Remember reading about it before, but what exactly is it. Did not notice it in Brownell's. Any info on use, where to buy will be appreciated.

"Backin the day" I used to use rottenstone (a very fine powdered stone abrasive) to obtain a satin finish on high gloss well cured varnish finishes. Just mix some with some light oil or water, using your hands to take off the gloss of the varnish. You used to be able to buy rottenstone at any good hardware store, or well outfitted paint store. Today you just buy the can of "varnish" that cures to a satin finish without the work. I'm sure it is still out there if you look hard enough, it was one of the most popular ways of finishing furniture for a while.

By using a totally random sequence of directions with your hands, you get a finish that has no equal in appearance, JMHO.

[ 08-13-2003, 11:05: Message edited by: 8MM OR MORE ]

You can get it at any good paint store, Home Depot, Lowe's, anything like that. Pumice is a bit more abrasive and agressive and will be in the same section packaged similarly. Works best on an old fashioned blackboard eraser.

All my references for gunstock finishing say its "available in any good paint store." All my references are old. I went to a bunch of good paint stores and all I got was stupid looks. Do yourself a favor and order it from Brownells.

As far as using it goes, I'm still learning. I have no problem getting a high shine, but can't seem to get that elusive "satiny look." - John

One thing I noticed a few years back, the clerk at the paint store would act like you just spoke to him in Latvian when you asked for rottenstone. Have a good look yourself at the shelf stock, it may be sitting right in front of you, BTDT. One of the prerequisites to using rottenstone is several coats of high gloss varnish. After the varnish, 7-10 coats, no runs or drips, you have a good base to work with. It is only the surface of the finish that you work with, if you don't have enough, it won't look right. A total lack of directionality in the rottenstone work is needed to get that deep satin finish, which is why I always used my hands rather than a pad. The detail of a lathe turned piece can be finished using a soaked rag. The texture of the rottenstone slurry should be just a little more fluid than toothpaste. Lots of work, but a great finish when complete.

BTW, a Googlewhack will return lots of sources, also.

My brain is finally starting to kick in a bit. Between varnish coats, use the same technique except with pumice stone as a glaze breaker. One of the reasons it takes a lot of varnish coats is that you remove a lot getting the glaze broken so that the next coat will have good adhesion. If you don't do that, the finish may (will) start flaking off after a while. I guess it is obvious that I haven't done this for a while, eh?

[ 08-13-2003, 18:09: Message edited by: 8MM OR MORE ]

One more rottenstone tip. It makes a HUGE difference when working with it that your finish be cured. I mean CURED. I have had my best results by waiting a couple of months (I know its hard) before knocking down a finish. The best way to do this is put the gun back together and go shoot and enjoy it. Makes the time pass. The difference between rubbing out one that has just dried a couple of weeks and waiting a month or two is more than you think. By then the finish is nice and hard and cuts very slow. I generally make a paste out of lemon oil and stone and rub it with my hands. After doing the whole stock wipe it down with mineral spirits and soft paper towels to check the 'look'. At this point you should have a nice satin. For a real deep glow/light gloss buff it out on a high speed buffer with car wax (Meguires) This applies, in my experience, to the oil/poly blends i.e. Pilkingtons, Tru-Oil, Pro-Custom etc. I quit playing with the pure tung oil finishes as a man is only on this earth for so long...good luck!!

I use rottenstone often to produce a matte finish from a high gloss. One thing I do not do is to use my hands to apply. If you do you will see patterns where your fingers or part of your hands will be applying more pressure and a differerent surface finish to that area. I use a bit of cloth and make it into a ball or was with some portions on the back to hang onto. It is much like a French finish technique (we need to change that name to #$%%^^$%$ technique or remove the association with them altogether). You can also get somewhat of a gloss finish depending on the pressure you apply and the amount of time you spend on it. Be careful removing the rottenstone residue as it can scratch up all your work.

redsplatter,

You can buy rottenstone from woodcraft's woodworking stores for a lot less than brownells. You can even order it online at:

http://shop.woodcraft.com/

You use it with water and felt pads on well seasoned/cured varnish/shellac surfaces.

BEHLEN is one brand, but I have used others over the years. You work a very small area slowly.

You will need a couple of different light sources while you work. Either use natural light indirectly through a window and an incandescent or flourescent. The reason is to get a good idea how much you are cutting and what level of gloss/satin/matte, etc. you are after.

Good luck,

Rottenstone is hard to find locally and Idaho has none and Hardware folks just give you a dumb look and say What?

Brownells does have Rottenstone...

I mix thinned finish with it into a paste and apply it with a fine grit scotch pad...White scotch pad is the finest..Red works fine as long as you don't put pressure on it..It will give you a nice even dull surface...then I apply a coat of pilkington red oil rubbed in and wiped off...That give the stock that London Oil look of yesteryear, but your stock is sealed with a better product underneath it..

Ray, I lived in Twin Falls years ago, and downtown there used to be a store that had one of just about anything. I know I got the last rottenstone I used from that store. Too many years ago to remember the name. It probably migrated to a mall and became a Starbucks!!! I lived there when Eviel Kneviel made his Jump. Now there was a Dangerous Game!!!

Sierra-dave lucky for me I have a woodcraft store in my area and buy both Rotten stone and pumice from there, under the BEHLEN name. Its kinda sad when Ray, and a few other of the elders talk about how you "use to" be able to buy products like that from a common hardware store. But few people know how to hang their own front doors, (let alone finish a piece of wood) these days, so why would they need Rotten stone! Kinda sad