The Weatherby round is going faster and if the barrel is not cleaned well, it may foul more than a H&H version. Try using some Wipe out foam cleaner and get the rifle really clean and try it again, None of my 375's are bad on fouling.

Tim,

There needs to be clearance between the rear of the tang and the stock inleting. If there isn't the stock will usually crack where the tang contacts the stock. I had that happen on a Ruger .416 Rigby. Check the web between the magazine and trigger inletting as well. On a p-64 Winchester it is thick but with enough recoil that spot can crack as well. The fix in that case is cross bolting (through or internal).

Search in this section for the Jack Lott article that describes how to properly set up a big bore stock. Lotts (pun intended) of good advice.

I think it is likely that meany (if not most) unaltered BB stocks crack if the rifle is actually used...

Best regards;
Brett

lb404,

Don't know the year of mfg. Serial # is 279xxx. This seems to be a slow bbl. Most I can get out of the accubonds is about 2700. Even rechambered to the 375 Wby I seem to be only able to reach moderate 375 H&H velocities. Bbl looks great inside when it is clean. No throat erosion and nice defect free bore. Seems to be a few tool marks but no more than I would expect on any factory bbl, less than on some custom bbls that I have looked at. I have used JBs some as it cuts my cleaning time dramatically over just using solvents alone. I have thought about firelapping but have had mixed results on other bbls I have done this on and am a little leery of taking the leap on this bbl. It will shoot one hole 5 shot groups, even fouled.

Tim

What speeds are you doing with the accubonds? Have you used any JB bore paste to scrub the barrel. What year was your 375 made. Most 375's had lapped barrels and it is usually hard to shoot out one of the big bores unless your loads are really hot and the rifle is shot a lot. If you have a bore scope, you obviously are not a beginner at this. Lapping the barrel could help. What do the lands/grooves look like? Are they frosted/pitted?

































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I have been shooting mostly Nosler Accubonds but have tried some of the 270 gr. Hornadys and 235 speers just for kicks. Fouling problem seems to be the same with all the bullets.

Tim

Please don't take this wrong. But if your rifle is shooting one hole groups while fouled, why worry about it? I've done extensive testing with my personal rifles and have found that with most of them copper fouling has little if any effect on accuracy and some of them actually shoot better when fouled.

Frontlander,

I agree, I have guns that shoot better fouled too. Problem is they didn't foul this bad this fast. This is heavy enough fouling that I think it is affecting preassures and velocity. Also I have had pitting develope under copper fouling in the past so I try to store all my guns with clean bbls.

Tim

Tim,

It sure is frustrating to have a good shooting gun give you troubles. I had a Ruger M77MkII in 6.5x55 once that was an absolute tackdriver but would blow primers and show excessive pressure with just above minimum book loads.

You are right about the pitting. I live in Montana and we are quite dry (8-10" of precip a year). Most of the time cleaning a gun consists of wiping the exterior down with Rem-oil or CLP and then MAYBE a bore scrubbing to remove powder fouling. My main working guns (1911 Auto, Smith and Wesson .44 Mountain Gun, Pre-64 Model 70 .30-06) get used nearly every day, sometimes just a few rounds a day. Cleaning down to bare metal for me becomes a chore. A cousin of mine from out on the Olympic Peninsula of Washington just about freaked when I didn't clean my guns after an afternoon of gopher shooting. In his environment his guns will rust if he doesn't clean them good.

If your fouling is severe enough to cause pressure problems then I would definitely look into having it lapped. I'd hate to suggest rebarreling on a Pre-64, but the worst case scenario might demand it. Good luck!

What bullets are you shooting?
JCN

I have a Pre 64 375 H&H that was rechambered to 375 Wby at one point or another. It shoots great but has developed a Hairline crack running back from the tang of the action. It looks to have had this problem before as the wrist of the stock has been drilled and pinned, from the quality of the job I would say professionally. The action has been glass bedded at the tang and recoil lug. I could always see the existence of the crack but now that I have been shooting it some it looks to be expanding a little. This is not an original stock but an after-market one that someone put a lot of time and effort into. I would like to salvage the stock, any ideas on how to fix it?
The other problem I am having is with copper fouling. I get a rather thorough coating of copper after only 5 or so rounds that takes a couple days of scrubbing and soaking to remove. Are these bbls notorious as being foulers? My only other pre 64 is a 30-06 and it does not foul at all. I hate the thought of rebarreling but hate cleaning endlessly even more .

Thanks,
Tim

I have had the bbl down to bare metal (according to my bore scope) and it only takes 5 rounds to give me hours of cleaning fun again!

Tim

Can't find that great article by Lott...

Can anyone post the link or repost???

Thanks.