I am working hard on getting my new rifle together, (pre-64 action, Krieger barrel) and went to mount the scope...and the bolt handle hits the eyepiece of the scope. I have several pre-64's with Leupold scopes, and all of them are fine with this mounting height. I did some investigation (swapping bolts, measurements), and have determined that the anti-bind lug was machined to far. It works perfect with two pieces of electrical tape stuck to it (.015").

So my question: Can a small bead (Tig, Mig)be layed one the lug face, then milled to the right dimension? If so, could it be spot hardened?

I greatly appreciate any help. Doug

Seems like an awful lot of work for .015 if you can gain clearance another way, provided the bolt is operating fine otherwise. Have you considered changing the bolt handle angle slightly to clear it?

Grind a flat scallop on top of bolt handle. All my Mdl 70's have been modified this way. Look at a David Miller rifle if you can find a pic. Looks good and is easy and clears scope very well even my Swarovski with a LARGE eyepiece. I use a flexible shaft grinder with a 1/2" drum. Takes about 1/2 hour with final polish.

Thank you Nalm & Zimbabwe. I have considered both, but first wanted to explore building up the lug. The .015" build up of the anti-bind lug equates to around 1/8" decrease in movement at the handle.

As a back up, I was thinking (as you both have suggested), grinding a relief cut in the handle, or heating & bending it down.

Whew...what a journey this rifle has been. I started out over three years ago, and it still fights me!

Why fight a battle that you may loose. Most likely the weld and heat treat can be done but why? If you don't be careful the heat will cause you a greater problem. Miller had the right idea. Reshape the bolt handle. It's easier and you are building a custom rifle and have the chance to change the sweep of the bolt to really accent the rifle's stock.

10-4 buddy k9. I have been Googling for a pic of the David Miller modification and have come up with nothing.

Zimbabwe...can you post or send me a pic of what you did?

Doug

It's blasphemy to cut a pre 64's bolt.

Just make the scope and stock higher. Once you have shot one of the new Kimbers with the high combs you may appreciate the lower felt recoil and seeing the bullet hit the game.

Wish I knew how to post pics. I have a digital camera but the rest escapes me. I grind mine exactly as David Miller shapes his although I'm sure he mills his. I can't understand the the lug reference. I have a prewar 70 (1939) with a one piece Redfield base MEDIUM rings and 3.5x10 Vari-X III. Have to use Medium rings to clear objective. Bolt handle clears with room to spare. On my transition model (1947/48) same base with LOW rings and Leupold M8 6X the bolt handle has to be ground to clear. My classic SS 375 has old Warne bases and low rings and it has to be ground to clear the Swarovski I usually have on it (1.5 x 4.5) as it has a VERY large eyepiece. All of mine interfere with LOW rings and require relief. My prewar has a SMALLER diameter bolt handle so they definitely changed bolt design after the war. If it's terrible to grind a Mdl 70 bolt handle I'm guilty as all but my prewar are ground. I'm currently having a 257 Rob built on a classic Mdl 70 action and it would REALLY outrage the purists as the bolt handle has been REPLACED with one that has no rearward rake to it which I prefer. My Brnos (375,416 Rigby) have both had the handles straightened and my Ruger Magnum 416 Rigby has had the handle replaced with a longer straight one. I'm one who has definite preferences on bolt handles.

Doug-

Might another solution to your problem is to find a Pre-64 Model 70 bolt whose anti-bind lug is more factory spec, thus eliminating your problem. Now, I have never tried to find just a bolt but, I am sure that can be done if leaving the integrity of bolt handle is a critical factor.

Just a thought. May be easier said than done.

DougH9

Modify the bottom of the guide lug as Miller and Echols do on their rifles.

Drill two 3/32" holes from the bottom and press in derlin plugs, Yes PLASTIC, file to hieght. Take care to drill at a slight angle toward the center of the body and you only have to go about .100 deep. This should be done in a Mill and not a drill press.

This will take up the slack and smooth up the travel.

Jim Wisner
Custom Metalsmith

Thank you everbody for the feedback; it has made it easier to deal with the problem/setback by just talking about it, and my options. One thing I have learned about pre 64's...they are like a Randall knife...no two are alike.

But Mr. Wisner...you hit pay dirt! That was just what I was looking for! This site and shareing of information is wonderful.

Now I need to decied whether to do it myself, or send it out.