What would be the cause of a Remington 141 ( pump) only fireing if you pull the trigger but also push hard forward on the forend? This can act like a hangfire sometimes as it is possible to pull the trigger without the firearm fireing, but when you push forward on the slide it will fire most times? Is there a fix?

Sounds like the action is not completely closing initially.

Try disassembling and cleaning thoroughly.

The disconnector(?) part which prevents firing unless the action is fully closed is not going into position. Could be wear, most likely could be dirt.

I have a 141; those rifles have no disconnector so you can hold the trigger down and pump, and it will fire. As stated, the cam on the slide bar is either worn or dirty; most likely worn. Fix is to study the parts carefully and file in the right place. As stated, clean it well; they take down easily with that screw on the side of the frame, as you probably know.

Thanks for the replies. Will give a good cleaning. If that does not work, will do a little more digging on the lines of "worn parts". Thanks again.

If I remember correctly on the 141 the action needs to be completely closed/locked up before the hammer will drop.

So Exit 31, I would think that for some reason you are not working the action hard enough. This could be caused by reloads not resized enough, or bullets seated out too long, a dirty chamber, worn parts,or just not going forward with the pump motion hard enough.

The rifle is working as it should.
Not firing with the slide/bolt unlocked,,but firing when the slide is pulled forward the last little bit locking the bolt.

The hammer is disconnected from the sear until the bolt is locked into the receiver roof.

At that point the sear is again disengaged if the trigger was already being pulled.
Same 'slam fire' effect as in the Winchester M12, M42, Ithaca 37, and others,,though the term is actually incorrect for what is happening it's what most people will understand.

Check to see if your problem exists when using the rifle in dry fire mode.,,No Ammo...
This will see if the ammunition or something in the chamber or it's spec is making for difficult chambering of the round.
14s and 141s need not be babied in their cycling but they should close and lock w/o any un-necessary extra effort in the final motion.

Also open the action and check the locking cut surface in the roof of the recv'r/frame.
Sometimes it gets packed with dirt and crud from use and cycling making for a rough time closing the action on the final motion.
The cut out is in the inside top of the recv'r right in back of the chamber. The locking bolt itself is a machined surface made right on the breech bolt.
Also check the cut for any damage, burrs, ect from battering.
Anything that may impede the bolt dropping smoothly & completely into it's locking cut.

On a simple field strip, remove the bolt and check the cam cut where the action bar engages. Clean it off and make sure no damage appear there.
The like engagement surface on the slide action bar itself you'll be able to see with the bolt removed. Check that over too.
Slide action bar is the solid part of the mag assembly where the loading port is located. Spiral mag tube assembles into the front of that.

Removing the bar takes more than just a simple field stripping tecnique if it needs repair. But you can check most all things out w/o getting to that point first.

Other small things,,make sure the forend wood is tight and secure to the slide action bar.
The small screws on each side get loose. Sometimes are replacements and don't fit well. The wood shucks back and forth a bit in use and you aren't closing the action fully, but it feels like you are.

Make sure the mag tube and slide bar assembly slide freely back and forth.
The magazine ring under the bbl in the front sometimes gets turned and jambs up the motion enough to slow things down making the action difficult to work. The ring is not dovetailed into the bbl,,it is set down and turned 90 degrees into it's dovetail. Doesn't matter clockwise or counter CW. Just see if it's loose or not. It shouldn't be.

Just a few things to look for on the 14/141.

Not true; you should not have to push the forearm forward for it to fire. It should fire even it you aren't holding the forearm. Only on worn ones. Your comment that they should close, lock, without any any unnecessary extra effort in the final motion, should include, "and FIRE".

By my saying it's working as it should, it means it only fires with the forend all the way forward.
That's when the bolt drops into the locking slot.

The forend needs no manual assist to be held in position forward or otherwise during firing. No different than any other pumpaction.
When the action is closed & the bolt actually locked the forend will not move w/o either firing the gun or pushing in slide release latch. It's locked in position period.

If you happen to have the trigger pulled all the way through the slide closing sequence it won't fire until the forend is pulled shut as he's finding out,,and the bolt is dropping into the locked position.

The problem is any hard or stubborn closing on the final forward motion of the slide (and bolt).
Thats making him unknowingly leaving the action unlocked slightly.

That it won't fire in that unlocked position means it is operating correctly as far as that aspect is concerned.
Now he has to find out why the action is not sliding closed easily that last final fraction of slide motion.

I offered some possibilitys for that problem.

Yep, all true.

Read all about it from the M14 Guru. I have the same problem on a nice M14.

M14 locks up but won't fire.



Usually part # 60, the sear lock is worn.

M14 Disassembly