That action is pure porn.

What would something like that cost?

That Timan Receiver is T . close to perfection in my eyes,
Cant get enough of that sort of stuff!

I got all revved up to get one some time ago, but was so excited I could not decide exactly how I wanted it done. Mr.Timan/Satterlee was very accomodating and flexible in my particular requests, but eventually and no doubt, he must have had better things to do than wait for my indecision.& understandably So.

I don't understand why you didn't put the safety on the left side like in Satterlees design?

Customer wants and wishes I guess?

Just made sense to me. Thumb's on the left hand side of the gun, thumb moves the safety. Why not put it on the left.

quote:

Originally posted by Timan:
The customer had me cut it for Talley rings with recoil shoulders both front and rear of the rings. It's really smooth and feeds great.
SS

What's your thoughts on the double recoil shoulders?? More specifically, their practical purpose?

When a rifle recoils the scope is going to move forward, which would truely only dictate one recoil shoulder correct?
If the scope locates properly on the front recoil shoulder, it really can't locate on the back.

Obviously you were working on a project at your customer's request, but realistically speaking; would you see a problem with only having one?

Not trying to hijack the thread and could move this somewhere else if the responses got overwhelming.

I was kind of wondering about that recoil shoulder too.

In theory you should only need one recoil shoulder, but a gun built to kill bit shit might as well have some insurance.

quote:

Originally posted by D99:
I was kind of wondering about that recoil shoulder too.

In theory you should only need one recoil shoulder, but a gun built to kill bit shit might as well have some insurance.

That second shoulder is one of my main gripes with the Talley setup.....Everyone that I've looked at has about .005"-.010" fore and aft slop between the shoulders....Obviously you would want to preload it to the front, but the one in the back is there for your amusement only I'm afraid.
That system also looses its luster for being a true quick-detach. Several revolutions of the screw or lever become less than ideal for a true quick detach IMO.

Matt

What happens when you drop a steel ball bearing on the floor???

Does it just lay there?

Does it bounce back?

Why would a bearing bounce and the scope rings not?

Truth is they don't just sit on the recoil shoulder. It's only problematic on the big bores. A lot also depends on how much the scope weighs.

If you haven't seen this then you haven't shot many big bores using Talley style rings without the additional recoil shoulders in the back. Unless you REALLY put the screws to them they tend to slide back. Especially with the big 30mm German glass. This is why the little straight Leupold works so well on the big stuff.

I see where you're coming from, but the ball bearing doesn't quite fit too well with the analogy.
The ball bearing, unlike the scope ring, is being left free to move in any and all directions when it hits the floor.

The scope ring is confined on the sides, front, and bottom by an excessive amount of pressure.

Your are right that I haven't shot many big bores with talleys, which is why I was posting the question. Furthermore, I haven't seen anyone making bases for the talley on a custom or even semi-custom bases that did not utilize the double recoil shoulder.

It would seem the theory of "bounce", causing the scope rings to move away from the forward recoil shoulder would indicate free movement between the ring and the base, prior to recoil being introduced.
If the ring is secured properly to the base, making full contact with the recoil shoulder; that ring I would think would have little choice but to stay put, since the force is only causing it to be pressed harder against the base.
Pressed, rather than free play, letting it slide up to the base and causing the bounce back effect.

Just a theory of course, but I haven't had one shake loose on a lot of rounds through 30-06 and a 50mm objective scope.
One of my employees had a 375H&H that we tested pretty heavy for the same reason with a 6x42 Leupold and the gap that was between the rear locking shoulder and the ring was still there after about 60 rounds.....

How big of big bore are you seeing this happen to, and at what point.?

This is the stock model I've chosen for the mauser 98 magnum action on my custom rifle project.[URL= ]WinMod70 Safari Grade[/URL]

quote:

Originally posted by Timan:

I finished this one last week. It's set up for 416 Rigby 3+1 capacity. The customer had me cut it for Talley rings with recoil shoulders both front and rear of the rings. It's really smooth and feeds great.
SS

Stuart!
I thought I was going to get the world's first Stainless Magnum Mauser by Satterlee Arms!

Is It because I am from Kentucky that I get moved to the end of the line?

Or is it because I want my bridges cut for Badger/Weaver cross slots?

I'll take my safety on the left side for the right paw.

Can you make my box 4 down?

If so, it will be worth the wait.

Beautiful stuff.


BTW, did you get those six .375 Ruger dummies I sent to you?

Thats a chrome molly action...not a SS
the 375 is not a heavey recoiling rifle, the rear shoulder does have a place when big bores are fired with the heavier euro scopes...nothing wrong with a bit of insurance!!!
MATT...whats happening with your actions
Daniel

There will be a new Z-6 on that thing for a scope. Probably won't ever need to come off.
Even with the back shoulder machined off so the whole thing slides on from the back, it's not going anywhere but forward until it hits the front shoulder. If the rings are not tight enough then I see it where it would bouce on recoil.In which case the shooter can save some blood. As far as quick disconnecting the scope it is not fast to take it off but then claws and H&H mounts cost a grand or more.
for a talley lever to come off one like this one the first thing that must be done is too turn the front lever out about three turns once that is done then the shooter tips the scope to the right and loosens the back lever while tipping the the scope to the right, being awhare of how to to this helps in a hurry up situation. In a charge situation, where the scope must be removed super fast, claw mounts rule, end of story, rip it off drop it on the deck and keep shooting, until the critter is dead.
Timan

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
This is the stock model I've chosen for the mauser 98 magnum action on my custom rifle project.[URL= ]WinMod70 Safari Grade[/URL]

There we were going with a good conversation on Mauser custom rifles and you had to insult us all by putting that filth on the screen.

