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Sandpaper preference
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I have a question for the stock makers and stock refinishers out there. As I'm working on my first newly stocked rifle and about to complete the shaping, I'd like to hear about your experiences with sandpaper types.

In the past I've generally used wet-or-dry paper for my refinishing tasks, both ding removal and wet sanding. But for dry sanding, this type of paper clogs pretty quickly and stops cutting.

For dry sanding specifically, am I better off with another type of paper? Maybe Aluminium Oxide or just stick with wet-or-dry or some other?

Thanks,
Brian
 
Posts: 306 | Location: Originally from Texas | Registered: 17 March 2001Reply With Quote
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"sandblaster" by 3M for dry sanding & "wet or dry" by 3M for wet sanding.



Doug Humbarger
NRA Life member
Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73.
Yankee Station

Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo.
 
Posts: 8350 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Don't know the brand, but some toilet paper my wife bought on sale a couple of years ago feels like it would do the trick. I think it was a production overrun of an order from the Louisiana State Prison System. Frowner
 
Posts: 13243 | Location: Henly, TX, USA | Registered: 04 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Tough act to follow!

I use the better grade Norton at the box store for dry sanding bare wood. I tried wet sanding with water for the first time and like the way it doesn't wash out the pores after you fill them like more finish does. Looks like hell between coats but that goes away when you get to the final finish. Standard 3M wet or dry was made to work with water so no problemo. In fact, I think it lasts longer.


"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
 
Posts: 11141 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Go to an automotive paint supply house and look at the 3M Tan colored paper on rolls. It comes in 100 to 400 grit and is adhesive backed so it will stick to your sanding blocks. It cuts wood and metal equally well and if you blow it off with an airgun it lasts longer than anything else you likely have tried.
Buying a set of rolls from 100 to 400 is expensive, but you won't have to buy any more woodworking sandpaper for the next 10 or 20 years. It is far superior to any other type of medium grit sandpaper I've tried in woodwork or metal work. Just folding a length off and sticking it do whatever block or dowel you are sanding with will spoil you.
For the finer grades 600-2500 the 3M black stuff works as well as any, but there are other manufactures that make stuff just as good.........DJ


....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!..................
 
Posts: 3976 | Location: Oklahoma,USA | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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If you are just doing a refinish job, you don't need IMO to go below 220 - 300 grit.

I usually tak my stocks out to about 400 grit, makes a nice smooth finish with an oil finish.

If you are going to be doing some fairly intense reshaping, I found some paper at Home Depot about a year or so ago called "3X" 60 grit by Norton. It cuts extremely fast and smooth.

Also, no-clog paper is much nicer to use on wood as opposed to garnet which I find leaves longer, slightly deeper scratches. The no-clog cuts a bit smoother and does not clog.

-Spencer

-Spencer
 
Posts: 1319 | Registered: 11 July 2003Reply With Quote
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