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I have a pre 64 model 70 that I'm going to refinish the wood on. The checkering is there but very smooth. I would like to recut so as to be sharper. I see in Brownells catalog that I can buy a NO. 131 checkering riffler to clean up the checkering. Is that all I would need or would you recommend something else. About the refinishing do you do the checkering repair before, after or during the the stock refinishing. I know I should send it out and have a pro. do the work but I think half the fun of having gun is working on them. Thanks Tony | ||
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I suppose you could do it with a riffler, but it would probably take forever to do. Here's what I recommend: FULL VIEW CHECKERING TOOL SINGLE LINE CUTTER (FINE) Install the cutter so it cuts when you pull as it gives better control than pushing it. You don't need a riffler. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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Does it matter if it is a 60 or 90 degree cutter? | |||
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Yes; 90 degree. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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Good advice from John...actually the available option that I know of is 70 degrees. Winchester wood is pretty open grained for the most part, so the shallower diamond would be stronger. Checkering on the "pull" instead of the "push" would personally drive me crazy, but if it works for you..... | |||
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I guess it's all in how you learned first, but I never heard of a horse pushing a plow. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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1. Get a book. (Monty Kennedy-Checkerin and Carving Gunstocks, Brownerll's). 2. Strip the stock thoroughly. Wash away the residue with water. Yes! 3. Refinish using a proper oil. I like Permalyn. Winchester used a stain to get the reddish hue in their stocks. You can obtain it (and Permalyn) from Brownell's. Wet sand with the Permlyn and W/D paper. You'll need at least 220-400. 4. Unless you are extremely patient, and have good coodination, I'd pay someone to re-checker. It's harder than it looks. Good luck! | |||
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