M98,
USPS tracking shows that the dummies were delivered.

Oh, I see, "SS" stands for "Stuart Satterlee" not "Stainless Steel."

Stuart:

Timan,

What a great looking action.....Absolutely perfect!

You make the bottom metal & use a Blackburn trigger correct?

Regards,
Dave

Yes, I make my own bottom metal, that way I get what I want and I know it fits.
Here is another picture of that action.
SS

Wow,

If that action was a woman it would be a 5'5 freckled red head with DD boobs!

Timan/SS,
Do those circular cuts where the Talley-style rail meets the recoil shoulder function as stress relievers, strengtheners, like the radius of the standing breech meeting the double rifle water table ... or what?

I can see how this relief cut would assure a flush and tight fit of the ring up against the recoil shoulder. Maybe even improve the grip of the ring when tightened down?

The devil and the angels/angles are in the details.

Should not Talley be informed of this new development so they can improve their product?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by triggerguard1:
..When a rifle recoils the scope is going to move forward, which would truely only dictate one recoil shoulder correct?...[QUOTE]


A rifle has two recoil movements, each in opposing directions.
The second movement is obviously less severe, but can still cause a scope/ring setup to slide rearward on the dovetails.
When the rifle comes back rapidly into the shoulder, then goes to rebound forward, the scope&rings still have rearward momentum and want to keep going that way unless something stops it doing so. If she aint clamped to the action right,it will slide back on the gun. Rear shoulder helps eliminate that chance.
Even if you end up with a micro gap between the ring and rear shoulder, its not a big deal,cause it prevents a much more problematic issue.
I know a top end smith who puts small discrete recoil plate on talley ring attached with (2)small torx screws. It is extremely well done & precise.

RIP, dovetails are cut with a round 60 degree cutter. If the centerline of the dovetail cutter is carried past the end of the scope ring, what you get are big long dovetail cuts that go nearly to the end of the square bridge.
I do not like the look of that and do things to minimize the effect asthetically to the side of the square bridge.
I stop the dovetail cut before the centerline of the cutter,scope ring edge is reached and the web left by the early retraction of the cutter is cut out with an 1/8 carbide milling tool. What this does is gives the inside corner of the dovetail on the scope ring clearance so the ring can be clamped frimly to the dovetail with no false clamping in the radial corners where the 60 degree did it's thing. It short those are clearance cuts for the end of the dovetail on the rings.
SS

SS,
I got it. Looks excellent. Talley-Improved bases and integral to boot. Super.

I still want the Badger/Weaver cross slots. Whenever I come up in the queue.

SS,
Don't forget that the Swarovski scopes now offer an integral rail that will attach directly to a picatinney/Weaver/ cross slot setup. No rings needed.

Timan do you make original Magnum mausers to suit 505 ,500 AE with larger dia bolt[750 etc] that do not have model 70 safety ? if so how much are they ? thankyou !

Tank hunter, Yes, I have tooling for both .700 and .750 actions. I can make you a 505 action with an original mauser flag safety.
Actions are $3000.00 Fully finished and ready for barrel work.
SS/timan
www.satterleearms.com

SS/timan,
What are your thoughts on bolt thrust with the .505 Gibbs in your action with .750" bolt diameter? Do you recommend a pressure limit for this action using the .505 Gibbs case head?

For example, CZ stamps their action for the .505 Gibbs (.700" bolt diameter I assume) with a pressure limit equivalent to about 55,000 psi, more than enough for a <40,000 psi .505 Gibbs classic load.

Would the high pressure .408 Chey-Tac be possible in a Satterlee Magnum Mauser action, disregarding COL issues and single loading them directly into the chamber? Would something like 65,000 psi be safe?

Timan,
Considering the level of fit and finish as well as proper magazine dimensions and custom options available, I'd say your actions are one of the best bargains in the business, especially among modern Mauser-type offerings.

Essentially what you're saying is that your actions come fully squared and true, so that all that is needed is a barrel screwed on and fitting to a stock?

quote:

Originally posted by jz:
Timan,
Considering the level of fit and finish as well as proper magazine dimensions and custom options available, I'd say your actions are one of the best bargains in the business, especially among modern Mauser-type offerings.

Ditto the above,
I am certainly willing to wait however long it takes for a deal like Stuart Satterlee offers.

Seems the 500 Mbogo would be a good candidate for the Satterlee Magnum Mauser in stainless, as well as the .395 Tatanka. Both are based on the .416 Rigby basic brass, and there will be no bolt thrust issues for his Rigby-sized actions, I am sure.

I may have to do a "shop mule" on a CZ or Dakota action (switch-barrel) while waiting for the Satterlee Stainless Magnum Mauser #1.

I hereby lay claim to serial number "SSMM0001" and I expect it will be a "sssmmooo(th) one."

What do you say, Stuart, may I have that serial number?

The Brno pictured has a stock refinished with a red stain, and its nice as they are normally pretty drab in grain, They are a wonderfully balanced stock IMO...I consider the Brno 21 and 22 about the ultimate factory rifle ever and as desirable as most custom rifles...

Check out Maddogs 9.3x62 it is a dead ringer for the rifle pictured, sans the stain. Shoots 1" all day long and would makes someone a pretty nice buffalo rifle. easy to pack all day in the heat. I think its for sale.