My bolt handle doesnt rest completely flush on hte bottom of the notch cut out for it. It hits the side and there is a mark developing on the stock and the handle from this continual contact. Do I need to dremel out a little more space so that it goes easily to fully closed position.
Since the camo is molded in, will i have to repaint it?

It is a MCM fiberglass stock

quote:

Do I need to dremel out a little more space so that it goes easily to fully closed position.

I'd check to insure that the rifle is properly bedded first and if so....dremel away.....on synthetics one can also use a 4" angle grinder or a sawsall.....

PT&G swept handle is installed cock-eyed as viewed in pic.
Timing/Extraction will suffer.

Aft end of handle inlet in stock needs to be relieved.

not sure what you mean, it is a stiller predator bolt handle

quote:

Originally posted by PATRIOT76:
not sure what you mean, it is a stiller predator bolt handle

Stiller Predators utilize Dave Kiff bolts...

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:

I'd check to insure that the rifle is properly bedded first and if so....dremel away.....on synthetics one can also use a 4" angle grinder or a sawsall.....

Soldering Iron, rub it rapidly with a really hot soldering iron and the plastic will just melt away!

Actually, looking at this pic:


You can see it is contacting on the bottom as well, and I would relieve that area too. Since you only need to remove a tiny amount of material at both places I would glue a piece of fine sandpaper (180-320 grit and I'd go with 320 grit) to a small piece of wood and use that to clean out the channel, and then use another piece glued to a pencil to relieve the corner. You can use a dremel but IMHO the inevitable sanding marks from whatever method look better when they run lengthwise. Anyway, I would clean out and repaint the entire channel, it will look better than a dab or two of touchup. You can either match the green or go with black, or any shade you want and as long as you paint the entire channel it will look OK.

Thanks Mark,

IS this something that HAS to be fixed or is it more of a cosmetic thing? I would assume its important for the bolt to close completely....?

It is very important that the bolt close completely and that the stock not touch the bolt handle.

SO how did the gunsmith who built it for me miss that? Geez....

The smart money says he didn't miss it...

quote:

Originally posted by PATRIOT76:
SO how did the gunsmith who built it for me miss that? Geez....

Who knows? It looks like he used a stock that was already notched for a different style bolt handle, one not swept back, or he just had one too mmany when he cut the notch in this stock.

quote:

Originally posted by tin can:
The smart money says he didn't miss it...

care to explain/elaborate?

The bolt handle in the first picture looks like it had been heated. Could someone have swept it back? If so, heat it and move it back.



I can't picture someone in the business letting a gun leave the premises like that. That would be an obvious problem easily detected by anyone with a sense of feel. I would almost have bet that that stock was not put on by a working gunsmith.

it was put together by someone on this list

http://www.6mmbr.com/gunsmiths.html

The swept handle is manufactured by PT&G for Stiller & GAPreceision.
Do not heat the handle to bend it back straight. If attempted, you will have the bolt in one hand & the handle in the other.

Optical Illusion or ???
The installed handle appears to be touching the rear receiver ring(not conducive to accuracy) & fwd face of the bolt handle is not parallel with the aft receiver ring.
The gap between aft face of bolt body/handle is wider at the 12 o'clock position than at the 3o'clock position.
Have a straight handle professionally installed or inlet the stock for the swept handle.
Paint the handle notch to match/seal the stock after inletting.

Will you give me 2 guesses???

Someone below the Mason Dixon Line-

It's tactical with a couple technical/functional abnormalities.

PATRIOT76 ; Are you a handy sort of guy ?.




First Check bedding is it right ?. If it is make a template paper with tape works well mark
the bolt angle in referencing points too the action with the template .

You've already got a fair Idea how deep the notch needs to be where it's hitting measure it now.

Then Clean out that nasty looking notch , Use Marine Tex or Devcon epoxy or some decent brand of

epoxy filler . Now mix green color to match your stock color. Use a little to experiment

with as color changes when it dries . Get that right portion wise IE use a known quantity of epoxy too color ratio .

Make sure when you clean out the notch use your dremel to rough up inside area of notch so as to
get a good byte .

Now fill it in allow it to dry . If the stock is fiberglass use resin and small amount of finely chopped up glass fibers ( fiber glass fibers ) Real small pieces .

If the stock is anything else use epoxy you can still use chopped fibers .

Place your template back onto the stock mark an out line , dremel away Man go slow .

YOU CAN DO IT !.

quote:

Originally posted by Dans40XC:

Do not heat the handle to bend it back straight. If attempted, you will have the bolt in one hand & the handle in the other.

Absolutely, if you don't know what you are doing then leave that alone.

quote:

care to explain/elaborate?

Nothing too much- if the condition wasn't brought on since you've had the rifle, it must have existed prior to your receiving it.

A professional who makes/assembles/repairs firearms, I assume, would spot irregularities up front, or note them when the work was completed.

Before it was shipped.

As any other profession there are those who do it and those that talk about it !.

A simple case in point ; An extremely good long time customer had some " Professional instalation " work done .

Shutters interior over metal framed windows . The shutters are Top Notch factory excellent .

However the " Professional Installers " weren't . Shutters range in size from say 4 X 5 Ft. too 6 X 14 Ft.

3.5 " wooden slat type . These knot heads used a pin nailer to angle fasten the frame too the wall .

in some cases one pin nail per corner . Like using a 1/8"wooden dowel for a cross bolt in a rifle !.

Care to guess what happened when the house keeper opened the shutters to clean the windows ?.

My point is some do jobs if it were their own , others show up on the job !.

There are maybe 8 Gunsmiths on this site who I would send my own stuff too as they DO THE WORK .

They already know who they are and have done work for me in the past and will do so again .

Here is what the smith replied:

"I can't believe that I didn't catch that before it left the shop. There are two ways to handle it: send it to me and I'll take a small rasp and relieve that area or you can wrap some sand paper around a small dowel and do it. If you want to send it to me I'll reimburse you for the shipping and get it repaired and back out to you the day after I receive it.

Please accept my apologies for this oversight."

this was the order

McMillan Fiberglass Hunting Stocks
- 1a. Stock Pattern:: Sako Hunter
- 1b. Construction:: Standard Fiberglass
- 2a. Action Inlet: right hand Stiller Predator short action
- 2b. Bottom Metal Inlet: Factory Remington ADL
- 2c. Barrel Channel Inlet:: Mike Rock #4 contour \
- 3a. Rifle Caliber:: 308 winchester
- 3b. Fill Weight:: Light as possible for cal.
- 4a. Recoil Pad:: 1-inch Pachmayr Decelerator
- 4b. Length of Pull:: 13 3/4

Gotta love those McM stocks-NOT!!!!!!

Modify the handle inlet yourself.

Seek another gun plumber!!!!