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Bedding a M70 featherweight
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I have one of the limited edition 2008 featherweights produced by FN that I've been tinkering with for a while now. How much of the barrel shank would you recommending bedding, if any? the first 1.5 - 2.00" seems to be the standard, and its what I've done in the past with good results on sporter barrels, but I read somewhere that only 1" of bedding is needed on lighter contour barrels.
John
 
Posts: 102 | Location: Kingsport, TN | Registered: 21 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Only one way to find out. And you know what that is. I bed the first 2 inches of everything.
 
Posts: 17277 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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About an inch is sort of standard. The rule of thumb is: "Whatever the customer thinks is right." They seem to know more about this stuff than I do.

coffee

win 70 bedding by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr


When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
 
Posts: 2542 | Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada | Registered: 05 June 2005Reply With Quote
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Thanks for the responses. John
 
Posts: 102 | Location: Kingsport, TN | Registered: 21 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Model 70 (and Rem 700) are best bedded with nothing under the barrel.

That front screw in the centre of the bedding platform is not there without reason.

Put some masking tape around the back of the square section that sits under tang. Cut the tape so it is thin enough or narrow enough so as to just extend a fraction under the square section.
 
Posts: 7046 | Location: Sydney Australia | Registered: 14 September 2015Reply With Quote
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quote:
Put some masking tape around the back of the square section that sits under tang. Cut the tape so it is thin enough or narrow enough so as to just extend a fraction under the square section.


Do you mean the screw lug/ridge underneath the rear tang? If so, you mean neither the rear, vertical side of the lug or the bottom of the lug, at least at the very rear edge of the lug, should contact the bedding. Does that avoid creating another recoil shoulder?
Thanks,
 
Posts: 102 | Location: Kingsport, TN | Registered: 21 January 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by John55:
quote:
Put some masking tape around the back of the square section that sits under tang. Cut the tape so it is thin enough or narrow enough so as to just extend a fraction under the square section.


Do you mean the screw lug/ridge underneath the rear tang? If so, you mean neither the rear, vertical side of the lug or the bottom of the lug, at least at the very rear edge of the lug, should contact the bedding. Does that avoid creating another recoil shoulder?
Thanks,


Yes, behind that square section under the tang. I cut the tape so that it just laps under maybe a 1/32nd or so of an inch under the square section and on the top of the rear of the square section so it just extends a little bit under the tang.
 
Posts: 7046 | Location: Sydney Australia | Registered: 14 September 2015Reply With Quote
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Rebedded the front lug and tang (factory bedding was soft) and free floated and bedded the full length of the barrel to help stabilize the forend and add a little weight. Group sizes shrank considerably and it's much more consistent now. If that had not worked, I would have tried bedding the shank.
 
Posts: 102 | Location: Kingsport, TN | Registered: 21 January 2005Reply With Quote
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