I always part off Mosin barrels as they are one of the poster children for overtorqued barrels with very large surface areas to gall. But it's 75% shorter to type than friction welding,

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
That won't work. It has to be ONE sharp snap. A series of little ones won't do anything. Even if it did work, who has time to stand there and whack the wrench 50 times?
Barrels and receivers are not nuts and bolts. Different dynamics and torque forces.

You get a really good "snap" with a 12lb hammer but the receiver to barrel thread fit is usually so tight you need a two foot pipe to finish winding them off.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
I always part off Mosin barrels as they are one of the poster children for overtorqued barrels with very large surface areas to gall. But it's 75% shorter to type than friction welding,

Besides, the vision in peoples minds of you pouring bile on their barrel to loosen is far more magical. Like, eye of newt and hair of toad kinda witchcraft.
I also refuse to make an action wrench for Mosin Nagants. Rebarreling Mosin Nagants and Lee Enfields is like putting lipstick on a pig.

I'm not a smith, just a hobbyist, but I have pulled a few barrels over the years. The one I will never forget was on a French MAS 36. After the usual setup failed I clamped the barrel tight on the table of a 9 by 42 Bridgeport and made up a wrench with two flat plates welded to a six foot piece of bar stock to clamp the action with. That did it but I actually thought that Bridgeport would tip over from the torque before she broke loose!

quote:

I also refuse to make an action wrench for Mosin Nagants. Rebarreling Mosin Nagants and Lee Enfields is like putting lipstick on a pig.

What is it with those stinking Lee Enfields ? I only attempted one and learned my lesson. Probably the same knot heads that concieved the two piece stocks.

quote:

Originally posted by Craftsman:
[QUOTE]
What is it with those stinking Lee Enfields ? I only attempted one and learned my lesson. Probably the same knot heads that concieved the two piece stocks.

Damned British and their hare-brained engineering!

On the subject of these stuck barrels;
No one seems to have brought up the proper etiquette of preparation, which should involve pouring and consuming a rather largish, dollop of corn squeezins and the proper and liberal use of colorful metaphors. I have always found that if something won't give way when you're calm, calculated and sober. Getting angry and drunk will at least make one hell of a mess of things and possibly wreak it and at that point you can throw the whole damned thing into the trash like you should have done in the first place.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Nooo...I didn't suggest an impact wrench on a barrel...I pointed out the fact that repeated small blows can loosen the tightest applications

Are you agreeing with me? I said constant strong blows may loosen...

Some are guaranteed to improve your vocabulary.

Dave

What is it with those stinking Lee Enfields ? I only attempted one and learned my lesson. Probably the same knot heads that concieved the two piece stocks.[/QUOTE]

I have to apologise for the precision of our Britsh workmanship making your lives difficult. It must have been the heat generated in the receivers when we were knocking the shite out of the enemy.jc

John C: That makes sense.

Rod: I got a short laugh the first time I saw that picture. After reading your laundry "excuses" I mean reasons. Now I understand. The only part I still have questions about is the Sandals. ----?

Hmmm, Farmer: about the heat and ice. I have a similar related history. Back in the mid 60's my ex/late FIL had a dirt moving business. Running his D-8 2U one cold miserable winter a sprocket bearing froze up and locked itself into the nut so bad he had to torch it off. Those nuts in '65 cost $95 each at CAT. He asked me to help put it back together in -25 F and 30+Mph. Don't need to explain how miserable that was.
Anyway, CAT told him that nut had to be torqued to ?14,000lbs. Ungodly amount and I may be way off as it's been so long ago. How the hell you gonna get that tight by hand out on the dirt site?

Ahhh, dry ice for a couple hours on the axle, huge rosebud torch til the nut was red. Spun it on quick with tongs, reheated it. Then with a I think 2" drive socket and 8' cheater on a 4' handle. His 280 and my 165, then bounced on the end til there was no give.

Couple years later the differential went to H. He took the dozer and let them do a CAT Major for over $20,000. After they split the third hydraulic socket they called and asked for details. "oh, ok, you're buying another new nut!!". Amazingly they didn't charge him extra for the sockets. It seems like the nut was over 4" across the flats. I've seen bigger but, never worked with one.

Cheers, enjoyed reading this thread. Helps understand what I've been told at times.

George

quote:

Originally posted by georgeld:
The only part I still have questions about is the Sandals. ----?


George

Very simple mathematics. The building my shop is in, is heated by hot water, cement flooring. Creates 3 major problems for someone like me. First, the floor heaves around like a pretzel in a sweat shop. It makes it almost impossible to keep any semblance of level on machines. Second, you can't drill into the floor to bolt the machines to the floor for fear of hitting the piping which is embedded right into the concrete. According to the condo board, I might be liable for a nasty $4,000 repair bill if I hit one. I guess one of the other shops installed a hydraulic lift and they got unlucky and hit one and that's what it cost them. Lastly of course, your feet literally COOK in the winter in anything other than sandals or canvas deck shoes! LOL

Thanks Rod.
Hell of a deal on that kind of floor. I've been in quite a few BIG shops with such heat and really liked the way they warmed right up when the big doors closed.

