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Rust Blue Questions, Need Advise
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Hi All,

I have a project near completion and would like to re-fresh the bluing. I am fairly sure it is rust blued, question is do I need to remove the existing blue or can I rust blue over it?

Thanks.
 
Posts: 143 | Location: Chula Vista, California, USA | Registered: 05 February 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Elalto:
Hi All,

I have a project near completion and would like to re-fresh the bluing. I am fairly sure it is rust blued, question is do I need to remove the existing blue or can I rust blue over it?

Thanks.


Yes, you can rust blue over it.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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True,
Contact Bobster; he even makes the solution.
 
Posts: 17443 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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You can rust blue over regular hot blue as well. But as with any finishing process, the final result depends on the preparation. To get a perfect finish, ALL pitting must be removed, the surface must be perfectly smooth and evenly textured, and COMPLETELY free of oil. Your existing rust blue absorbs oil, unlike hot blue. That's why it works so well.


Russ Gould - Whitworth Arms LLC
BigfiveHQ.com, Large Calibers and African Safaris
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Posts: 2935 | Location: Texas | Registered: 07 June 2003Reply With Quote
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As all have pointed out you can rust blue right over the existing rust blue. After several passes the textures will blend seamlessly. Allow the new blued surface to cure under mineral oil for a couple of days. And if you want a super rust resistant finish degrease and seal with an oil modified polyurethane, tung oil, or even boiled linseed oil. Wipe or spray on, then immediately wipe off with dry paper towels until none remains on the surface. This will fill and cure in the tiny metal oxide pores. Thus preventing moisture from penetrating.

Bob
www.rustblue.com
 
Posts: 3873 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I use the same oil as I use on stocks; Pro Custom oil; a mixture of tung and poly.
 
Posts: 17443 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Do you apply this oil immediately after you finish the bluing process or do you soak the metal in water displacing oil first?
quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
I use the same oil as I use on stocks; Pro Custom oil; a mixture of tung and poly.
 
Posts: 600 | Location: Weathersfield, VT | Registered: 22 January 2017Reply With Quote
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Apply oil after the final carding, no need for a water displacing oil.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Good to know. Thanks!
quote:
Originally posted by craigster:
I apply oil after the final carding, no need for a water displacing oil.
 
Posts: 600 | Location: Weathersfield, VT | Registered: 22 January 2017Reply With Quote
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Right; what he said. There is no water to displace; you do all the work on the metal when it is dry, which it will be after you remove it from the steaming tube, or water tank. I prefer steaming; go to Bobsters web site and see it. Much more efficient than boiling water. Of course you have to boil water, just one quart instead of 4 gallons.
 
Posts: 17443 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Not wishing to hijack this thread, but similar questions in the same vein. I have a Remington SPS Varmint that I am restocking with a good piece of walnut. The base rifle is pretty new and has the matt type blue from the factory. I do want to give it a nice rust blue so as to match the walnut. What can I remove the existing bluing with - can you remove it chemically, or is it a question of polishing it off. What grit should I start with - 220, then ending up with 320, or do I go a 600?

Or do I just blue over the top of the existing Blue.
 
Posts: 987 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Heym SR20:
Not wishing to hijack this thread, but similar questions in the same vein. I have a Remington SPS Varmint that I am restocking with a good piece of walnut. The base rifle is pretty new and has the matt type blue from the factory. I do want to give it a nice rust blue so as to match the walnut. What can I remove the existing bluing with - can you remove it chemically, or is it a question of polishing it off. What grit should I start with - 220, then ending up with 320, or do I go a 600?

Or do I just blue over the top of the existing Blue.
I start by draw filing with a mill bastard......


 
Posts: 719 | Location: fly over America, also known as Oklahoma | Registered: 02 June 2013Reply With Quote
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Bead blast it off and Rustblue. Factory guns are sand blasted. Glass Bead blasting gives a less coarse finish. If you want shinier shoeshine the blue off with 180 then 320 grit and then blue.

Bob
www.rustblue.com
 
Posts: 3873 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Any phosphoric acid rust remover will take the blue off. Naval jelly is a common one. If I recall, molasses will do it too.

The abrasive methods have been covered.

Jeremy
 
Posts: 1484 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 28 January 2011Reply With Quote
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