I would like to put a rosewood tip on my maple stock which I plan on finishing with tung oil.Rosewood excretes it's own oil will this be compatible with the finish I have choosen?
Posts: 178 | Location: Canada | Registered: 03 February 2001
And dowel the tip to the stock, use two dowels, one on each side of the barrel channel. Both surfaces need to be perfectly flat to avoid a glue line. Clean the rosewood well with lacquer thinner or acetone prior to gluing. Clamp with a long bar clamp.
Posts: 1055 | Location: Real Sasquatch Country!!! I Seen 'Em! | Registered: 16 January 2001
All good hints..another one is glue the forend wood to the stock "blank" before shaping and do it as recommended by Ricks..
The same procedures will apply to Ebony....
In my later years I have omitted the forend tip as it is totally non functional and I have leaned in that direction as of late. I'm beginning to feel the same about cheek pieces, as they serve no purpose...
In a gunstock beauty is function and properly laid out quarter sawn Turkish. Marble cake is clown wood and prone to warpage...Now that ought to stir up the troops....
Jonh and Ray, What adhesive would you recommend for the ebony tip? I was thinking of using acraglass. When its clamped would I use only light to moderate pressure to avoid squeezing out the adhesive. I'm not sure if the epoxy type adhesives go into the wood fibers like the yellow wood glue does or just sits on the surface. Thanks.
I like using an epoxy called T-88, if you live in New York you should be able to find some locally. I also like cutting a spiral groove in dowels rather than how Ray suggests roughing them up, just a 30 second pass with the edge of a wood rasp, but either way works just fine. Also, remember to degrease again before you glue it, doesn't need to be in 60 seconds or anything but I like to do it within the hour.
Oh, here is how I like to dowel a project like this, in case you have never done this before it can get frustrating.
Drill with a small, 1/16th or so bit where you want both your dowels to go, drill in about 1/2". Then cut off the heads and and about half the body or so of two small nails so they protrude out about 3/16, pointy side out. Carefully place the forend on and tap with a mallet, which is a fancy name for the hammer closest to your hand. Now drill the forend in about 3/4". Get another pair of nails and just cut off the heads of them, then use them as pins to check the alignment. If everything lines up ok, which it should if you are careful, then drill normally using the pilot holes.
Posts: 7777 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000
