I got my walnut stock back this weekand had it semi inletted for a browning fn action,before i finish the inletting can i have a choice of other actions that will fit besides the browning FN?Will a mauser 98 work or say a interarms cz mark x ,winchester or mato beretta?The stock turned out super light weight and iam thinking a lesser recoiling caliber instead of a 30-06,maybe 257roberts or 243winny or 7x57?If i go with the original idea of a 30-06 should i have it pillar bedded to help with the recoil?I mean the stock feels like it weights 2#maybe 3# max!I think the whole gun when finished will weigh 6#total.I do like the look of the kimber rifle stocks,do they use tung oil only in the finish?I want to try to duplicate there finish.I want to keep the natural wood color and not add anykind of dye,will a tung oil finish only work and be good enough,or do i have to /should use linseed oil?which comes first and how many coats of each application?The stock is black walnut,i would love to post a pic but dont know how on this site.Thanks in advance!

I am not that familiar with the Browning FN, but I suspect that it is close to the Mark X and the 98. The Mark X is Yugoslavian made, not by CZ. I have found that there is often differences in the floorplate inletting between otherwise similar Mauser models.
The 98 Mauser and bottom metal is a pretty heavy action. You will be hard pressed to build a 6# rifle without a carbine-length pencil barrel.
IMO, pillar bedding does nothing to handle recoil. The recoil lug must be properly bedded as it is what takes the recoil. You can also pillar-bed it, though.
I don't know what Kimber uses for their stock finish, but I doubt it involves much handwork. I would recommend using a commercial gunstock finish, i.e., Pilkington's, sanded in to fill the pores. Instructions come with the finish. This subject has been well discussed. Do a search on stock finishing.

The main difference you will run into with the Browning FN and a Mauser 98 is the bolt stop on the left rear of the action. The 98 is shorter than the Browning FN, so if the stock was shaped to fit that action specifically, you will have some problems in that area. Other than that it will be a match.

You can always add some weight to the stock to bring it back up. As far as a finish, go with a good oil finish (non linseed oil) and you will be happy with it.

hey customstox,will Homer forbys tung oil alone be ok or do i need to buy a commercial gunstock tung oil?I have read so much about this subject iam really confused .My gunsmith recommends linseed but iam really not sure about that after reading these forum post and your answer.To get the satin non glare finish would i have to spray it with a coat of anything?Polyurathane?Or will the tung oil be good enough alone?I just dont want to mess up,easier to go slow and reserch first.Thanks for the help everyone.

quote:

Originally posted by blackbearhunter:
My gunsmith recommends linseed

You would do well to listen to Customstox instead of your local gunsmith when it comes to finishing stocks.

I very much doubt you local gunsmith can come close, let alone match, Mr Worthing's expertise.

I hope your gunsmith is better at metalwork...

Boiled Linseed Oil for stock finishing went out around the 1940's... Since then modern chemists have made leaps and bounds with regard to wood protection. Just say no to BLO.

Formby's Tung Oil finish is a mix of alkyd varnish and a bit of tung oil and plenty of mineral spirits so it will wipe on easily. You might get the "look" you are after but it won't protect your stock very well- this finish is not rated for handling- just for looks...

Polyurethane will make your wood look like plastic. Moreover, polyurethane does not like to stick to itself and therefore "layers" of finish form with each coat. These layers may chip and peel with any natural wood movement or common dings and scratches- usually starts around the checkering...

Don't mess up. Get a commercial preparation like Permalyn or Pro Oil from Brownells and follow Chic's every word like I do...

Ok igotta get some brownells stock oil,iam on the right track with that.Next question will i need to stain the black walnut any and would i use stain made from walnut shells?i think i may need a little stain only put it on one time?........any brands and amounts/applications recommened?This is my first stock project and you guys are to blame showing me all these pretty rifles and stock work,i just couldnt take it anymore and i broke down!
Also i weighed my stock shes 2#.Is this light for a 30-06 recoil?Thanks for all the help you guys are #1

Anything wrong with birch wood casey products?they have a stock filler,tru-oil,walnut stain and stock sheen products.Which ones do i need for the old time look and not the glossy weatherby look?will just the tru-oil work and then should i sheen &wax last step?Thanks

There is no need to stain black walnut. Just apply the finish. THhe stock color will darken slightly but more importantly will become very rich and warm. If you want to get an idea of what the stock will look like finished wipe some water on it. You do not need to soak it just get it damp/wet.

Here is a great product for people that aren't great with hand rubbed finish [URL=http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5529&title=Gun+Sav'R+CUSTOM+OIL+GUNSTOCK+FINISH]Custom Oil[/URL] . It's a mixture of tung oil and poly. It's tuff as nails and real easy to use.

Terry

Terry, thanks for the pick me up. That looks very nice.

Hey Terry,Beautiful rifle!is the finish at brownells the spray on can and how many cans will i need?How many coats would i need and will i only use the spray and no hand rubbing or liquid finish applied first?To get the non-glare satin type finish will i have to use some fine steel wool just a little to tone down shine?Your stock looks perfect!Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by blackbearhunter:
Hey Terry,Beautiful rifle!is the finish at brownells the spray on can and how many cans will i need?How many coats would i need and will i only use the spray and no hand rubbing or liquid finish applied first?To get the non-glare satin type finish will i have to use some fine steel wool just a little to tone down shine?Your stock looks perfect!Thanks

One can will do one stock. You spray on about 6-7 heavy coats. This will fill in the pours, but it looks lumpy when finished. After that wet sand with 400grit paper and M/spirits. this will bring the finish back smooth and thin. Then put a thin finish coat on. Let dry a few days and buff with rotten stone or rubbing compound to the desired (shinny/dull) finish. Then off to be checkered. Very easy and a nice finish. Great stuff for the non-professional like myself.

Terry

very nice terry, what was your source for the stock?

The stock came from the much talked about and highly revered GAG . It was in the bargin bin for $395. Somebody bought and returned it when they realized it would have to be shaped and sanded.

Terry