Kregg,

I'll just repost here what I had on the other thread...

The rod is tapered. So, does it take a pilot at the small end?

Any pictures and explanation of how it'd held parallel in the bore if it's a tapered rod?

Is the part of the rod you're indicating off of tapered or not?

What rate of taper are yours?

Using the holder you made, you use two tapered rods, one in each end to dial it in, yes?

Two indicators spaced apart on one rod - Why two indicators?

Just getting into this here shortly for nearly the first time, and a lot of this is still new to me unfortunately. I remember very little from machine shop class in high school, and it was basic stuff at that. Would have helped a lot to have finished it too, instead of dropping out to go commercial fishing where the money was. $1000 a week was just too hard to resist back then.

This is pretty much off topic, so I'll start a thread about tapered rods and indicators to continue.

i posted on the other site, every body does thing there own way. but for me this is the best way of getting what i want when chambering a rifle.you have the 8-bolts that you adjust to get that bore rod running true with the bore. and like i said use the boring bar to open the bore up and then the bore is true,your reamer will follow the true hole that you made with your boring bar. but dont go all the way in with your reamer stay about 50 to 100 thousands away from the data line on the reamer. and then thread your barrel in the same set up so your threads are true to your bore. then finish chambering your rifle.now your chamber and threads are true to each other. you want to have the taper bore rod makeing contact were your bullet is going to be in your chamber.that way every thing is true coming off of that point. i hope this helps you but it can get confussing if you are not a gunsmith.

in this set up the crown end of the barrel is inside of my head stock.you can not put a gage in the crown end at this point. thats why i use my holder that i made. because i want the bore to be true were the bullet sets in the lans.if you have a bore rod sticking out of the end where your chamber is going to be and theres 4-inches sticking out and you use two dail gages that read tenths and you have that bore rod that fits tight were your bullet is going to be in the chamber and you dail that rod in with in 1-tenth with both gages on that rod you will have a good chambering job. i dont put a pin at the crown end and a pen at the chamber end and true it up that way because that wont give me what i want. if you do it that way your chamber hole will start out good but where the bullet is going to set in the barrel might not be true to the pin that you used to dail it in. as for the crown i turn the barrel around and use the tapered bore rod on that end to just as if i was going to be chambering. yes a jet lathe is a good machine. if you have something 4-inch sticking out of your barrel and you have two gages on it that say its running within 1-tenth that bore will be straight if you cut it frist with a boring bar to open the hole up.

Kregg

Where did you get a six or seven inch rod that you are sure is within a couple of tenths. Such a rod, especially tapered on one end would have to be on the lines of a deltronic pin, and a streight one of those two inches long is good bucks. If you can have one groundthat is as long as needed, even streight, for a reasonable price, I would be interester in one myself. One .0300 to the tenth would serve most of my purposes, Let me know where you get yours, please. Thanks

Dave Kiff at Pacific Tool and Gauge will make any size and length you want.

http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/

Dave Kiff has produced rods like this. His take a removable pilot at the front and have a tapered section at the rear. I think the concept is a workable one and is especially useful in working with a barrel which is a little crooked. I've been fitting barrels for over 25 years and still experiment with different ways of setting up and chambering. I've tried a number of different types of holders and have chambered in the headstock, in the steady, in fixtures made to hold and align the barrel, and more. With care, every method has been capable of producing chambers which were essentially perfect. It is also possible to short curcuit every method with poor technique. Regards, Bill.

I get mine from Greg Tannel of Gre'Tan Rifles. Not that his are any better than anybody else's I just like doing business with them. Jim

Bill and Jim
Thanks a lot, I'll give one of them a call tomorrow. Certainly appreciate your time.

Kregg, the nifty barrel fixture you use, what is the O.D. and lenght?

What size do you bore the hole thru?

Is the same fixture you use to true actions?

Last queston. When you turn down a bolt to sleeve it, how deep is your undercut?

TIA, Al