All,

I'm having some work done on the metal of a rifle and was considering lightly sanding and finishing the stock with Tru Oil while it's at the gunsmith. To be honest, there's nothing really wrong with the stock finish other than light hunting wear, but I figured what the heck?! I hunt it hard and it could certainly use a better finish.

Does anyone have a recommendation or any thoughts on going over a factory finish with Tru Oil?

Well, I wouldn't sand it. Just scuff with 0000 steel wool or grey Scotchbrite. Rub on an ultra thin coat or two. After it is cured, do a rottenstone/linseed oil rub to give it a high lustre. Then wax.

Yeah, do that.

Birchwood Casey stock sheen and conditioner is a good way to rub out tru oil without the mess of rottenstone. You won't need to do this every year as, and be careful, tru oil will build up fast. As stated, just lightly scuff it and lightly apply tru oil. You aren't re-finishing it; just, enhancing it. Oh, if it is a Remington with their plastic finish, then you have other problems to deal with. I mean with which to deal.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Only a thought..but you might be well advised not to do any sanding sice the stock is apparently in good repaiur.

WHITE scotchbrite or 0000 steel wool, dipped in tru oil, (I'd prefer Sea Fin) and lightly scrub. Let it set up" a bit, then polish off across grain with paper towel. Use a thorow away paint brush to clean any finish that gets in the checkering pattern.

Do this once a year, and your stock will decdedlop a bmeautiful patina, and will be well protected.

Unless you're not nearly as clumsy as me, I'd avoid the rottentone. If you get any in the checkeriog, it's almost impossible to completely clean out

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. The stock is in fine shape now, just dull and wearing in spots. Duane, so you're suggesting a kind of wet "sand" using Tru Oil and 0000 steel wool? I've seen that method used before (it's on Birchwood Casey's website, too) to fill the grain of the stock. Once that's done, would it be advisable to put a few finish coats on top to establish a protective layer? There's no checkering on this particular rifle, so I don't need to worry about getting anything in there.

I'd also planned on using the Stock Sheen & Conditioner, as I would prefer a satin finish on this gun as opposed to the high gloss one can get from Tru Oil.

I suggest you dilute Truoil with Mineral Spirit - 30% Trueoil & 70% MS. Yes it is a thin mix but that gives you lot of time to wet sand it gently into the wood.

I did my Mannlicher Schoenauer stok with this mix and it came out very well - more than 20 coats - finishing with 1000 grit! That finish is actually IN the wood, though it looks quite a bit like a glossy surface coat.

I graduated from Tru Oil a long time ago, except for hand rubbing a coat over the real finish to make it shine. I'd stay away from steel wool as it can rust in the finish. White Scotchbrite used to wet sand a good finish such as a wiping polyurethane until all liquid disappears will put a fine protective film on the stock. Hand rub tru oil afterward if you must.

Thanks for the replies, guys. Sounds like there's an amalgam of all your information that can give a great finish. I'm very much a fan of getting the wood to absorb as much of the finish as possible so it's not just a coating but rather a part of the wood itself. I'll let you know how I make out.

Where could an interested person buy white scotchbrite pads and Seafin?

Www.grainger.com

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