bullseye at 100yds.

There's a reason they put brakes on rifles.

Installing a brake is a J-O-B for a good gunsmith.

Oh goody. I wanna sit back and watch this sadist meets masochist movie.

LOL

http://ads.midwayusa.com/produ..._i7M8CFUtNfgodY-IBgQ

A 3" 12 ga kicks about 65 ftlb
12 ga dove load 17
338 win mag 42
My 4 bore 175
30-06 15
.223 3.5

A baseball?? Assuming your hand weighs 5# then the free recoil of catching a fast ball is about 7 foot pounds, or right at half of a 30-06.

Yet I see most everyone with a brake on their 223. The dove load kicks the same as a 30-06. Nobody complains. Guys used to put the Cutts compenators on shotguns. That was a bad idea too. Ever been next to one in a barrel blind?

Thing is, it is all psycological. None of the above kicks me too much to shoot well. Being deaf is a big problem, recoil is not.

quote:

Originally posted by Scota4570:
No.

You need to use a lathe. The die is to touch up the threads after.

Muzzle brakes suck. They make you less welcome at the range. I hate beieng near a guy with a brake equipped modern rifle. They are no good for hunting, unless you hunt with ear protection. They will damage your hearing. Brakes are an ill conceived fad, IMHO.

If you are firing a 20mm Lathi or a 50 BMG that is different. For any normal hunting caliber they are not needed or desireable. Just the opion of an old deaf guy. Don't take it personally.

I've got two muzzle brake equipted rifles, a 30/378 and a 300 RUM. I feel exactly as you do. I will never again have a brake equipted rifle. If I can't take the recoil then I'll get something smaller. Just my opinion.

It is illogical to compare shotgun to rifle recoil. They produce different types of recoil. A shotgun is a long slow push, where as a rifle is a short jab. Both may have the same energy, but one delivers it all at once and the other spreads it out over an hour and a half. Velocity kills at both ends. I can kill anything on the planet with a 243 Winchester, simply because I don't like recoil. I also put brakes on all my varmint guns. I'm always wearing hearing protection so the noise is not a concern and I want to see my bullets hit. There is always a need for brakes, as long as you have a need for them and can deal with the side affects.

quote:

Originally posted by Idaho Sharpshooter:
I'd volunteer to remove the factory MB on my 338 LM and provide the ammunition if somebody here will promise to shoot 20 rounds of factory ammunition off a bench and make me a gentlemanly wager that every shot will hit inside a four inch bullseye at 100yds.

There's a reason they put brakes on rifles.

Installing a brake is a J-O-B for a good gunsmith.

I do much better than 4" @ 400 with an unbraked lapua and edge.....

.

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
It is illogical to compare shotgun to rifle recoil. They produce different types of recoil. A shotgun is a long slow push, where as a rifle is a short jab. Both may have the same energy, but one delivers it all at once and the other spreads it out over an hour and a half. ...

Tell you what, you come down here and shoot my Mossberg 835 using 2.250 oz turkey loads and tell me it was "a long smooth push". Don't know hate kind of shotguns you've been shooting but not all of them are as you describe.

quote:

Originally posted by Toomany Tools:

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
It is illogical to compare shotgun to rifle recoil. They produce different types of recoil. A shotgun is a long slow push, where as a rifle is a short jab. Both may have the same energy, but one delivers it all at once and the other spreads it out over an hour and a half. ...

Tell you what, you come down here and shoot my Mossberg 835 using 2.250 oz turkey loads and tell me it was "a long smooth push". Don't know hate kind of shotguns you've been shooting but not all of them are as you describe.

I wouldn't shoot a 7-3/4 pound shotgun with a 2-1/4 ounce charge of shot on a bet. Of course it's going to kick like a howitzer. Because that's what it is. LMAO ROFF