I just received my new .338 Norma and was doing the necessary prep work--installing new grip, bipod spud, checking trigger etc. When it came time to run a dummy round in the chamber to check for length to lands, feeding, etc I found something puzzling.

The first time I chambered the dummy round the bullet engaged the lands and was pushed in a bit, no big deal. Either the 2nd or 3rd time the round would not eject. It was left in the chamber when running the bolt back. I pushed it out with a cleaning rod. I repeated this a few time but no luck on extracting the round with the bolt. Obviously the bolt needed to be able to push the bullet into the lands for the extractor to engage the rim. With that said if I pull the trigger and let the pin fall the extractor engages the rim and I can eject the shell.

Something to note is that when I had Doug Giraud make me the shell holder for my trimmer for the .338 Norma I noted to him that my shell was a loose fit. He told me he used the standard reamer to make the shell holder, and we both agreed that once I fire formed my brass it probably wouldn't be an issue. Because of this I can't really conclude that my chamber is large or not headspaced correctly.

If the rim is not engaged I'm assuming that my firing pin will not reach the primer. Is this correct? Or hard to say? If it is, do you think it would be possible to pull the trigger thus allowing the bolt to engage the rim, lift the bolt to recock the firing pin, and then fire, allowing me to fire form my brass?

I had to wonder if my Norma Brass is too small, but I know other people are shooting the .338 Norma and I can't say that they are having these problems that I know of.

Any ideas? I will contact the smith on Monday, but wanted to kick this around with others as well. I will definitely not be attempting to shoot the rifle until I know things are safe.

Update: It appears that I can put a small piece of scotch tape (.0015" thick)on the shoulder and the extractor will engage the rim and I can eject the shell without pulling the trigger. Seems that the chamber isn't too sloppy....ideas?


Thanks for the help,
Conrad

Given that I can push a shell into the bolt face and the extractor grabs the rim, I'm starting to think that my counterbore on the barrel face is cut just a hair too shallow.

You could create a secondary shoulder on the new brass or when necking it just go halfway down.
It should hold enough to get them fired.

quote:

Originally posted by plainsman456:
You could create a secondary shoulder on the new brass or when necking it just go halfway down.
It should hold enough to get them fired.

But that doesn't address or correct the problem. From the sounds of things I'm thinking headspace.

It seems strange that just a .0015" thick piece of scotch tape that is only about a 3/8 x 3/8" square on the shoulder will make the brass extractor grab the case as I chamber it. I have a hard time understanding this if it was a headspace issue? If you think so could you explain.

This bolt does have a M-16 extractor on it, and I've read that the counterbore should be .785" in width. I took the barrel off and measured the width to be .772ish" so maybe this is my problem. I appreciate the feedback.

The width of the counterbore can affect how the extractor moves out. Too narrow and it can't move out enough to snap over a rim. The fact that it will snap over the rim tells me that it probably isn't the culprit. But adding length to the case in order to get the extractor to connect tells me that the chamber is (a) either too long, or (b) the extractor hook is too far back, or (C), short brass. Maybe.

You make good points. Interesting that after I pull the trigger and let the firing pin drop that the extractor will then engage the rim when I go to eject the shell. Of course I need the extractor grabbing the rim when I feed the cartridge and close the bolt.

If my chamber is too long why does the .0015" tape on the shoulder give me the contact I need for the extractor to fit over the rim? To me that is saying that I only have .0015" of clearance, which is less than what I bump my shoulders back when sizing. I typically shoot for .002". I could understand if I was having to use multiple layers or thicker tape and saying that after I added .006" to the shoulder then it would engage. Am I missing something here?

Measured the brass...can't tell that it is overly short. Shoulder seems to be in the right place.

Extractor seems to be positioned correctly.

I guess what I'm wondering is if the .785" counterbore is what is recommended, and I am sitting .010 to .015" narrow of that, am I just right on the edge of it not engaging? Why would it engage on a dummy round after pulling the trigger?

After doing the sharpie trick on the bolt nose to see if it rubbed and finding no evidence of such I also believe that it is the counterbore diamter. I have run my primary dummy round enough times that the extractor now grabs the rim upon closing the bolt. This round does show a good bit of wear on the rim, and I believe I've worn it down just enough for the extractor to have more clearance. The other cases that have not been run as much still do not extract. I think a quick run on the lathe to open the counterbore diameter another .010" will solve the problem....I hope. Thank you for the help and feedback.

-Conrad