First off, I'm used to plunger type ejectors other than a Sako L461 so I'm not sure if its operator error or the rifle.

ADDED: The rifle is a 300 WSM and I'm using Norma brass.

After 120 rounds or so of load developement I realized I may have ejection issues. This rifle was new and the bolt still has a gritty binding feel on the extraction/ejection stroke.

The spent case doesn't clear the port very well if at all, sometimes laying perpendicular in the ejection port. I tried speeding up the cycling with an empty magazine only to have the spent case do a 180 and land on top of the follower.

I have not tried cycling with a loaded magazine, I'm thinking the next round may put pressure on the extracted case and help it clear the action?

Any advice?

Thanks,

Chris

I think I may have an answer after extensive searchs in the archives.

Let me know if I'm missing something or on the wrong path.

First I may try to bend the extractor a bit to maintain better control of the case.

If that doesn't work I'll drive down to Brownell's for a Williams replacement.

Chris

Mine started doing that too. I've come to the conclusion that the extractor wasn't tempered properly, and it's yielded under use, and not putting enough pressure on the case head to hold properly. I've been too busy to check it out properly, but was going to contact Montana about a replacement.

If there's an after market product that's known to work, I'd like to know about it. That might be the least painfull path to take.

Mine is in stainless.

dave

I'm headed to Montezuma today so will stop at Brownell's and get the Willaims replacement. Will let you know how it works.

Chris

Has nothing to do with Tempering but more to do with tuning. You could send the bolt in and we'll tune the extractor properly for you. CISCO what is the Serial numebr and date you got the action, barreled action or rifle? It will give us a better idea of who put it together and more to look for in QC. Same goes for you SSDAVE if you want us to fix it for you just send it back in, we'll take care of it for you.

Thanks for the offer but I've already replaced it and it's shucking out the brass now. Plus I have a hunt scheduled in 3 weeks and do not want to take any chances of not having this rifle.

A bend is clearly visible on the original extractor between the fore end and the point where it attaches to the sleave on the bolt. It worked fine when I first got the completed rifle.

It's been a while since I had this put together, maybe 8-9 years ago. The action was from an initial offering. SN is B03-01xx.

Thanks,

Chris

I had an ejector problem when I first got my M1999. They sent me a new extractor and problem solved. Not enough tension on the case head....

MK160

I've heard of all kinds of problems, especially with the early MRC actions. I have a left handed, SS, short action (serial number 0005) that has over 4,000 rounds through it (2 barrels) and I've never had a single issue with it.

quote:

Originally posted by MTJ:
Has nothing to do with Tempering but more to do with tuning. You could send the bolt in and we'll tune the extractor properly for you. CISCO what is the Serial numebr and date you got the action, barreled action or rifle? It will give us a better idea of who put it together and more to look for in QC. Same goes for you SSDAVE if you want us to fix it for you just send it back in, we'll take care of it for you.

Appreciate the follow up Jeff, and standing behind the product. I've been inundated for months with other stuff, and haven't been able to look at it, but I made time tonight. It worked fine and gripped the case perfectly when I first built it. It now is so loose it won't CRF correctly, but drops the case and acts like a crpf instead of a crf. On ejection, it drops the case back into the feed rails, and doesn't eject. The action has a serial # of under 60, B10-00xx. I don't know the history of it, I bought it secondhand/unused with a partially fit barrel blank galled into the threads. Stainless barrel and stainless short action. I cut off and bored out the barrel, barreled it to .257 roberts, and it is a fine rifle and very accurate. I could hardly be happier with it, except for the feeding/ejection difficulty.

If you'll bear with me, I'll describe the problem and if you would give me a gunsmithing lesson, I'd appreciate it. I could send it back to you, but I do this for my own amusement, and would prefer to fix it myself and learn something in the process.

The extractor has a gap of about .023" between the back of the rim (actually rimless .257 roberts) and the extractor. My understanding of how these work is that the extractor itself doesn't grip the rim and hold the cartridge against the bolt face, but rather the sideways springiness of the extractor pinches the case tightly into the closely fit bolt face recess and holds the case against the edge of the bolt face recess. The curve of the claw and the spring pressure sideways keeps the case from falling out. The bolt worked this way when I first built it. This is how the model 70 pre-64's that I normally work with operate, they have a gap of about .015" between extractor and rim. This is the same as how the mausers I've built work, so I presume I'm on the right track.

The bolt when first built, pinched the case against the bolt face recess, and fed perfectly. I've shot it about 30 rounds since I barrelled it. In that time, the claw end of the extractor has bent outwards slightly, so that it no longer pinches the case into the bolt head recess. Since the claw doesn't hold the rim because of the gap, it naturally drops the case. I can remove the bolt, push on the extractor with my thumb, and get it to grip the case how I would expect it to.

As you suggest, I could re-tune the extractor to work correctly by removing the extractor, rebending it to hold the case, and it would operate again. My question is how do I keep it from simply bending back out in another 30 rounds? That was the reason I thought maybe it didn't have adequate temper to hold. I don't remember since it's been months since I sighted it in and tested it, but it might have misfed a round and had the extractor overide the rim like a push feed. I wouldn't normally expect that to damage the extractor, my mausers and model 70's do that without bending out of position, they just spring out, override the rim, and go back to working the normal way. If this action won't feed that way, I'll take more care to be certain it doesn't happen.

Any insight would be appreciated.

dave

quote:

Originally posted by CISCO:
I've already replaced it and it's shucking out the brass now.
Chris

Chris,

Whose extractor did you install? I looked at Brownells, looks like they only have the long action Williams one? Mine is a short action, so that route may not work. Short of bending it back and then figuring out how to reharden and temper it correctly, does anyone have a suggestion? I don't have a good idea about how to approach hardening the stainless steel...

If anyone has a better idea, I'd like to hear it. You can see the details in my post above.

dave

Well, it's not so easy to show that over the web? Its a "feel" thing...you know? Wish you were close by I could literally show you and then you would be able to do it. I don't have a problem swapping your extractor out for a new one either? Or sent the whole bolt in and I could do it. Let me know. Or send me an email so I have yours and I coudl make a little video on how to do it? Let me know either way. Just want to make sure your rifle is good to go!

ssdave,

I installed the one in the brownell's catalog. It will work on short actions also.

Chris

I haven't had time to take mine apart and rebend it. I'll try that, maybe this weekend, and if it will stay right, I'll be good. If not, will try sending it back to Montana (Thanks, Jeff for that offer) and see how that works before I try a williams one.

Thanks,
dave