Anyone ever use any of the Waterlox products for gunstock refinishing? I was looking at their original sealer/finisher and have read some good things about it.

I have extensively researched Waterlox products and I am currently experimenting with the Original Marine finish.

All the Waterlox varnishes have a similar formulation: Mineral Spirits, Specially Processed Tung Oil, Vegetable Oil, Phenolic Resin, Xylene. You get more mineral spirits in the Sealer, a little less in the Original, and a little less than that in the Marine. I haven't messed with the Satin yet. Basically I feel that I can add my own mineral spirits cheap so I don't buy it through Waterlox.

The Marine finish is 49% solids, thick and amber colored. It has extra UV inhibitors that protect the finish from degradation. I thin it myself and soak it into the walnut until it builds on the surface and the stock will take no more especially the inletting and butt. I let this dry for a month or more. I then scape and sand it all off- yes a real pain. I would rather have the pores filled with pure spar varnish than with a wood dust/varnish slurry. I then squeegee on a very thin coat of Waterlox with a french polish dauber- it gives a very deep luster and pops the grain but is too glossy for my tastes... So I had to rub it out- but it's spar varnish and it resists abrasion and its therefore not the best rub out candidate so-

I got my first can of Daly's Benmatte Tung oil last week and have been polishing on thin coats onto a Winchester 52 stock which was soaked in Waterlox. This is more like it- lusterous and sensuous- you want to touch it and shoulder it- a very close to the wood finish. See the previous post on Daly's finishes...

Like the pros on this forum have stated before, it's all in the technique. Find which technique/product combination works for you and use it. Or do what I did, and just listen to Chic...

A couple of things come to mind, one is there is no black magic formula for gunstock finish, its all in the application for the most part..

I have used them all and many homemade concoctions...but any oil modified urathane is good...Actually True Oil is about as good as it gets...I really like most of Brownells finishes and the old yellow can of varathane, although slow to apply is one of my favorite, but it has Tuenol in it and thats supposed to be cancerous, so be carefull with it...It is definatly the most waterproof of finishes and for rifles that are going to be used hard.

One thing I would never do is use steel wool on a gunstock finish as it leaves tiny particles of steel imbedded in the finish, that eventually rust, and then break out the finish..I use red, green, grey and white scotch pads for final finishing after 400 grt. paper...

Sniper,

I also purchased those rubbing compounds from Brownells about 4 years ago. I tried them once and was not pleased with the results. You may have better luck with them but for me the best way to rub out a stock is with some rottenstone and your finish. I use Daly's Ben Matte or SeaFin Teak oil for my finishes and combined with a little rottenstone it works great and its easy to use.

Here is what I do.

Take a hard felt pad and dip it in your finish, dip into the the rottenstone and apply to the stock. Dont rub very hard and work small areas until you have the look you want. The more stone you use the faster it cuts. Take your time and when your all done - soak a clean rag in your finish and wipe the entire stock down to remove all the rottenstone. Then wipe again with dry paper towels to remove the excess finish.

Ray Atkinson..that's a good tip on the pads..I'll pick a few up.

Bill Soverns, sounds like some other good information.

I'm not looking for a magic potion..just trying to determine what works best for me and exploring the options. Keep the info coming!

I just ordered some BenMatte and Profin. I have a high grade black walnut stock on the way to work with.

Are you guys cutting the BenMatte down with thinner and using it as an initial sealer?

I use a good marine varnish cut 50/50 with mineral spirits for my intial sealer. Slop it on until the wood wont drink any more then let it dry good for about a week. The rest is straight Ben Matte out of the can - its thin enough already.