Hello all,

Is their any way of blocking porting be it using grub screws, or a sheath over end of the Barrel?
Sounds dangerous, but there must be something someone has tried?

Sorry guys,

I just did a search on blocking porting and realise Id asked the same question a couple of months ago, sorry for wasting your time...

It is not just a waste of time to find ways to block the porting; it can be hazardous to do so, not to mention accuracy might be affected. Why not have that sucker cut off and be done with it? Good luck!

Choppa,

A hacksaw seems to work pretty good...

There is a lot of action happening at the muzzle as the bullet exits, the last thing you would want is schrapnel flying through in the air.

Malm

What is this??? all these warnings??? not so!

Jim Brockman has been making a muzzle brake for years that a simple twist of the brake will close it, and it does not change the zero. It is called the Quit Brake....

So it can be done. now on a ported barrel it would take some thought and a bunch of cash, but it can be done, applying the same principle...

Probably the better solution is a hacksaw job an recrown.

It doesn't change the zero? hah i will believe that when i see it.

Fella's

I thought about the chop, but.....my barrel is already 18" long and if I remove the porting I
will lose a further 2", will this affect performance in the field, what do you reckon, its a Marlin Guide Gun 1895M, by the way, Ray, Migo, what do you reckon?
Thanks

The two inch difference in barrel length will be insignificant in terms of velocity loss. If you are concering about velocity penalty, then you should not have bought the Guide Gun in the first place. The 2002 model guide gun does not have any porting so you may want to trade your rifle in for a newer one. I also have a guide gun by the way but my rifle has been turned into a 50 Alaskan. Good luck!

[ 11-25-2002, 07:21: Message edited by: Mingo ]

When I hear someone say their weapons point of impact will not change by either installing or removing the muzzle brake from the weapon, or closed off as in a previous post, I have to pinch myself to see if I am awake. If the muzzle brake or the ports are doing their job, the point of impact damn well better change or I wan't my money back.

If that muzzle brake isn't working correctly, then I might be able to see how the point of impact may not change and I'll want my money back. I see people at the range prior to the hunting season sighting in their weapons with the muzzle brakes in place while sitting at the bench only to watch them remove the brake and install the threaded sleeve prior to hiting the field, fully expecting that their rifles point of impact hasn't changed.

I've been building muzzle brakes for 22 years and if my muzzle brake doesn't stop muzzle rise to the point of forcing the shooter to make serious elevation changes in his scopes settings, then I have failed to give the customer what they have paid for, effective muzzle control...

Choppa, I don't know how to advise you with your problem. Having an 18" barrel on a lever action with all the barrel mounted hardware might financially complicate things a bit. Good luck though.

Malm

Just go ahead and put in the screws. I take it these are the little hex or slot screws you would use for securing a key? Would work fine. That is of course you want to do all the tapping, it would only take an afternoon though and some elbow grease. Costs less than having the recrown done or a gunsmith blocking off the ports.

Roger---

Would you care to speculate on the velocity of one of those screws when the threads become gas cut enough to turn loose? And they're pointed backwards, right?

I've seen the results of sight screws that were drilled all the way through......

Scares me .........and I'm a fearless man!!

A sleeve could be silver soldered over the ports, but accuracy is likely to suffer. It would be cheaper to buy a take-off barrel that isn't ported.