Enough so that I bought 1000' of the 3/4" tubing and have a boiler to put it in my shop. Between running out of money first, then health going to hell. It's still mostly dirt.
Some steel plate around the welding, cutting area and 3/4" plywood over some of the rest where I was doing some work under the truck and refinished the bottom of my big old boat. Sure need a hard surface laying on a creeper.

Can't the heat be turned down enough it don't burn your feet so much? Should be zone controlled.

Thanks for the explanation, thought I was gonna get a chance to tease you a bit. Oh well!

George

Just in case anyone is on the edge of their seat, i got it off. Ground some new flats in the barrel stub and clamped it in my barrel vise with steel blocks. Then i added a 4 foot pipe to my action wrench and gave it a good hard shove. Those threads were tight though, had to twist hard the whole way off...

quote:

Originally posted by montea6b:
Just in case anyone is on the edge of their seat, i got it off. Ground some new flats in the barrel stub and clamped it in my barrel vise with steel blocks. Then i added a 4 foot pipe to my action wrench and gave it a good hard shove. Those threads were tight though, had to twist hard the whole way off...

Him, does not have such problems.
Him has 3/4 x 16 TPI grade #8 bolts in hims barrel vise and tightens everything with a 36 inch breaker bar. Him also cuts close fitting aluminum blocks to fit the barrels and has 3/4 x 16 TPI grade #8 bolts in hims action wrench which has a 36 inch handle. Sometimes him slips a length of pipe over the handle!

Him is a professional. Some of us are pathetic hobbiests and use the sledge.

quote:

Originally posted by Mark Taylor:
Him is a professional. Some of us are pathetic hobbiests and use the sledge.

Ah yes. But it costs the same and takes the same amount of time to make the professional vise, as it does to make the hobbyist vise ! I bet that you're using a (PROFESSIONAL SLEDGE), and don't even know it. LOL

If you're gonna kill sumptin, kill the ever-livin-shit-outta-it !

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:

quote:

Originally posted by Mark Taylor:
Him is a professional. Some of us are pathetic hobbiests and use the sledge.

Ah yes. But it costs the same and takes the same amount of time to make the professional vise, as it does to make the hobbyist vise ! I bet that you're using a (PROFESSIONAL SLEDGE), and don't even know it. LOL

If you're gonna kill sumptin, kill the ever-livin-shit-outta-it !

I've seen pictures of Rod's set-up on another (not to be named) forum.

I can't imagine anything under 20MM that would stand up to that beast of a rig...

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
Ah yes. But it costs the same and takes the same amount of time to make the professional vise, as it does to make the hobbyist vise!

Some of us pathetic hobbiests don't even make our own vises!

quote:

Originally posted by montea6b:

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
Ah yes. But it costs the same and takes the same amount of time to make the professional vise, as it does to make the hobbyist vise!

Some of us pathetic hobbiests don't even make our own vises!

Being a hobbyist is not necessarily a bad thing.


When a hobbyist fucks up, any self respecting professional should be able to bail him out with no problems. When a professional fucks up, its time to call in The Energizer Bunny, The Dos Equis Guy and Hillary Clinton. Because you're gonna need a WHOLE SHITLOAD of power, finesse and bullshit to make things right again !

And the bullshit will come from clinton

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:


Normally a proper barrel vise and wrench will take off just about anything. Proof of that is that I can never recall parting one of Toms P14s or P17s. Only Billy Leepers infuriating Lee Enfields which I refuse to make a wrench for. I have however run into a few Mausers that refused to budge. When a proper barrel vise and action wrench with a pipe on the handle let me down, I cut them out.

(+1 to ALWAYS leaving the bolt in the action to prevent crushing!)

When a proper wrench with a 4 foot handle fails, it's time for a more civilized approach.

action wrench by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr

Nice welding sandals!

quote:

Originally posted by kendog:

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:


Normally a proper barrel vise and wrench will take off just about anything. Proof of that is that I can never recall parting one of Toms P14s or P17s. Only Billy Leepers infuriating Lee Enfields which I refuse to make a wrench for. I have however run into a few Mausers that refused to budge. When a proper barrel vise and action wrench with a pipe on the handle let me down, I cut them out.

(+1 to ALWAYS leaving the bolt in the action to prevent crushing!)

When a proper wrench with a 4 foot handle fails, it's time for a more civilized approach.

action wrench by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr

Nice welding sandals!

They look just like mine!

quote:

Originally posted by kendog:

Nice welding sandals!

I'm not saying Canadians are tough Ken. After all, we can't drink our beer warm and we can't drink our whiskey cold. Well, unless there is nothing to drink but warm beer and cold whiskey. But yeah, we wear T shirts and shorts until December and our moms shave their legs with blow torches so, yeah, I guess we can be pretty badass sometimes.