Guys,

When is one likely to need a forend pressure pad during bedding a rifle? Any characteristics of the action/barrel weight/chambering that make it more likely to be necessary?

Thanks,

quote:

Originally posted by mstarling:
Guys,

When is one likely to need a forend pressure pad during bedding a rifle? Any characteristics of the action/barrel weight/chambering that make it more likely to be necessary?

Thanks,

When nothing else you do is working.

Also, because uniform wall thickness is greatly exaggerated in pencil thin barrels, they are more likely to be affected by heat and barrel whip than heavier contours, so of all the various barrel contours, these would likely be a good candidate for some type of pressure. But I would shoot it first without contact.

If a rifle is correctly bedded and free floated and won't shoot but improves with forend tip pressure then in my experience the barrel is no good.

Westpac,

Is an FN commercial Mauser action with a 22" #4 Douglas barrel. Chambering is the .416 Aargard (a .376 Steyr necked up to .416).

Stock is a Fajen's synthetic bedded with epoxy loaded with stainless steel powder. Action is not touching the bottom metal. If I loosen and tignten the rear or front trigger guard screw I cannot feel the bbl move. Trigger is a Timney Sportsman set at 3#.

Rifle is scoped with a 1.8-5.5x38 Zeiss Conquest with Leupold QRW rings set into very tight custom mounts. Used the same scope and mounting system on a .458 AR which shoots clover leaves with 425 gr Rhinos at 2400 fps. So am satisfied it works. This rifle is, by the way, also on a Fajen's stock.

Rifle is shooting a 3/4" group with 400 gr cast bullets driven at 1800 fps with AA5744 very consistently.

If I move up to a 350 gr Speer MagTip at 2250 fps with H335 which has much heavier recoil, it is not consistent.

Am thinking I need to try the pressure point.

The fact that it will shoot albeit cast bullets is a sign that you probably haven't hit on the right jacketed bullet and components.

If the action is bedded tightly, you probably won't notice any barrel movement tightening and loosening screws. Instead, use a Leupold magnetic bore sighter to check for movement.

You might try putting a few business cards between the barrel and forearm to see if the groups improve. Adding and subtracting cards to change the amount of pressure. Likewise you might try whacking the tip of the forearm with the palm of your hand to see if you can detect any contact between the barrel and forearm. If you do, give it more room.

FWIW, the reason I mention the Leupold magnetic boresighter rather than your typical spud type boresighter is because I don't like, or, recommend inserting ANYTHING in the muzzle end unless it is absolutely necessary.

quote:

When nothing else you do is working.

Sounds as though that barrel might prefer a bullet with a longer bearing surface. Worth a try anyway.